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Tunable Drivers with Adjustable Face Angle ... Huh?


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  • 2 weeks later...

Yea, but is moving a 9.5 to a 9.0 really going to make that much of a difference?


I have been golfing for 1.5 years. I have worked on my driver swing endlessly in that time. Thousands of swings and hundreds of dollars on the range.

I was fitted for a razr fit shortly after I started playing which was really a useless thing to do because I did not know how to swing a golf club.I changed around my settings on the razr and it never made much of a difference. Now in the last couple of months my driver swing has come together, I have taught myself to hit it long and relatively straight. It has become the most reliable club in my bag. I still have some work to do, I think I can still get a few more MPH of head speed but it's a work in progress.                      Now to the point.

After  my driver swing became good and repeatable, when it really started clicking I started launching higher.  The ball started to consistently fly too high and I thought that I was losing some distance so I reduced the loft on my razr fit one degree and it really made a difference in the ball flight.. I went from 11.5 to 10.5 and with that opened the face a degree. opening the face had the effect of giving me a slight push if I get a little sloppy with my swing, but really not too much effect there because at address I square the face anyway. The loft change on the other hand, lowered the ball flight quite a bit and had the desired effect, happy I had that option.

Point is the loft change wouldn't have made any difference when the swing wasn't sound.     my two cents.

In my bag....

Bombtech Grenade driver. 10.5* Aldila DVS60 stiff, 45"

Ping i20 irons, ProjectX5.5. 5 thru PW.

Tour Edge 3 Hybrid, Adams A7 4Hybrid

Titelist SM4 52-8. 56-12

Cleveland RTX 60-12 wedge.

Tour Edge xcg5 15* 3 Wood

Cheap crappy Wilson putter that works as well as anything for me.

It's a work in progress, I've only been playing for going on two years or so.

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  • 2 months later...

IMHO tunable and adjustable golf clubs make no sense whatsoever. If you are a Robot ( iron Byron ) then you will see that adjusting the face angle etc. will change the physics of the shot, however we are not robots and do not make consistent swings. A closed or open face or less more lofted club face is not going to correct your  slice or fade etc. I believe in having a neutral club face so that If I want to hit a fade or draw I can adjust the club and or swing to fit the shot profile I am seeking with my hands or swing plane. These are just gimmicks and actually cost savings for the club manufacture's because they now can produce less drivers with varying degrees of lofts. So in essence they are basically making a one club fits all and you make the adjustments. A definite savings to club manufactures. Spend your money on golf lessons rather than trying to " buy a game ". You can play just as good with a club that is custom fitted for you with the correct loft, length, and shafting with a neutral face angle.

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IMHO tunable and adjustable golf clubs make no sense whatsoever. If you are a Robot ( iron Byron ) then you will see that adjusting the face angle etc. will change the physics of the shot, however we are not robots and do not make consistent swings. A closed or open face or less more lofted club face is not going to correct your  slice or fade etc. I believe in having a neutral club face so that If I want to hit a fade or draw I can adjust the club and or swing to fit the shot profile I am seeking with my hands or swing plane. These are just gimmicks and actually cost savings for the club manufacture's because they now can produce less drivers with varying degrees of lofts. So in essence they are basically making a one club fits all and you make the adjustments. A definite savings to club manufactures. Spend your money on golf lessons rather than trying to " buy a game ". You can play just as good with a club that is custom fitted for you with the correct loft, length, and shafting with a neutral face angle.

Yet when I went to get fitted for a driver, changing the face and lie angle allowed me to loose an additional 500-700 rpm, and increase launch angle, improve dispersion, and give me more distance.

Basically, don't fricken mess with it after you get it, but it does allow a golfer to get that launch condition that might settle in between two driver lofts.

Believe me, for me 500-700 rpm off my spin rate is a BIG help.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

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IMHO tunable and adjustable golf clubs make no sense whatsoever. If you are a Robot ( iron Byron ) then you will see that adjusting the face angle etc. will change the physics of the shot, however we are not robots and do not make consistent swings. A closed or open face or less more lofted club face is not going to correct your  slice or fade etc. I believe in having a neutral club face so that If I want to hit a fade or draw I can adjust the club and or swing to fit the shot profile I am seeking with my hands or swing plane. These are just gimmicks and actually cost savings for the club manufacture's because they now can produce less drivers with varying degrees of lofts. So in essence they are basically making a one club fits all and you make the adjustments. A definite savings to club manufactures. Spend your money on golf lessons rather than trying to " buy a game ". You can play just as good with a club that is custom fitted for you with the correct loft, length, and shafting with a neutral face angle.

Yeah, I don't disagree with that.  Except it does allow for an extra bit of peace of mind when leaving the store.  You won't have to worry if you were swinging oddly that day, or if the fitter put you in the wrong loft, because now you know you can change it again later.

But, generally, yeah ... My latest driver has not been touched since I received it because I know that the fitter knew what he was doing.  Any tweaks I make are likely going to screw it up.

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I like adjustability because you can buy a set of woods that aren't adjustable, and if you want to add one it can make you tempted to switch out more than one. For example, if I went for a low lofted driver and 3w like I have now, but wanted a higher flight from my woods, I could set my driver to 9.5 and my 3w to 15 degrees rather than buying an entire new club with shaft and grip. Or if I wanted to carry just one fairway wood I could set a club to 16 degrees or something. Fortunately the equipment companies are smarter than me so I ended up buying like 5 or 6 long clubs as it is. As expensive as these clubs are, the adjustability gives it a bit more value for those who crave versatility.

As for the driver though, usually I don't screw with it unless I'm making a shaft change, ball change, set makeup change, etc. It's better to know where the ball's going and be familiar with the club.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
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I'm currently shopping around for a new driver (new or used, probably used or clearance), and I am specifically looking at adjustable ones.  But prices are nose-diving on bonded drivers at times making a new bonded driver cost less that a 1-2 year old adjustable one. But I'm still looking at adjustable ones, partly because my swing will change this season, and partly because I might want to swap out the shaft for a different flex, and partly because I just want to be able to mess with it or at least have that option.  It seems like it would be a whole lot easier to remove a screw and swap out a shaft that it would be to pull and re-bond a shaft.

But to each their own, do what works for one's self and best fits the individual's needs and wants.

Taylormade M2 driver @ 9.5*+2

TM M6 D-type 3wood 16*, 
TM M2 Rescue 3H@19* and 4H@22* ,
TM RocketBladez irons 5-9,PW,AW, SW(23*,26.5*,30.5*,35*,40*,45*,50*,55*),
TM Hi-Toe 60* wedge,
Ping Karsten 1959 Craz-E, or a Scotty
Bushnell Tour V3 rangefinder

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I was lucky enough to come across a near perfect condition 910 D2 8.5 degree for about 220 bucks. i couldn't pass it up. just keep checking your local golf stores, and eventually something will show up that is exactly what you want

Mike

Titleist 910 D2 8.5deg Driver

Titleist 913 fd 13.5deg 3 Wood

Taylormade RBZ Tour 18deg 5 Wood

Titleist 735 Irons

Titleist Spin Milled 52deg Wedge

Mizuno MP 56deg Wedge

Scotty Cameron Studio Stainless Putter

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I was lucky enough to come across a near perfect condition 910 D2 8.5 degree for about 220 bucks. i couldn't pass it up. just keep checking your local golf stores, and eventually something will show up that is exactly what you want

I have one of these in my garage - actually a 910 D3 9.5 - and I should probably look into selling it.  I also have a RazrFit in great condition gathering dust out there as well.

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I have one of these in my garage - actually a 910 D3 9.5 - and I should probably look into selling it.  I also have a RazrFit in great condition gathering dust out there as well.

i just picked up a 913 fd 13.5 degree 3 wood last week. love this club, i'm averaging between 260-270 with it so far. i hit the ball really high so i need all my woods to be strong lofted to keep them in the atmosphere :doh:

Mike

Titleist 910 D2 8.5deg Driver

Titleist 913 fd 13.5deg 3 Wood

Taylormade RBZ Tour 18deg 5 Wood

Titleist 735 Irons

Titleist Spin Milled 52deg Wedge

Mizuno MP 56deg Wedge

Scotty Cameron Studio Stainless Putter

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Note: This thread is 3677 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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