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Posts by dbwood

Just some food for thought: Not sure how to post you tube links so if this doesn't work it's a Roy Nix clip called "Driver Fitting School - How weight is used in fitting".
 Many private, and some public course have that rule.  Often the same clubs will have a rule about wearing your hat forwards and keeping your shirt tucked in.Not much bothers me on the golf course, although I'm really disappointed when I have a good round going and out of nowhere I shank a 15 yard chip.
No offense, but you've been playing golf 4 months and you know who is supposed to be playing what equipment?
Cutting it down 3/4" will make it feel somewhat lighter, not a crazy difference but you'll probably feel it.  The secret grip with the 17 gram disk in it, (which is the way it is usually supplied) will weigh 107 grams, so that's adding 57 gm  to the club over the stock grip weight.  The club will then feel heavier, but it will also move the balance point quite a ways up towards the grip.  So it will have a considerably different feel than stock. A friend of mine did...
There's an easier way. http://www.tutelman.com/golf/design/swingwt4.php#sw_scale It's quite accurate.
Bang, Geek, and SMT all make 6* and lower loft driver heads.  All 3 are high quality, they're not cheap, but they're not too high priced either.
I stand at least partially corrected, from Nike Golf:   "Different elements of each club come from different parts of the world. The heads are forged in Thailand, China and Japan. The shafts are made in the United States, Japan and China. The grips are made in the U.S., China, and Taiwan. Everything is assembled in plants in the U.S., Japan, and China."   Regardless of it's country of origin, it will be built to proper spec and subject to Nike QC.  Nike clubs always...
Nike's forged stuff is made in China and Thailand, and it's very good quality.
OK, I was just speculating on a mechanical factor that might explain the smash factor and spin numbers at the same time.  But that throws that out.   Assuming a positive or neutral AoA and near center contact, then I would try a stiffer tip shaft as others have suggested.  I don't know what shafts and heads you have access to, but I think it shouldn't be too hard to find a combination that would give you better numbers than that.
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