I recently have been playing these Bridgestone balls. I have tried both the E6 and the 330-S. For me the 330-S spun too much and i will be trying the 330 next. But for the E6 i was not able to get a whole lot of backspin on the ball. Not to say that it ran out a lot, but it didn't back up for me even on full wedge shots. What i found is that the ball will hit and stop or hit and release a little (probably about 2-3 paces or so forward from the initial landing point down to about my 4i). If i
don't love the feel of the 330 then i will be putting the e6 in my bag.

Both balls averaged 85.5 MPH clubhead speed, and had draw spin, which is how I was set up at address.
- E6 marginally higher on launch angle and ball velocity w/ +13 yds. carry
- Ideal sidespin = 2654; Gamer had +100 RPM backspin, E6 had -500 backspin. Gamer actually had -135 side spin compared to -165 for E6.

What does the "below ideal" backspin for the E6 mean in overall scheme of thing?

E6 billed as lower compression soft-feel distance ball. Will have to test out and see if E6 will check up some on partial wedge shots, or hit and run 30 feet past the pin. I have trouble with "distance balls" on half wedges more so than full iron approaches.

I'm currently playing the 2011 RX. What should I expect to see in the 2012 version?

With a wedge you don't care as much about compressing the core. It's more of a glancing blow (due to the loft), and you only want to send the ball 100 yards or so anyway.

With a driver you will compress the golf ball farther into the core. Not only is the blow more square (less loft) but you can swing a driver much faster than a sand wedge (lighter club, longer shaft).

Manufacturers are talking only about driver clubhead speed when they give out numbers like 105 MPH. That doesn't mean if you swing 108 with a driver but less than 105 with every other club you have to choose a ball for < 105. It means the ball engineers realize that you swing slower with shorter clubs, so they engineer the layers you do compress - the outer layers - with the shorter clubs to react properly to carry far enough with the right levels of spin.

Thanks for asking that question. I've wondered about that for a while as well. It seems that ball fitting, club fitting and shaft fitting all seem to focus on the swing speed of the driver. I know I'm not swinging my 7 iron (and certainly not my SW) anywhere near my measured 105mph driver speed . Makes me wonder if we shouldn't have different shaft flexes throughout our entire set???

Odd that we pay so much attention to a club we only hit twelve or thirteen times a round!

According to the Titleist website: Titleist golf balls are made in the U.S.

Enuff said!