Jump to content
IGNORED

Mizuno MX 25 for a 30 handicapper?


Note: This thread is 4024 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

1st post: Hello Everyone. I have been playing for 10 years but I have really only played 3-5 times per year in that timeframe and unfortunately still struggle. I have now taken on a sales position where I'd like to make the golf course a place to build relationships. My game is strongest off the tee and my chipping and putting needs work but is improving. My iron play however is awful! I can drive a ball 270 yds leave it in the middle of the fairway with 80 yds to the pin and approach my next shot knowing that at least 2-3 iron shots are still to come. I'm playing with Dunlops from 1998 and I realize its me and not my irons but I also realize technology in club makings has improved dramatically over the past decade. So, after this long winded breakdown on my game I am curious what others think about the Mizuno MX 25's for a player who needs serious game improvements from iron play?
Link to comment
Share on other sites


some Big Bertha  irons will  help a new or infrequent player more than mx25svement

Go for max forgiveness,  Mizuno now makes some irons that look like Berthas, but I would go with the Berthas if going for max or super game improvement.  Callaway is the Godmother of forgiveness in irons.

IMO

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thanks for your response. I actually had an old hand me down set of big berthas that I played with for a summer. I never could get used to swinging those bricks. I hit my Dunlops better do I ended up getting rid of the Big Berthas.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Nothing wrong with the MZ 25 for someone in your position, a few years old, but a quality iron that should be better than very old Dunlops, that probably were not great when they were new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


DON'T LISTEN TO ANYONE HERE!  LOL

You are only going to become more confused. There is a conspiracy in the industry and it is well permeated in this forum. They want you to buy two sets of clubs, possibly three. One to learn to hit the ball with, one set to learn to make the ball go and then one set to make the ball go where you want. If your going to get a set, get a set you feel like a million dollars in. All the clubs are designed to go the same distance, by rules of the game of golf. I'm you don't think Tiger is above putting Titanium in his putter head to get an advantage then your wrong, The thing that stops him is the rules. Golf clubs are like a pair of boxing gloves or a pair of running shoes. You will do all the work, the equipment just sort of gets in the way. Go with a club that is EASY to HIT and EASY to CONTROL. Whatever equipment you think will make that happen, then go for it.

I have a thread about Mizuno with several emails from Mizuno actual regarding when a player is "ready" for a certain club. Between them, the "pro's" at the store and the infinite wisdom of the Internets I find there is a huge lack of consistency regarding equipment. In the end I think the choice of equipment is a personal matter that you are best left in control of. I'm not even sure fittings are all that helpful. It's a relatively new tech and how anyone one the Masters prior to 2000 is beyond me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I do not like modern GI irons either...

When in doubt, just buy a used iron cheap from ebay and try it out. Hit it on the course and see, how you fare with it. The MX25 has a cavity back and positioned for handicaps around 20 and below. Try before you buy.

@Prodaytrader Conspiracy? Sure... Why dont you buy used stuff off ebay - no questions asked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Originally Posted by Prodaytrader

DON'T LISTEN TO ANYONE HERE!  LOL

^^^And start with the guy who wrote that^^^

Visit some demo days, Find out if there is a shop in the area that will let you demo several different models. Its a personal choice, all the manufacturers make decent equipment these days. Its a matter of what feels right and more importantly, what looks right to you.

Danny    In my :ping: Hoofer Tour golf bag on my :clicgear: 8.0 Cart

Driver:   :pxg: 0311 Gen 5  X-Stiff.                        Irons:  :callaway: 4-PW APEX TCB Irons 
3 Wood: :callaway: Mavrik SZ Rogue X-Stiff                            Nippon Pro Modus 130 X-Stiff
3 Hybrid: :callaway: Mavrik Pro KBS Tour Proto X   Wedges: :vokey:  50°, 54°, 60° 
Putter: :odyssey:  2-Ball Ten Arm Lock        Ball: :titleist: ProV 1

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by Prodaytrader

DON'T LISTEN TO ANYONE HERE!  LOL

You are only going to become more confused. There is a conspiracy in the industry and it is well permeated in this forum. They want you to buy two sets of clubs, possibly three. One to learn to hit the ball with, one set to learn to make the ball go and then one set to make the ball go where you want. If your going to get a set, get a set you feel like a million dollars in. All the clubs are designed to go the same distance, by rules of the game of golf. I'm you don't think Tiger is above putting Titanium in his putter head to get an advantage then your wrong, The thing that stops him is the rules. Golf clubs are like a pair of boxing gloves or a pair of running shoes. You will do all the work, the equipment just sort of gets in the way. Go with a club that is EASY to HIT and EASY to CONTROL. Whatever equipment you think will make that happen, then go for it.

I have a thread about Mizuno with several emails from Mizuno actual regarding when a player is "ready" for a certain club. Between them, the "pro's" at the store and the infinite wisdom of the Internets I find there is a huge lack of consistency regarding equipment. In the end I think the choice of equipment is a personal matter that you are best left in control of. I'm not even sure fittings are all that helpful. It's a relatively new tech and how anyone one the Masters prior to 2000 is beyond me.

Ah, just when I was starting to miss Logman along comes Prodaytrader to fill the void.

Yours in earnest, Jason.
Call me Ernest, or EJ or Ernie.

PSA - "If you find yourself in a hole, STOP DIGGING!"

My Whackin' Sticks: :cleveland: 330cc 2003 Launcher 10.5*  :tmade: RBZ HL 3w  :nickent: 3DX DC 3H, 3DX RC 4H  :callaway: X-22 5-AW  :nike:SV tour 56* SW :mizuno: MP-T11 60* LW :bridgestone: customized TD-03 putter :tmade:Penta TP3   :aimpoint:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by Mulligan Man

1st post: Hello Everyone. I have been playing for 10 years but I have really only played 3-5 times per year in that timeframe and unfortunately still struggle. I have now taken on a sales position where I'd like to make the golf course a place to build relationships.

My game is strongest off the tee and my chipping and putting needs work but is improving. My iron play however is awful! I can drive a ball 270 yds leave it in the middle of the fairway with 80 yds to the pin and approach my next shot knowing that at least 2-3 iron shots are still to come. I'm playing with Dunlops from 1998 and I realize its me and not my irons but I also realize technology in club makings has improved dramatically over the past decade.

So, after this long winded breakdown on my game I am curious what others think about the Mizuno MX 25's for a player who needs serious game improvements from iron play?

If you are improving, the MX-25s are fine clubs. Forgiving but not overly forgiving - good for a 10-20 capper. If you're getting better, they're fine. If you hit dirt before the ball all the time, and dig, then you might find something like a Ping G10 or better, a Ping Rapture or Rapture V2 -- get them used.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 4024 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • Day 119: 4/24/24 Chipping and pitching followed by putting through 50 mm gates.
    • @boogielicious and I are definitely in for the Stay & Play and will need the extra night's stay on Friday. I don't know what the plans are for our group on Friday but even if we don't make it for dinner with the rest of the Friday arrivals, I'll be more than happy to meet up somewhere for a beer or something.
    • Taking your dispersion and distance in consideration I analyzed the 4 posible ways to play the hole, or at least the ones that were listed here. I took the brown grass on the left as fescue were you need to punch out sideways to the fairway and rigth of the car path to be fescue too.  Driver "going for the green"  You have to aim more rigth, to the bunker in order to center your shotzone in between the fescue.  Wood of 240 over the bunkers I already like this one more for you. More room to land between the fescue. Balls in the fescue 11% down from 30% with driver. Improve of score from 4.55 to 4.40. 4 iron 210 yards besides the bunkers.    Also a wide area and your shot zone is better than previous ones. This makes almost the fescue dissapear. You really need to hit a bad one (sometimes shit happens). Because of that and only having 120 yards in this is the best choice so far. Down to 4.32 from 4.40. Finally the 6 Iron 180 yards to avoid all trouble.    Wide area an narrow dispersion for almost been in the fairway all the time. Similar than the previous one but 25 yards farther for the hole to avoid been in the bunkers. Average remains the same, 4.33 to 4.32.  Conclusion is easy. Either your 4iron or 6 iron of the tee are equaly good for you. Glad that you made par!
    • Wish I could have spent 5 minutes in the middle of the morning round to hit some balls at the range. Just did much more of right side through with keeping the shoulders feeling level (not dipping), and I was flushing them. Lol. Maybe too much focus on hands stuff while playing.
    • Last year I made an excel that can easily measure with my own SG data the average score for each club of the tee. Even the difference in score if you aim more left or right with the same club. I like it because it can be tweaked to account for different kind of rough, trees, hazards, greens etc.     As an example, On Par 5's that you have fescue on both sides were you can count them as a water hazard (penalty or punch out sideways), unless 3 wood or hybrid lands in a wider area between the fescue you should always hit driver. With a shorter club you are going to hit a couple less balls in the fescue than driver but you are not going to offset the fact that 100% of the shots are going to be played 30 or more yards longer. Here is a 560 par 5. Driver distance 280 yards total, 3 wood 250, hybrid 220. Distance between fescue is 30 yards (pretty tight). Dispersion for Driver is 62 yards. 56 for 3 wood and 49 for hybrid. Aiming of course at the middle of the fairway (20 yards wide) with driver you are going to hit 34% of balls on the fescue (17% left/17% right). 48% to the fairway and the rest to the rough.  The average score is going to be around 5.14. Looking at the result with 3 wood and hybrid you are going to hit less balls in the fescue but because of having longer 2nd shots you are going to score slightly worst. 5.17 and 5.25 respectively.    Things changes when the fescue is taller and you are probably going to loose the ball so changing the penalty of hitting there playing a 3 wood or hybrid gives a better score in the hole.  Off course 30 yards between penalty hazards is way to small. You normally have 60 or more, in that cases the score is going to be more close to 5 and been the Driver the weapon of choice.  The point is to see that no matter how tight the hole is, depending on the hole sometimes Driver is the play and sometimes 6 irons is the play. Is easy to see that on easy holes, but holes like this:  you need to crunch the numbers to find the best strategy.     
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...