• Announcements

    • iacas

      Create a Signature!   02/05/2016

      Everyone, go here and edit your signature this week: http://thesandtrap.com/settings/signature/.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
SacGolf89

Iron Shaft Help!!!

0   10 votes

  1. 1. Which Iron Shafts?

    • Project X 6.0 or 6.5 Shafts
      1
    • Rifle Steel 6.5 Shatfs
      0
    • True Temper S300
      4
    • KBS Tour Stiff
      5

Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

24 posts in this topic

Ok guys I have a bit of a plight here.  I recently added (couple months ago) some TaylorMade RAC HT Irons to my bag and I absolutely love them, but I'm thinking of switching out the shafts as the ones in them are the stock TaylorMade S shafts.  I'm torn between 4 options, 2 of which are the usual suspects.  These are the options I'm looking at...

1. Project X 6.0 or 6.5 shafts (non-flighted)

2. True Temper S300

3. Rifle Tapered Shafts 6.5 (non-flighted)

4. KBS Tour Stiff Shafts

I'm leaning more towards either KBS or Project X, but still not sure.  I'm looking for something to help give me a little bit lower flight though for sure.  Also, does anyone know what the tip diameter is for my irons, and if they are tapered or not.  Thanks guys.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to get rid of this advertisement? Sign up (or log in) today! It's free!

i prefer the dynamic gold shafts but the kbs are nice too, very smooth on both of those. never tried the others

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats the only shaft I've ever hit in my irons (tt) and i like them, i think I'm just looking for something new maybe. On a side note, the shafts in my HT's are TT, but a made for. I wonder if just doing S300's will change it up ball flight wise.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you could get them tip stiff or have them hard stepped as well

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What is your current ball flight? What kind of ball flight are you looking for?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards and Achievements

The shafts you have now are extremely soft compared to any of those. Stiff would be like a regular or senior + flex when compared to tour weight shafts, since they're only 95 grams and designed by TM to go into their distance irons.

KBS would be my recommendation; they are only 120g in stiff, should be a mid flight compared to the others and feel nice and smooth. Maybe consider the S+ or soft/hard stepping, personally I love the brand and would recommend them.

Dynamic Gold is worth trying, but it will be a big difference because they're 130 grams. I would hesitate to go that heavy unless you try them first, but flex wise they should work OK. Project X are considered harsh by some, and rifle are not shown much love.

As I read your profile though...If you actually hit that 8 degree R11 with a Fujikura Motore F1 75x, you're either a vain individual who's hitting a lot of worm burners or you have quite decent speed. If you actually like or were fitted to that shaft, then go right ahead and try the different 130g X flex shafts. Many players do prefer softer iron shafts, but if you're playing such a low lofted driver with a legitimate X shaft like the fuji then at least try X. I'm honestly kinda confused why you're only considering S flex in your irons.

Remember that Project X steel will play about 5.5= DG S300 and 6.5= DGX100, while the KBS will be about the same as the dynamic gold flex wise. The Project X 6.5 is a lot more stiff than anything else on the list. However while DG are all the same weight, KBS and PX are progressively heavier.

Personally I use C tapers in X flex soft stepped once, so they're 130 grams and tip stable but play similar to a typical X flex shaft. C tapers are really low spin/launch so they play half a flex stiff normally.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards and Achievements

Originally Posted by tristanhilton85

What is your current ball flight? What kind of ball flight are you looking for?

Ridiculously high, and I'm looking for more of a mid to low-mid flight,

Originally Posted by LuciusWooding

The shafts you have now are extremely soft compared to any of those. Stiff would be like a regular or senior + flex when compared to tour weight shafts, since they're only 95 grams and designed by TM to go into their distance irons.

KBS would be my recommendation; they are only 120g in stiff, should be a mid flight compared to the others and feel nice and smooth. Maybe consider the S+ or soft/hard stepping, personally I love the brand and would recommend them.

Dynamic Gold is worth trying, but it will be a big difference because they're 130 grams. I would hesitate to go that heavy unless you try them first, but flex wise they should work OK. Project X are considered harsh by some, and rifle are not shown much love.

As I read your profile though...If you actually hit that 8 degree R11 with a Fujikura Motore F1 75x, you're either a vain individual who's hitting a lot of worm burners or you have quite decent speed. If you actually like or were fitted to that shaft, then go right ahead and try the different 130g X flex shafts. Many players do prefer softer iron shafts, but if you're playing such a low lofted driver with a legitimate X shaft like the fuji then at least try X. I'm honestly kinda confused why you're only considering S flex in your irons.

Remember that Project X steel will play about 5.5= DG S300 and 6.5= DGX100, while the KBS will be about the same as the dynamic gold flex wise. The Project X 6.5 is a lot more stiff than anything else on the list. However while DG are all the same weight, KBS and PX are progressively heavier.

Personally I use C tapers in X flex soft stepped once, so they're 130 grams and tip stable but play similar to a typical X flex shaft. C tapers are really low spin/launch so they play half a flex stiff normally.

It's not set on 8*, it's setup for 7.5*, and I still hit that higher than most people hit a 9.5-10.5, but still getting around 300 yards every drive (give or take 10 yards).  When I swing my irons though, I don't obviously swing as hard as my driver, but I try to have a more controlled swing.  With that being said, the slightly lighter, softer flex shaft to me feels better only for the fact I can control the club more, whereas if I go heavier, and stiffer, I have to swing a little harder and therefore would not be in control so much.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Dynamic golds in s300s is a mid launching shaft for me thats why i picked them you said your a higher ball hitter so that might bring it down. TO be honest though you could smoke them to the moon still. I like a very high ball flight thats why i have the tt gs95 s300 but hey who knows.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw the comparison listed above, how is it that a project x 5.5 is = to Dynamic golf s? Is that different than project x flighted 5.5? I saw that the 5.5 project x flighed are listed as regualar. Can someone who understands iron shafts explain the differences.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I prefer project X flighted golf shafts, i think they produce a much more consistent ball flight

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards and Achievements

Ok guys I'm bringing an old thread back from the dead, but I now have a new iron set and am looking at doing thus again but more seriously. I picked up a set of Nike VR Split cavity irons with stock S300's in them. I like the ball flight but they do tend to "spin up" and balloon half the time. I've been researching and was considering the DG X100 tour issue shafts for them to realistically give me the penetrating ball flight, and to not balloon. The flight I have now, minus the ballooning, is mid flight which is fine but want it slightly lower. Would these shafts work out for what I'm looking for? Thanks in advance.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try out KBS TOUR or KBS C-Taper. I had the same issue, the dynamic gold would start off lower and balloon up. I got the KBS shaft and the flight was much better. Also check out Project X Shafts, they will be in between KBS and Dynamic Gold.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards and Achievements

SacGolf,

Here are the shaft specs for the five models you are talking about. We can then compare the shafts on specific factors.

Shaft

Weight (gr.)

FCM

Tip

Launch

ProjX  6.0 Rifle (non-F)

120

6.5

Med-Firm

Mid-flat

ProjX  6.5 Rifle (non-F)

125

7.0

Med-Firm

Mid-flat

Rifle Taper 6.5

130

6.5

Firm

Mid-Low

True T S300

130

5.8

Firm

Low

KBS Tour Stiff (taper)

120

6.0

Med-Stiff

Mid-Low

FCM = Frequency Coefficient Matching, which can be used to measure comparative stiffness among different shaft models

It appears that the Royal Precision Rifle shafts last appeared in component catalogs in 2012 (RP also made Project X before True Temper bought it). If you can find any RP Rifles, they are slightly heavier and a half-flex softer than the PX 6.5. Unless somebody has some RP Rifles in the back room, I don't know if you can find them.

The PX Rifles are an interesting shaft. They give the ball a little extra height on launch, but then flatten out for a more boring ball flight. Also, the PX Rifles play about a half step stiffer than the shaft rating. So, PX 6.0 has FCM = 6.5

For the TM RAC HT, the MPF = 701, on the line between GI and SGI. The Vertical Center of Gravity is about average, so it's not like the heads are ballooning the ball.

I would suggest you get on a launch monitor and get fitted. All the shafts you list are reasonable for testing, but none really jump out as the one .

You might also get a swing check, and make sure your set-up doesn't encourage too high a launch.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards and Achievements

C-Taper is the way to go for lowering flight.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards and Achievements

C-Taper is the way to go for lowering flight.

Yes, from what all have said; and if it's too low, they just came out with the Tour V

http://kbsgolfshafts.com/shafts/kbs-tour-v

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards and Achievements

I play KBS Tour in S+ softstepped...I also hit my ball simply WAY TO HIGH, I have a  6 iron C-Taper on the way to see how I like it. I used to play the Project X 6.0 flighted but I dont think they can hold a candle to the feel of the KBS Tour. If you try the C-Taper and they are too low you could look into softstepping which will supposedly raise the ball flight a bit.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I play KBS Tour in S+ softstepped...I also hit my ball simply WAY TO HIGH, I have a  6 iron C-Taper on the way to see how I like it. I used to play the Project X 6.0 flighted but I dont think they can hold a candle to the feel of the KBS Tour. If you try the C-Taper and they are too low you could look into softstepping which will supposedly raise the ball flight a bit.

C-Taper has a pretty dead feel as well, nothing like the Tour. But the ball flight is awesome.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards and Achievements

Looking to test out some new shafts for my irons as well. I have always had a high ballflight but my SS has increased a lot recently so I think I need to move to a different shaft from my DG S300s. Not really sure what direction I am going to go in but I have heard nothing but good things about the C-Tapers. I definitely want to test them along with KBS Tours S+, PX 6.0/6.5, and DG X100s. Used a bunch of the online fitting tools with some of my updated info and these seem to be the shafts that come out as recommendations. Obviously, I need to get on a launch monitor with a proper fitter and see what works best. Only downside to all of this is that it seems to pretty expensive to re-shaft my whole set. DGs are a little less expensive but it doesn't seem like it's going to be a cheap undertaking no matter which direction I go.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2016 TST Partners

    GAME Golf
    PING Golf
    Lowest Score Wins
  • Posts

    • My Swing (jbishop15)
      I see a lot of G-Mac in that swing! G-Mac has the same grip and also a shut face, maybe not as shut as you and DJ. If you would allow me to give my input. From what I can see you are the Tiger Woods of the backswing, no matter what you do or try to do you end up in a great position. I saw your first post and you were very inside going back, now you seem to be too outside. I'll leave the backswing to the others, my advice is to find somwhere between now and then. Since you're great at the top, try to find the most efficient path to the top, have your shoulders move from setup to top of backswing position in one smooth motion, without standing up on the way back. If you find the most efficient path with the arms you will find it somewhere in the middle, not too much in, not too much out, remember the swing is an arch, not straight lines, it's okay to get a little curvy with it. That's the best way I can explain in laymans terms. The reason you want to be efficient is to lessen the time of the swing. Most pros get the ball in the air in the time you take to get to the top. This is very common. The less time you take, the more repeatable it will be. Try to lay three balls next to each other, and rapid fire them. Do this a few times. Then hit one ball pretending you have to rapid fire three, but stop after one. This is a great drill. All this should help your backswing in no time!   Now I'm going to write what I think is a basic issue in your swing, which again has a lot of great positions in it. I strongly advise you work on the backswing first until you are so ewhat used to it (2 weeks) and then go onto this next part. You can have this next part in the back of your mind, allowing your body to toy with it without thought as you work on the backswing. Do yourself a big favor and DO NOT work on both at the same time. Remember the body learns better if it understands in the mind first, and then works on its own a bit, instead of trying to force feed new motions. From my experience the backswing part and this next part will take you a few months each to feel comfortable, but you will see the impacts very quickly. I think you will find solid contact if you choose to follow my advice.  Here is the next part: Your arms are swinging somewhat opposite of the direction of your body. This is a weight transfer issue. Golf instructors and books will have different opinions on how much weight you shoud have on your back foot on the backswing, some say 60% others say as much as 80%, some say 100%. I agree with the notion that you should have as much weight back as you can, without involving extra effort to go forward, like a rocking chair, it should be a load and release, not a pull and a push. In your swing your body is rocking back, but then it is leaning towards the target slightly, not much. The problem is your arms are swinging away from your body, completely on their own, there is little connection to the movement of the body. Then on the forward swing, your body begins falling back, and the arms begin swinging forward. Since you have the club face very shut, the body must also fall back to allow the club face time to square up, barring an insane hip turn. The result is at impact you are angled too much upward, the hands are pointing up and to the right, causing a high push, and more importantly adding loft to the club. This results in difficulty controlling distance, and shots that are weaker and higher than they can potentially be, given your natural power. So the fix here is to get the body and arms working more together. The first step is get that club face just a little less closed, maybe 5-10 degrees less, so that you don't have to strain yourself while not falling back. To do this just strenghten your left hand grip slighty, and try not to bow the left wrist as severely at the top. This is easier said than done, but once your clubface is more square/closed than closed/closed, it will allow some room for the body motion adjustment. The final step is getting the body to move forward with the arms, so you aren't falling back. You should notice a straighter left leg happening with this. There will be a lot less upper body tilt, and you will stay on top of your hips more. The hands forward part will have to wait until the body isn't falling back so severely, because part of the hands going forward is the body going left. You won't have a hard time with this because you already lag the club well. The best way you can get the body going in sequence going back and forward is to imagine throwing the club back as far as you can, and throwing the club forward as far as you can. If you have a lot of property and old clubs you can actually do this. The throwing the club forward part is practiced into nets by students frequently. The throwing back is important too. An impact bag will help as well. Remember if you wanted to throw a club far you would naturally put your weight into it, not against it, which is why the drill is so helpful. The only difference between throwing a club and the golf swing is two things. One you have to hold onto the club, for many reasons. Two* to get consistent contact you can't move laterally much off the ball. You want to feel as if you and the club are being pulled as hard as you can, without moving more than two or three inches off the ball, that is the real challenge. It's not easy to focus so much force while staying still, which is why the opposite weight transfer is a go to move for many golfers. Whatever it is, you must still use the same concepts as if you are throwing a club back and throwing a club upward, that is the best way for your mind and body will both understand where the ball is supposed to go. The last thing I will add is that when you imagine throwing the club, it does not have to be a straight line. The backswing throw should be up and behind you a bit, and the forward throw of course would be up and to your left a bit, since the swing is on an arch.  Hope you take this with you. :D
    • Irons, Irons, Irons!
      I agree on the lessons.  Learn to hit what you have now.  Once you understand the game a little better, you'll know what irons are best for you.
    • PGA Tour Caddies file class-action suit against PGA Tour for use of likeness, bibs
      "I like my chances at milking this case for an even greater amount of money, garnering me even more free publicity when it's discussed by the media! I will strongly advise my clients to write me another check." But seriously, if he's not surprised by the ruling why on earth would he like their chances to appeal the decision? If that was the expected outcome, what factors would make it more likely that they do well in an appellate court?
    • Different swing for Driver and Irons
      If that's the only difference I would say they have a lot more the same than not. Are the swings a golfer makes with a 5I and a 7I "the same"?
    • Unusual happenings on the course
      I forgot about riding in a cart, which is unusual, and all the woods.  I didn't realize that's what made a wonderful spokesman.  How do you speak when you're asleep?
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Images

  • Today's Birthdays

  • Blog Entries