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Steel-shafted Drivers?


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I have been struggling with choosing a graphite shaft, I've tried regular, stiff, x-stiff, and several different brands of each. I can't hit good with any of them. I know it has to do with my swing, but today when I took three of my old steel-shafted drivers to try out. I hit each of them impressivly better than any graphite shafted driver I've ever hit. The one that had a stiff shaft seemed to give me the best results (a 90's Dunlop 1 wood around 150cc). The other two had regular shafts but still hit decent. I was wondering if and where I could buy a good driver with a steel shaft? I already looked at Pinemeadow, Diamond Tour, and GigaGolf, and I found some good ones. I also wondered if I could get a name brand club like a Nike or Callaway with a steel-shaft?
Zach

Driver: Hyper X Tour 10.5* Graffalloy Prolaunch Blue Stiff Shaft
Hybrid: Acer Select 5000 16* Ping Cushin Stiff Shaft
Irons: NDS 3-PW (missing #7, replaced with clone) True Temper Uniflex SpeedStep Shaft
Wedges: Acer XK Tour 56*10 Precision Stiff Shaft, Revolution 60*10 True Temper Wedgeflex

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nobody makes them anymore. But when you order a driver, you can get a steel shaft put in. So it would have to be custom made. I wouldnt recommend it in your Driver, its probably best to get graphite. But I dont have much to say, i have steel X100's in my hybrids.
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Obviously a club is heavier with a steel vs. graphite shaft. My guess -without seeing you swing - is that your swing speed and swing tempo is far too fast with a lighter club. The heavier steel shafted club slows your swing down. Swing with your graphite shafted clubs and slow down.
I make all my own clubs:
Driver: Snake Eyes Python XLD | | 3-Wood: Snake Eyes Python XL Faiway, 15*  | | Snake Eyes HT Iron Set, 3-, 4-Utility, 5-, 6-Hybrid, 7-PW Cavity Back | | Golfsmith G-40 Wedges, 52, 56, 60 | | Distance Master DM-AS2 Putter | |Ball? The last one I found ... that... was YOURS!!
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Obviously a club is heavier with a steel vs. graphite shaft. My guess -without seeing you swing - is that your swing speed and swing tempo is far too fast with a lighter club. The heavier steel shafted club slows your swing down. Swing with your graphite shafted clubs and slow down.

Tried that and it still didn't work. I've tried grip changes, stance changes, and other things. Nothing seems to work, except swinging at about 50mph, and having the ball go shorter than my PW.

Driver: Hyper X Tour 10.5* Graffalloy Prolaunch Blue Stiff Shaft
Hybrid: Acer Select 5000 16* Ping Cushin Stiff Shaft
Irons: NDS 3-PW (missing #7, replaced with clone) True Temper Uniflex SpeedStep Shaft
Wedges: Acer XK Tour 56*10 Precision Stiff Shaft, Revolution 60*10 True Temper Wedgeflex

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Titleist still offer steel as a custom shaft option.

In my Tour bag
Driver - Cyberstar (9*), cut to 43.5 inches long with tonnes of lead tape attatched to the head.
Fairway 909F2 (13.5*), Diamana blue 83 shaft, 42 inches long
Rescues Heaven wood (17*)
909h (21*) Diamana blue shaft Irons Pro M (3-PW), Rifle 5.0 shafts Wedges KZG TRS (52* +...

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What are your other clubs like - hitting wise? Do you hit a fairway wood okay? Irons? I mean if you're a 20 hndcp and hitting other clubs fine (straight, far, high, etc.), then the driver problems are more related to swing faults than they are to shaft (weighting) faults.

If - for example - you're hitting irons okay and maybe longer irons and fairway woods semi-okay and driver for sh!t, take a day on the range and groove your swing from 7-iron, 6-iron, 5-iron, 4-iron, fairway wood then driver ... repeating good, on plane swings "up the ladder."

Or, if you hit some irons okay - some not, a fairway metal okay or not and driver stinks, perhaps you're having a problem with clubs that have a high degree of swingweight varience issues, static weight change issues with a poorly matched set? You have a lot of PineMeadow clubs, did you build them yourself?

I do not recommend a steel shafted driver because the weight of the club issues will lead (could lead) to swing problems (flat plane, poor tempo, excessive turn, etc.).
I make all my own clubs:
Driver: Snake Eyes Python XLD | | 3-Wood: Snake Eyes Python XL Faiway, 15*  | | Snake Eyes HT Iron Set, 3-, 4-Utility, 5-, 6-Hybrid, 7-PW Cavity Back | | Golfsmith G-40 Wedges, 52, 56, 60 | | Distance Master DM-AS2 Putter | |Ball? The last one I found ... that... was YOURS!!
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What are your other clubs like - hitting wise? Do you hit a fairway wood okay? Irons? I mean if you're a 20 hndcp and hitting other clubs fine (straight, far, high, etc.), then the driver problems are more related to swing faults than they are to shaft (weighting) faults.

I've done this before with no results.

Or, if you hit some irons okay - some not, a fairway metal okay or not and driver stinks, perhaps you're having a problem with clubs that have a high degree of swingweight varience issues, static weight change issues with a poorly matched set? You have a lot of PineMeadow clubs, did you build them yourself?

No, I bought the Pinemeadow clubs from Dunhams.

Driver: Hyper X Tour 10.5* Graffalloy Prolaunch Blue Stiff Shaft
Hybrid: Acer Select 5000 16* Ping Cushin Stiff Shaft
Irons: NDS 3-PW (missing #7, replaced with clone) True Temper Uniflex SpeedStep Shaft
Wedges: Acer XK Tour 56*10 Precision Stiff Shaft, Revolution 60*10 True Temper Wedgeflex

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I've done this before with no results.

Lessons ... take some before you spend a nickle on any club.

I make all my own clubs:
Driver: Snake Eyes Python XLD | | 3-Wood: Snake Eyes Python XL Faiway, 15*  | | Snake Eyes HT Iron Set, 3-, 4-Utility, 5-, 6-Hybrid, 7-PW Cavity Back | | Golfsmith G-40 Wedges, 52, 56, 60 | | Distance Master DM-AS2 Putter | |Ball? The last one I found ... that... was YOURS!!
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It used to be that graphite shafts were a lot more, "whippy" than graphite, but graphite has come a long way and there is really no advantage anymore to steel shafts in woods.
My advice is to just slow your swing down and focus on tempo. This is yet another example of it being the archer, not the arrow...

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S

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i thought graphite shafts came in different weights? it says on them numbers like 60 65 75 85...i thought that refered to the weight in grams. am I off base?

Yes, and I thought about that. I wondered if I should get a graphite shaft with a heavier weight and a higher kick point.

Driver: Hyper X Tour 10.5* Graffalloy Prolaunch Blue Stiff Shaft
Hybrid: Acer Select 5000 16* Ping Cushin Stiff Shaft
Irons: NDS 3-PW (missing #7, replaced with clone) True Temper Uniflex SpeedStep Shaft
Wedges: Acer XK Tour 56*10 Precision Stiff Shaft, Revolution 60*10 True Temper Wedgeflex

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Yes, and I thought about that. I wondered if I should get a graphite shaft with a heavier weight and a higher kick point.

yes graphite shafts do come in different weights and different torque levels

you never mentioned what is happeneing with your shots? r u slicing it, hooking it, what? you said you just cant "hit them good" if you are slicing the ball bad, you more than likely are using a shaft that is too stong - go weaker if you are hooking it, you more than likely are using a shaft that is too weak - go stronger but this is purely speculation there are a tonne of sites out there, including this one that can explain different shafts and what they offer steel is dead (as far as drivers go anyways) as a 20 hcp, dude you need to spend money on lessons and range time...not a new driver i golfed a fews weeks ago w a rented set (I was at a resort, didnt have my clubs) and they were crap and all regular shaft ( i hit all stiff) still shot close to my hcp w clubs i have never used its not always in the club....sometimes yes.....but a lot of times it's the 6" between your ears and a lack of skill sorry dont mean to be an ass, but hey...it is what it is
"My swing is homemade - but I have perfect flaws!" - Me
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yes graphite shafts do come in different weights and different torque levels

I'm a slicer. I always thought it was the weaker the shaft the more prone it was to cause a slice and vise versa? I wasn't planning on buying a driver, I just was wondering about things. The range around here sucks, you have a hill that is litterally 500 feet high that has a 45 degree incline, and you have to hit uphill from the bottom. The guy who offers lessons around here charges way to much for me, and I'm not going to ask my parents for the money. There is another range about 45 minutes away that offers lessons, but I don't get my license till September. Don't worry about coming off strong, I'd rather have someone tell me how it is than lie to me.

Driver: Hyper X Tour 10.5* Graffalloy Prolaunch Blue Stiff Shaft
Hybrid: Acer Select 5000 16* Ping Cushin Stiff Shaft
Irons: NDS 3-PW (missing #7, replaced with clone) True Temper Uniflex SpeedStep Shaft
Wedges: Acer XK Tour 56*10 Precision Stiff Shaft, Revolution 60*10 True Temper Wedgeflex

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I'm a slicer. I always thought it was the weaker the shaft the more prone it was to cause a slice and vise versa? I wasn't planning on buying a driver, I just was wondering about things. The range around here sucks, you have a hill that is litterally 500 feet high that has a 45 degree incline, and you have to hit uphill from the bottom. The guy who offers lessons around here charges way to much for me, and I'm not going to ask my parents for the money. There is another range about 45 minutes away that offers lessons, but I don't get my license till September.

You're not 15 yet ... you slice, because your swing is probably coming over the top (not an in to out move), you swing too fast and your tempo is screwed up.

What major club companies do to make millions of dollars every year, is bait people into thinking a new club will fix all ills. And so they keep making - and we keep buying - $400 & $500 drivers thinking our slice or hook will go away with the newest fads. And gladly we spend this money on a club we may use 13 or 14 times a round. Changing the flex in a shaft, changing the kick point in a shaft, changing the raw weight of a shaft has LESS to do with the shape of our shots than do the miniscule things we do to be off plane or off tempo in our swings. If you don't have money for lessons and the conditions at the ranges you have to hit at are less than ideal, rent, borrow or buy books on proper swing, proper tempo, etc. and learn the game from any media source you can. A club purchase won't help everything that ails us, as golfers. Look, I'm just trying to help.
I make all my own clubs:
Driver: Snake Eyes Python XLD | | 3-Wood: Snake Eyes Python XL Faiway, 15*  | | Snake Eyes HT Iron Set, 3-, 4-Utility, 5-, 6-Hybrid, 7-PW Cavity Back | | Golfsmith G-40 Wedges, 52, 56, 60 | | Distance Master DM-AS2 Putter | |Ball? The last one I found ... that... was YOURS!!
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You're not 15 yet

Not sure I get what you're trying to say here. Also, I never was going to buy a new driver, I just wondered if you could get one with a steel shaft because I seem to have a nicer shot with a driver with a steel shaft. The only clubs I've ever had problems with slicing are clubs with graphite shafts. I've hit the same hybrid with both a steel and graphite shaft and the one with the steel shaft I was able to hit without a slice, but the one with the graphite sliced like crazy with the same swing and tempo. I've been reading Brian Manzella's articles on how to cure a slice, and the helped a little, and I've read so many other things on swing plane, grips, stances, etc.

Driver: Hyper X Tour 10.5* Graffalloy Prolaunch Blue Stiff Shaft
Hybrid: Acer Select 5000 16* Ping Cushin Stiff Shaft
Irons: NDS 3-PW (missing #7, replaced with clone) True Temper Uniflex SpeedStep Shaft
Wedges: Acer XK Tour 56*10 Precision Stiff Shaft, Revolution 60*10 True Temper Wedgeflex

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Some times I wish they still made drivers with steel shafts, I was using my dad’s Cobra classic (steel head w/ steel shaft) up until about 2-3 years back, then one day at the range the head didn’t want to be part of the shaft anymore and it just ended up in the garage. I replaced it with a used Titleist I have now. I feel I hit them both about the same distance, but I just liked the feel of the Cobra w/ the steel shaft more, plus I’m not a fan of these new HUGE club heads (400+cc).
I have contemplated getting the head rejoined with its shaft, but have just been to lazy to go get it done.
Best of luck with your issues.

In my Stand-Bag

905T D 9.5º
MX 700 3W 15º
AP2 3-PW DCI Oversize+ Black SW 56º 588 LW 60º DF 550 P

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I was at a play it again sports they had a TM R7 driver with project x 6.0 shaft in it. it was pretty short for a driver but it intrigued me enought to swing it a couple times.

Aerolite III bag
MP600 10.5*
F-50 15*
MP57's Project X 5.5 3-PW
CG10 56* RAC 52* 60* 2 Ball putter ProV1/ProV1X Blackberry Storm GolfLogix

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I'm not saying it is not your swing, but I found this year at a demo day that a shaft can have a great influence on your shot.
I was hitting the Nike Dymo and the guy put a stiff flex green Aldila in it...I swear I couldn't do anything but slice that thing. Sure I could have changed my swing and made it work...but why would I do that. He then put in the same shaft in a x-stiff and I hit it a lot better, but it didn't feel great. After seeing me swing with both of those shafts he decided to put in a UST V2 shaft in stiff flex...it was money!
So, what I learned that day, is how much difference there can be between two shafts that are both "stiff". The weight, tip stiffness, etc. can definitely change the way the club performs. Maybe you just need to get a good fitting...and possibly work on that swing a bit more :)

In my Datrek Rage bag:
Driver: Sumo 5000 w/ Aldila VS Proto Stiff
4-Wood: SasQuatch 2 w/ Diamana Stiff
Irons: AP2 4-PW w/ PX 6.0
Wedges: Zodia US Spec 52*, Yururi Gekku 57*, 588 DSG RTG+Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Style 3.5 or Odyssey White Hot Tour #1Ball: ProV1 or whatever I find!

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Note: This thread is 5375 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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