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Posts by Mathwiz

I use three items. 1.A soft bristled tooth brush (the one I didn't throw away when I replaced it) 2. A spray bottle of Windex (the blue stuff) 3. A microfiber towel. Spray the face of the club, brush the grooves, wipe with the microfiber. Then spray a shot on the shaft above the head, wrap the microfiber around it, slide the microfiber the length of the shaft and back down then put it in the bag. It simply doesn't get any easier or better than this.
I can tell you about the one I just bought, but can't tell you how it performs because I haven't had a opportunity to use it yet. It is the Kangaroo Hillcrest Max. It is electric and remote controlled or manually controlled. It was rated as a solid performer with a excellent track record as far as requiring little to no maintenance over a long period of time. The term I read more than once was "built like a tank". I'm hoping for the best.
OP, with those distance numbers, why don't you hit a stiff shaft?
When you cut the shaft at the butt end, it moves the fulcrum point on the scale closer to the head of the club since you slide the "new" cut end to the reference point on the scale where you butt the end of the shaft. That is why the head end of the club actually has a "lighter" feel to it.
If you buy new from a retailer there will not be extensions on the shafts. They will cut the butt end to specified length during assembly. I had a set of irons that I bought direct from Mizuno that were standard length. At a later time I was fitted for another set of irons and the fitting determined I needed +1/2" on my shaft lengths. Since I still liked playing the Mizunos occasionally, I bought some shaft extenders from Golfsmith and put them on the Mizunos. They played...
There could be issues if the lies need to be adjusted. I'm not sure Ping would attempt to bend them considering the age of the clubs. At the very least I believe you would have to sign a release form. 17-4 stainless steel at 25 years can be quite brittle.
Callaway upro mx+?
I hope you post your results after getting the i20's back and play with them. The reason I am so interested is because I have a set of i20's green dot that I was fitted with off a lie board at Edwin Watts, and I also have a set of G20's black dot that I traded a set of Mizuno's for recently. I hit the I's last summer and didn't have the results I hoped for. I got the G's over the winter and played them a few times and had better scores with them. I'm not convinced that...
I'm gaming a Titleist 910 D2. When I bought it there was a reg flex MFT Diamana kali in it that I knew I would not hit. I put a Titleist adapter in a Fuji Motore Speeder VC 7.1 stiff flex and took it to the range. It was Playing 45.25 and I wasn't catching it dead center, so I cut it down to 44.5 and a D5 SW. I hit it much more flush now. There is no doubt, that when someone finds that perfect length, they hit it much more consistently in the center of the face. At least...
I bought a  used Titleist 910 D2 that had a R flex MFT Diamana ka'ali in it at stock length. Didn't mind the R flex because my plan was to put a Fuji Motore Speeder VC 7.1 stiff in it. (I could buy the entire club for less than I could buy the head only).   I also bought a used Titleist 910 F 15* 3 wood that had a S flex MFT Diamana ka'ali in it at stock length.   Well, the Fuji didn't pan out for the D2 head so just for kicks, I put the 3 wood shaft in the D2. I...
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