Jump to content
IGNORED

Titleist 913D2 for Beginners?


Note: This thread is 3770 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Titleist claims that the newly released 913 D2 Driver (460cc) is more forgiving because the sweet spot area on the club-face is larger.

http://www.titleist.com/golf-clubs/drivers/913D2.aspx

To me, as a beginner, this sounds like the right long-term investment.

I want to buy a driver I can use for years; something with a large club-face and this year's model.

At the moment I use my dad's old Taylormade Burner driver with a too flexible shaft; my swing speed is very high and his driver and I don't go well together, I feel.

However...

Many people tell me that as a beginner I should not buy Titleist, as it apparently is known to be for low handicapers.

Imagine that money is not an issue; however would the D913 D2, despite the large club face, still need me to have superb accuracy - which means as a beginner I'd fail using it?

My birthday is coming up and I'm not sure which driver to buy.

I'd really appreciate your opinion and suggestions.

Thanks!

Nave

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Hi all Titleist claims that the newly released 913 D2 Driver (460cc) is more forgiving because the sweet spot area on the club-face is larger. [URL=http://www.titleist.com/golf-clubs/drivers/913D2.aspx]http://www.titleist.com/golf-clubs/drivers/913D2.aspx[/URL] To me, as a beginner, this sounds like the right long-term investment. I want to buy a driver I can use for years; something with a large club-face and this year's model. At the moment I use my dad's old Taylormade Burner driver with a too flexible shaft; my swing speed is very high and his driver and I don't go well together, I feel. However... Many people tell me that as a beginner I should not buy Titleist, as it apparently is known to be for low handicapers. Imagine that money is not an issue; however would the D913 D2, despite the large club face, still need me to have superb accuracy - which means as a beginner I'd fail using it? My birthday is coming up and I'm not sure which driver to buy. I'd really appreciate your opinion and suggestions. Thanks! Nave

And people told me not to get the 907 D2 when it came out because I was too new - I didnt listen and enjoyed playing with it anyway. You cant go wrong with an adjustable - just make sure you get the right shaft in it.

Follow me on twitter

Chris, although my friends call me Mr.L

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Moderator

I have the 910D2 and do think it is fine for a beginner.  Being able to adjust the loft and lie really helps as your swing evolves.  I do recommend getting fitted for a good shaft.  The stock Diamana  shafts are a bit softer than you would expect.  The regular Kai'li is really for a swing speed of ~85 max.

Scott

Titleist, Edel, Scotty Cameron Putter, Snell - AimPoint - Evolvr - MirrorVision

My Swing Thread

boogielicious - Adjective describing the perfect surf wave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Mis hits definently will be amplified compared to a more foregiving driver like the G20.

Titleist 913D2 9.5 (UST VTS 65)

Titleist 913F 15 (Diamana S+)

Titleist 913H 19 (Diamana S+)

Titleist 714 AP2 (4-PW) (DG XP-95)

Titleist Vokey SM5 (52,56,58) (DG XP-95)

Ping Anser 2 Classic

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Moderator

Not sure about the G20, but the Titleist 910D2 was about the same as the G15.  I have had both and like the D2 better.

Scott

Titleist, Edel, Scotty Cameron Putter, Snell - AimPoint - Evolvr - MirrorVision

My Swing Thread

boogielicious - Adjective describing the perfect surf wave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Even the tour driver's, most of them are 440cc even 460cc, maybe a slightly less deeper face for more maneuverability, but honestly, today's drivers, anyone can hit any driver out there.

I played a ping G10 and switched to a 910D2. The G10 was less maneuverable, it's a pretty much meat and potatoes type of driver, you know what you get. The 910D2, if i wanted to i could curve the ball a bit more, i've actually curved it quite a lot. But that's not to say its not meant for higher handicappers as well. Of course some driver's are a slightly better for certain handicaps than others. I would say Titleist plays towards the professionals to the mid handicappers, but that's not it can't be used successfully by any handicap.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Go for it. Titleist is a solid name, and the value of your club should last a while.

But I would also suggest that if you are looking for a new driver, that you should try out as many as you can at a golf shop.

The right shaft flex is important of course, but I would also pick a driver head according to how consistently I could hit it well, and there are more things than a larger sweetspot that can help this.

Things like how the head looks at address, the feel of the weight of the club in your swing, the sound of the head hitting the ball.

Those things can affect your swing too.

But If I was buying a club for a family member, and money was no issue, I'd also buy a large 460cc head from a reputable name.

Titleist 910D2 8.5° Diamana 'ahina 80 S
Titleist 909F3 3W 13° Diamana D83 S, Titleist 910f 5W 19° Fubuki Ax 80X
Taylormade RAC MB TP 3-PW Irons DG S300, Callaway Jaws 54° and 60°
Titleist Futura putter, Taylormade TP5 balls

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Why not?

I hit the 913D2 in a 12 degree head and Bassara shaft - it was a very controllable, yet long club.

Don't know your age, but you might consider a 10.5 so you can crank it up to 12 degrees, and then take it back down as your game improves.

Same with the shaft - go for something that is as flexible and light as you can control -- you can change it later as your swing gets stronger.

What you don't want to do is get something that is low lofted, which produces sidespin, and a shaft that is too strong which may produce low, inconsistent shots and make you swing out of your shoes.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Thanks, I'm in my mid thirties and do have strong arm and chest power. It translated into a high swing speed with zero accuracy led by muscle and not natural swing/gravity :) I'm taking lessons now to learn a more natural swing without too much arm muscle use. So I'd still be good with a stiff shaft?
Link to comment
Share on other sites


There's alot more to shaft than just stiffness.

Overall a golf club can be a stiff flex, but can vary greatly between brands and models. A great guide is on Titleist website, check out there 910D2 page and look at there custom guide. Gives a great graph of golf shafts and launch versus spin. really gives you a good idea as to were a golf shaft lies.

General rule of thumb

Heavier the shaft in the same model type, stiffer it will be. So a heavy regular flex will be similar to a lighter stiff flex

Some stiff flexes can have higher launch angles because there kick point is different, same goes for spin rate. but generally, the stiffer the flex, the lower the launch and lower the spin.

Meaning, if you have a fast swing speed, your probably looking at a stiffer shaft, one it tightens dispersion due to unwanted shaft flexion. Two, it maximizes energy transfer at the right moment. Basically, to stiff a shaft and you might never transfer all the energy, and not enough stiffness and you might transfer it to late, or transfer it to early.

My driver swing speed is around 110-120, and i play the Titleist A'hina 72 stiff flex shaft. I love it, launches the ball on a great trajectory, not to high, not to low. But i know for my swing, i want to stay in those bottom left quadrants, because the higher the swing speed, the more spin you generate. Spin for a driver can really kill distance by causing it to stay in the air to long, or get caught by the wind. Spin helps out slower swing speeds, because there velocity doesn't generate much carry, so higher spin helps them gain more carry.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 1 year later...
Last month, finally after 6 months of looking at drivers, forums, reviews- went all in for the 913d2. As many have mentioned here, getting the proper shaft fit is key. I was fitted with an Aldila tour shaft by the local pgatour shop pro. walking out of the shop with a much lighter wallet, I was wondering about my decision. I have to say probably the best golf investment in a while. After a few practice range outings, I am hitting it off the tee on average 260+ yards. About 20 yards more than my old Taylormade. The trajectory and carry distance are so much better. Also the feel when you get that sweet spot hit.... You just know right off impact. I am a 12 handicap and hoping to get lower. Best of luck to you. I am confident you will be happy.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 3770 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • @boogielicious and I are definitely in for the Stay & Play and will need the extra night's stay on Friday. I don't know what the plans are for our group on Friday but even if we don't make it for dinner with the rest of the Friday arrivals, I'll be more than happy to meet up somewhere for a beer or something.
    • Taking your dispersion and distance in consideration I analyzed the 4 posible ways to play the hole, or at least the ones that were listed here. I took the brown grass on the left as fescue were you need to punch out sideways to the fairway and rigth of the car path to be fescue too.  Driver "going for the green"  You have to aim more rigth, to the bunker in order to center your shotzone in between the fescue.  Wood of 240 over the bunkers I already like this one more for you. More room to land between the fescue. Balls in the fescue 11% down from 30% with driver. Improve of score from 4.55 to 4.40. 4 iron 210 yards besides the bunkers.    Also a wide area and your shot zone is better than previous ones. This makes almost the fescue dissapear. You really need to hit a bad one (sometimes shit happens). Because of that and only having 120 yards in this is the best choice so far. Down to 4.32 from 4.40. Finally the 6 Iron 180 yards to avoid all trouble.    Wide area an narrow dispersion for almost been in the fairway all the time. Similar than the previous one but 25 yards farther for the hole to avoid been in the bunkers. Average remains the same, 4.33 to 4.32.  Conclusion is easy. Either your 4iron or 6 iron of the tee are equaly good for you. Glad that you made par!
    • Wish I could have spent 5 minutes in the middle of the morning round to hit some balls at the range. Just did much more of right side through with keeping the shoulders feeling level (not dipping), and I was flushing them. Lol. Maybe too much focus on hands stuff while playing.
    • Last year I made an excel that can easily measure with my own SG data the average score for each club of the tee. Even the difference in score if you aim more left or right with the same club. I like it because it can be tweaked to account for different kind of rough, trees, hazards, greens etc.     As an example, On Par 5's that you have fescue on both sides were you can count them as a water hazard (penalty or punch out sideways), unless 3 wood or hybrid lands in a wider area between the fescue you should always hit driver. With a shorter club you are going to hit a couple less balls in the fescue than driver but you are not going to offset the fact that 100% of the shots are going to be played 30 or more yards longer. Here is a 560 par 5. Driver distance 280 yards total, 3 wood 250, hybrid 220. Distance between fescue is 30 yards (pretty tight). Dispersion for Driver is 62 yards. 56 for 3 wood and 49 for hybrid. Aiming of course at the middle of the fairway (20 yards wide) with driver you are going to hit 34% of balls on the fescue (17% left/17% right). 48% to the fairway and the rest to the rough.  The average score is going to be around 5.14. Looking at the result with 3 wood and hybrid you are going to hit less balls in the fescue but because of having longer 2nd shots you are going to score slightly worst. 5.17 and 5.25 respectively.    Things changes when the fescue is taller and you are probably going to loose the ball so changing the penalty of hitting there playing a 3 wood or hybrid gives a better score in the hole.  Off course 30 yards between penalty hazards is way to small. You normally have 60 or more, in that cases the score is going to be more close to 5 and been the Driver the weapon of choice.  The point is to see that no matter how tight the hole is, depending on the hole sometimes Driver is the play and sometimes 6 irons is the play. Is easy to see that on easy holes, but holes like this:  you need to crunch the numbers to find the best strategy.     
    • Very much so. I think the intimidation factor that a lot of people feel playing against someone who's actually very good is significant. I know that Winged Foot pride themselves on the strength of the club. I think they have something like 40-50 players who are plus something. Club championships there are pretty competitive. Can't imagine Oakmont isn't similar. The more I think about this, the more likely it seems that this club is legit. Winning also breeds confidence and I'm sure the other clubs when they play this one are expecting to lose - that can easily become a self-fulfilling prophecy.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...