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Posts by Stuffs

I didn't get to compare them side by side with the MP69, but these do appear smaller.  A delight to hit up to the 5 iron.  I wasn't striking them too well when I picked up the 4 iron to demo though.
I recently took the plunge and reshafted my clubs with the i95 on my 4-9 but with the i110 on the PW, all in Stiff flex.  I've been playing the HLS75 and really liked the results so I finally decided to spend the money on these. I've stuck with DGS300 since the late 90s so all my comparisons will be with that. Reshaft is straight in, tapered set, same length as the steel was (5i @ 37.75").  My steel set was all at D2 with the PW at D5.  I was aiming to make them all...
I found the Anser hybrids already on the lower launching side compared to other hybrids.  The 913HD or 713U are the only two I can think of that launches on the lower side than the Anser.  Its tough when facing the wind regardless of clubs though.    What degrees is your current Anser and what distance is that club for you?
You mentioned you hit the Cobra AMP well so I would start there.  Its a very good club actually.  Its the same one my fiancé uses and I would hit it sometimes at the range, and honestly, I wouldn't mind playing that club myself. If I had to choose one ladies driver to play, that would be it.   1. Similar to the Adams...maybe start with Taylor Made clubs since they are under the same company.      2. No, your fairways and hybrids do not have to necessarily match. ...
Too many factors to limit to just one or two clubs to chip.  So its anything from my 58 to a 9 iron.  But I do try to keep my chipping stroke as simple and consistent as possible (one short and one medium backswing) and just rely on the club to determine carry and roll. But how the lie is, breaks or slopes on green,..etc, using one club would mean too many variances on my chipping stroke.   For pitching though, 95% of the time its with my 58 and I would vary the...
Not much. Pretty straight forward from there.
Ah, that part.  Not too big of a deal.  Its good practice to do so but if you forgot, it should be fine.  Once its in there, the epoxy pretty much engulfs that area so any ragged edges will stay that way and shouldn't get worse.
For the tip, you do need to prep it if that's what you were referring to.  Otherwise there will not be a very good bond between the head and the shaft.  Its a very crucial step.  All you have to do is lightly sand the insertion area until the clearcoat and paint is gone.  I usually start with a 230 grit sand paper to remove the clear coat, then 400 grit to remove the paint.  Once its all black, a spray with rubbing alcohol to clean it and its ready to go.  Be very...
I do agree that bounce has a lot less to do with skulling a shot than most think.  To me at least, its what looks comfortable at address.  When it comes to my SW and LW, I do prefer less bounce. I do vary the openness of the face quite a bit.  With less bounce, when I open it up, the leading edge doesn't look as high off the ground vs a higher bounced wedge would look.  When its high off the ground, my mind tends to think, "oo its gonna be tough getting the club...
Yes, bobtrumpet brought up a very important point with rotating the shaft.   As with blade brands, Lenox isn't bad for the price at all.   
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