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# Weights in driver head

## 8 posts in this topic

I have always fought a slice, and I have a driver with 3 weights in it. Changing the weights to a certain pattern will promote a draw.

First question: Does this really make that much difference?

Second question: Would doing this hinder me from getting to the root cause of what has been making me slice?

I never really fooled with the weights, kind of just thought they were a gimmick.

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If I am not mistaken ...

More weight in the heel promotes a draw, more weight at the rear of the club promotes higher ball flight, and obviously the opposites hold true as well.

My old driver (pre-adjustability) has lead tape on the heel for the same reason.  However, it's only one small piece (3g, I think) and apparently the weight difference has to be much more significant than that (10g I hear??) to move the CG.  Maybe it was the placebo effect for me.

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Its a bit complicated in the math, but it would take a pretty good amount of weight. Also the weights only really help people out if they have high swing speeds. The gear effect with the driver is more pronounced at higher clubhead speeds.

If you have a neutral set up on a driver, adding 15 grams to the outside to promote a  draw,

115mph Club head speed = 17.5 yards of draw

85mph club head speed = 6.5 yards of draw

Its easier to think of it like this, if i hit a 30 yard draw, i am only now going to hit a 24.5 yard draw. So lets not get all excited about this. For a good player, who might want a bit more right to left, who has a good swing speed, yeah you could benefit from this driver. For the average golfer, who has a slice, i would work on the swing path. Also, what if you change drivers in the future, you gotten your swing to to were, hey i am only 6.5 yards right, i hit this thing straight now. But you change drivers, don't get the same weighting, your going to hit it 6.5 yards right. I rather see people work on there swing, then try to get technology to fix it for them.

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Originally Posted by saevel25

I rather see people work on there swing, then try to get technology to fix it for them.

That's what I was thinking...... Thanks

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Originally Posted by awesome1975

Quote:

Originally Posted by saevel25

I rather see people work on there swing, then try to get technology to fix it for them.

That's what I was thinking...... Thanks

Check out an older driver - the Mizuno MP-600 with moveable weights. You can set it up to favour staying open or closed at impact. It's not a bandaid solution to anything. It's about finding a club setup that you prefer. Get your drives to start going straight left, or drawing left, then you'll have the confidence to set up and swing a out toward the right. Who cares what someone else prefers - it's your game?!?

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Originally Posted by saevel25

If you have a neutral set up on a driver, adding 15 grams to the outside to promote a  draw,

Sounds like I got it backwards then??  Heavier weight goes to the outside to promote draw?

(Actually I just checked the TM website for the R11 and they say to put the 10g weight it the heel and the 1g weight in the toe to promote a draw flight.  Incidentally, the opposite promotes a neutral setup and a straight ball flight.)

I agree with everything else saeve said too about you being better off with a neutral club setup and fine tuning your swing.

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Originally Posted by Golfingdad

Quote:

Originally Posted by saevel25

If you have a neutral set up on a driver, adding 15 grams to the outside to promote a  draw,

Sounds like I got it backwards then??  Heavier weight goes to the outside to promote draw?

(Actually I just checked the TM website for the R11 and they say to put the 10g weight it the heel and the 1g weight in the toe to promote a draw flight.  Incidentally, the opposite promotes a neutral setup and a straight ball flight.)

I agree with everything else saeve said too about you being better off with a neutral club setup and fine tuning your swing.

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oops, i got it backwards then.. thx

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