or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by umpiremark

I use the line on the ball exclusively. I also have one of those plastic dealies that came with my bag where you draw the long line down the equator and two perpendicular lines on the sides. I just started using that and I like that, because lining up the perpendicular lines insures my ball is lined up straight. I'm an engineer, so I think like an engineer!! If I set up the line with my intended target/line of putt, it's one less thing I have to think about standing over...
This is probably on here a bazillion times, but I'm too lazy to look, so I'll start (perhaps) another thread on this subject. I'm hoping that someone with club building knowledge or shaft changes experience can guide me down the path, here. I build my own clubs; I am 54, about an 12 or 14 handicap. I built a driver to D0, 44-3/8" long, 65 g Aldila NV shaft, regular flex. The NV shaft has a high bend, low kick point, torque (I belive) is 3.5 degrees. The 460 cc head at...
Who knows Pebble better than Jack and Tom Watson ... definately Nicklaus and Watson ...
My shanks were caused by my leaning back away from the ball at impact ... open face, clubhead now shifted too close to the ball, shanker-rooney ... just make sure you're sliding forward and finishing down the line.
Are you blading the ball because you're too far behind it and hitting the equator after a fat bounce shot, or just blading the equator on the intial shot? If the former, focus your eye on the very front of the ball (towards the target) and on the latter, are you standing up before you're through the shot? The face of the club should be pointing to the sky when you're done with these tiny shots and all arms, not hands. Rotate through the shot, too.
I'm going to take a shot here and ask (guess) if the 4 goes more right than the 7-iron? I mean, progressively downward in club, are you less off target? If yes, I'm going to say that somehow you're getting too inside to out with the clubface open on these mid-irons. Why do I say that? Because I've been blocking my irons right and am fighting the same inside move. The guy above is right; you (and me) are trying to 'help' it into the air instead of starting on plane and...
One of the biggest reasons for an over-the-top downswing, is the "swing the door shut" swing. In other words, if you slam a door shut, the top, bottom, handle, lock all move at the same time, the same plane and get there at the same time. However you get to/near/at the top, if your next move down to "hit the ball" includes shoulders, hands, arms, neck, knees, hips ... all moving towards the intended target at the same time ... WHAM, door slammed shut. The golf swing is...
Like the best "fluff lie" on the fairway ... just that the bottom of the ball is carressing the tops of the grass.
My guess is you paid close to $499 for this new, off the shelf club. Did you know that before the advent of graphite shafts, the average men's driver length was 43.5"? Did you also know that the average driver shaft on the PGA tour is 44.5" - a full half to one inch shorter than clubs sold to the average Joe in golf stores? A shaft that is too long for one's swing results in more mis-hits and off-center hits, resulting in less yardage - not the "longer" club the sales guy...
Please don't do any of these three. Good ball flight is a direct result of a good swing that puts a square clubface in the same exact position as it was at address. Pure, yes ... but not simple. Strengthening your grip? over rotate your forearms? Please no. I am a 14-15 handicap and fight a push (straight right) and push fade (starts right but goes even farther right) all the time. Here's what corrects it for me, when I go back to basics. The back swing is initiated by...
New Posts  All Forums: