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logman

And another thing....Draw drivers and the BFL

10 posts in this topic

How do draw drivers work? I had a K15 driver for a while and from memory it had a lump of TI sitting on the heel of the club. I guess that helps the club "turn over" or am I 180 degrees out. Even still, turning the club over doesn't ensure a draw. Should draw drivers be called "pull drivers"??

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From what I've gathered, "draw" drivers work in several ways: A) They have a face that lines up closed (which, yes, would induce a pull rather than a draw), B) they add weight to the heel which moves the COG to the heel, making center hits act like toe hits (which induces draw spin), and C) sometimes they tweak the torque and tip of the shaft.
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Originally Posted by logman

Even still, turning the club over doesn't ensure a draw. Should draw drivers be called "pull drivers"??

Exactly, just helps the ball start more to the left.

Originally Posted by jamo

From what I've gathered, "draw" drivers work in several ways:

A) They have a face that lines up closed (which, yes, would induce a pull rather than a draw), B) they add weight to the heel which moves the COG to the heel, making center hits act like toe hits (which induces draw spin),

Yep adding weight to the heel moves the CoG a bit, creates some gear effect and tilts the spin axis to the left.

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What's your endgame logman? You're asking a bunch of basic questions that have easy answers. Why?

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Originally Posted by logman

How do draw drivers work? I had a K15 driver for a while and from memory it had a lump of TI sitting on the heel of the club. I guess that helps the club "turn over" or am I 180 degrees out. Even still, turning the club over doesn't ensure a draw. Should draw drivers be called "pull drivers"??

The problem with draw clubs is they help to close the face though impact and most slicers have a relatively square face through impact. The path is the issue not the face.

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Originally Posted by EverythingGolf

The problem with draw clubs is they help to close the face though impact and most slicers have a relatively square face through impact. The path is the issue not the face.

My dad is a notorious "hacker" and I believe he is pretty typical.  Big over-the-top swing resulting in a path well to the LEFT of the target.  A good result for him is a when his face is pointed to the RIGHT (see Erik, I'm listening :)) of that path, giving him a "nice" pull-fade that ends up in the fairway.  Occasionally, he will strike the ball very solidly with that clubface pointing in the exact same direction.  Good loud sound, definitely good smash factor for him, with one slight problem ... the ball is not on the course anymore and he has to re-tee lying three.

Certainly, many like him are fooled into thinking "I have a crappy slice so, obviously, I should get a draw driver" ... with the results being, ummm, not so good.  Back to the drawing board.  Must be the club, let's buy something else.  (This post also fits in the "golf company scam" thread as well)

On the other hand, if you have a consistent straight-push or push-fade, I imagine a draw driver might work just fine for you.  Personally, I think fixing your swing is better than a crutch, but not everybody agrees with that.

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OK so, if I've got a 12 degree draw driver would a change in lie angle be more benifeficial to drawing the ball. Would say a 10 degree toe up tilt change the spin axis enough to make a more "natural" draw......or is that angle not enough.

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Originally Posted by logman

OK so, if I've got a 12 degree draw driver would a change in lie angle be more benifeficial to drawing the ball. Would say a 10 degree toe up tilt change the spin axis enough to make a more "natural" draw......or is that angle not enough.

logman, answer my question please.

Learn to swing the club better rather than messing with draw drivers or changing the lie angle to 10 degrees of toe up or whatever. How about that? :)

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Erik, my example of the 12 degree draw driver was a hypothetical. I don't have a draw driver any more(Ichanged the k model for a g model ). My question is, would building in a more extreme lie angle(toe up) be a better way to build in a draw bias than heel weighting. OR is the axis change not enough to change anything? I'm just thinking for folks that have trouble with their driver..........That's all..... no "endgame" no "trolling" no "smartalecy".

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Originally Posted by logman

Erik, my example of the 12 degree draw driver was a hypothetical. I don't have a draw driver any more(Ichanged the k model for a g model ). My question is, would building in a more extreme lie angle(toe up) be a better way to build in a draw bias than heel weighting. OR is the axis change not enough to change anything? I'm just thinking for folks that have trouble with their driver..........That's all..... no "endgame" no "trolling" no "smartalecy".

Some simple math: 10° lie angle change from neutral (most drivers are too upright and thus sit too flat already) with 12° loft on the clubface will point the face 2.1138° farther to the left (for a righty).

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