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How low is the ball flight of the DG R300's?


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Hi,

I am looking forward to upgrade irons, probably to a set of MP-57's.

I am a bit concerned about the ball flight of the DG R300's. Is it too low?

I hit it medium right now with my chinese $70 irons, but don't want to lower my trajectory.


Any comments?

Blade Stand Bag
905R 11.5 R flex
Tight Lies 3 Wood
Ci7 Irons 4-GW R Flex
Vokey SM Wedges 54 / 58Classic Putter #1 34"ProV1 or U-Tri Tour or E5+

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I never liked DGs at all. But every set I ever hit were stiffs. They felt boardy and actually hurt my hands sometimes. I found a set of irons with DG R300s and I really like them. You can hit them high or low if you can control your trajectory and I'd say the overall average is about a mid trajectory. The feel is much much softer than than a Stiff DG. Just my experience though.
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Thanks,


your answer gives me some room to try them. I am thinking of going with mp-60's of ebay, the problem is most come with s300 so I will have to wait for a good set.

I just wanted to hear that just because they are high kickpoint that I won't be hitting it waist high every time.

Blade Stand Bag
905R 11.5 R flex
Tight Lies 3 Wood
Ci7 Irons 4-GW R Flex
Vokey SM Wedges 54 / 58Classic Putter #1 34"ProV1 or U-Tri Tour or E5+

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I have the 57's in R300 and love them. The ball flight isn't low at all, at least not for me. I'd say it's mid. I can hit it low, or really high if I want to though...

It's a really nice shaft.

Driver Ping G10 10.5*
Hybrids Ping G5 (3) 19* Bridgestone J36 (4) 22*
Irons Mizuno MP-57 5-PW
Wedges Srixon WG-504 52.08 Bridgestone WC Copper 56.13
Putter 33" Scotty Cameron Studio Select #2

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I have the DG SL's, S300 flex and my shafts are +1/2". They feel great in conjunction to my clubheads when hit perfectly. The ball flight i would say is perfect.
R7 Superquad 10.5* REAX regular flex shaft
FT 5 wood
675XC forged irons 3-PW, True Temper DG SL stiff(S300) shafts
55* BeCu sandwedge
e6+ balls or ProV1
Cougar X-cat putter (odyssey 2-ball rip-off)
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project X in mp 60's are awesome
DJ Yoshi
Official DJ: Rutgers Football
Boost Mobile Tour
In My Bag
HiBoreXL 9.5 White Board D63 Stiff Exotics CB2 5 Wood, Exotics CB3 3 Wood MP-60 5.5 Flighted Shafts 54 & Cleveland CG-10 60 Newport 2
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I found the Project X's to produce a low ball flight. I went with the DG S300 shaft in my MP-57's and I get a nice mid/high ball flight.

Driver: MP-600 9.5 w/ Fujikura E360 Stiff Shaft
4 Wood: F-60 16.5 w/ Exsar FS3 Stiff Shaft
Irons:MP-57 3-PW w/ Dynamic Gold S300 Shafts
Wedges: MP-R Black-Ni 52, 56, & 60
Putter: Studio Select Newport 2Ball: ProV1/ProV1xGrips: Winn Xi7

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I think I am set on the MP-60's with DG R300.


UNLESS I see a set with DG lite R300, which I think would best suit me.

I will report back when I hit my set. Thanks guys.

Blade Stand Bag
905R 11.5 R flex
Tight Lies 3 Wood
Ci7 Irons 4-GW R Flex
Vokey SM Wedges 54 / 58Classic Putter #1 34"ProV1 or U-Tri Tour or E5+

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I think I am set on the MP-60's with DG R300.

I know this is difficult for people to grasp because of how well marketing affects the consumer pysche but, you can get exactly what you want and spend half the dough if you don't go with a namebrand club.

Such as these the golfsmith brand snake eyes forged muscle back iron heads which have near identical specs as the MP-60s: http://www.golfsmith.com/products/SE...ged_Iron_Head# which can then be combined with whatever shaft you want in the world, with whatever length, with whatever lie angle, with whatever grip. It really doesn't get much better than that. It was hard for me to come to grips with buying non-namebrand iron clubheads, but I assure you there is no-difference in feel and playability AT ALL. And to top it off, i have $400 extra bucks in my pocket for not going with MP-57s. Just a FYI, that's all.
R7 Superquad 10.5* REAX regular flex shaft
FT 5 wood
675XC forged irons 3-PW, True Temper DG SL stiff(S300) shafts
55* BeCu sandwedge
e6+ balls or ProV1
Cougar X-cat putter (odyssey 2-ball rip-off)
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Thanks for the tip, but I was talking about buying used so around $300 tops.

The snake eyes may be good, but they will run around $85 per iron so not that much of a bargain!

Blade Stand Bag
905R 11.5 R flex
Tight Lies 3 Wood
Ci7 Irons 4-GW R Flex
Vokey SM Wedges 54 / 58Classic Putter #1 34"ProV1 or U-Tri Tour or E5+

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Thanks for the tip, but I was talking about buying used so around $300 tops.

oops, sorry didn't realize you were buying used.

However, you're missing the point of getting your own parts. You don't buy them pre-assembled. Get all the parts, and either you build them, or have someone build them for you. I had golfsmith build them for me. The preassembled clubs come with predetermined shafts and grips, which defeats the purpose. Golfsmith charges $22/club to assemble, which is a rip-off, but if you have negotiating abilities you don't pay anything near that. Knowing that the Golfsmith builder only makes 5% commision on $22/club, which for a 3-PW set is (8 clubs x $22/club) x 5% commision = a whopping $8.80 in his/her pocket, is pathetic. Offer him a few extra bucks in cash under the table and he will be happy to not charge you the "golfsmith" rate and build them for you. I gave my builder $40 bucks, which is is $5/club for 3-PW set, and he was more than happy to not charge me the "golfsmith rate" of $22/club. Even then, you have more options than golfsmith for assembly. So lets redo the math. All prices taken from www.golfsmith.com: 32.99 -clubhead 10.49 -TT DG R300 shaft 7.49 -Golfpride MCC grip (their most expensive one) 5.00 -for assembly ----------- = 55.97 subtotal + 8.625% sales tax (where i live) ----------- = 60.78 Assuming you're getting a 3-PW set: 60.78 x 8 = $486.38 You cannot get a brand new forged iron set for anywhere near that price with the length you want, shaft you want, and grips you want. Just saying ;)
R7 Superquad 10.5* REAX regular flex shaft
FT 5 wood
675XC forged irons 3-PW, True Temper DG SL stiff(S300) shafts
55* BeCu sandwedge
e6+ balls or ProV1
Cougar X-cat putter (odyssey 2-ball rip-off)
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oops, sorry didn't realize you were buying used.

And unless you plan on playing them for the rest of your life, they will have a resale value of about $100. Most major companies will build to your specs at basically no to very little extra charge. And most offer True Temper DG whatever the flex as stock. If you buy brand new forgings at $800 you also know that the heads will swing the same. Not everyone who can assemble a club can or will swingweight them correctly, check the loft and lies, fit the flex correctly. And then there is for lack of better words, the sex appeal of the club as well as the respect factor. But most importantly the confidence factor. Seems like a lot to give up for $300.

Keep looking for the DG R300s, most companies build players irons on the assumption that the buyer will have either a big swing speed or a big ego. In fact from my experience, used player's irons with regular flex sell for a bit less because of the factor mentioned above. They often get passed over on the used market because most potential buyers are put off by the regular flex shafts.
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And unless you plan on playing them for the rest of your life, they will have a resale value of about $100. Most major companies will build to your specs at basically no to very little extra charge. And most offer True Temper DG whatever the flex as stock. If you buy brand new forgings at $800 you also know that the heads will swing the same. Not everyone who can assemble a club can or will swingweight them correctly, check the loft and lies, fit the flex correctly. And then there is for lack of better words, the sex appeal of the club as well as the respect factor. But most importantly the confidence factor. Seems like a lot to give up for $300.

Have a resale value of $100? why don't you exaggerate a little more. Well informed people understand the process in how they were built and the material used is what matters most. There are plenty of people who appreciate component clubs and don't have to look for respect and sex appeal (sex appeal? ha!) through...brand name golf clubs?! Please, you sound like a Paris Hilton for golf.

A certified builder will know how to swingweight properly, plus the clubheads come with default weight settings out of the box and are incrementedly correctly as is, so it's not rocket science. And trust me, i'm 110% confident that my clubs are just as good, if not better than $900 Mizunos.
R7 Superquad 10.5* REAX regular flex shaft
FT 5 wood
675XC forged irons 3-PW, True Temper DG SL stiff(S300) shafts
55* BeCu sandwedge
e6+ balls or ProV1
Cougar X-cat putter (odyssey 2-ball rip-off)
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I know the Snake Eye's are of high quality. I still wouldn't pay more than $100 for used set. The market is what it is. Is a BMW 4 door compact that much better than a Honda 4 door compact? No, it isn't in reality. Both get you where you need to go the same. Which one has a higher resale value?

That being said, if you are really worried about resale value, then you probably should find another hobby. B/c in 6 months you will be eye balling another set of "magic" sticks and will lose all rational thought and buy them. This will of course be after you have bought 2 putters and 3 drivers in the same 6 month period.

Buy what you want. You will probably hit them both virtually the same. Both left and right, and sometimes straight. As a 22hcp, I would be looking for a super game improvement club of whatever brand fits your fancy. You will enjoy golf more.

WITB:
Driver-B'stone J33R 9.5* Pro Force V2 65S 44.5"
3w/5w-B'stone J33R 15-18* NV75 Stiff
3h Ping G10 21* TFC Stiff
irons-Mizuno Pro II w/4-9, MP-T 47 PW, currently have DG S300. X100 Soft Stepped 1x or PX 6.0 are on stand by.GW Mizuno MP-T 53-9* DG R300LW Titleist Vokey SM 58-12* DG Wedge flexT...

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Note: This thread is 5703 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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