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is there such a thing as a game improvement driver?


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Ive,been smoking my 3W lately however with a straighter, more controled ball flight so I only hit driver on a wide par 5 anyways..maybe 2 or 3 times a round is all. Thats how great I am hitting 3w right now.....but its a hot 13,degree custom built 3w......stainless steel has a better feel than titanium to me anyways.

An old pro once told me this....."No matter what youre going through in life....Never sell your golf clubs."

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Lol meant to say most drivers are,45" in length but try hitting a 43.5" driver with a more forgiving, regular flex.

Actually, many drivers are now 45 1/2 to 46 inches in length. With today's forgiving heads, 44 1/2 inches is a good length. But you better have some lead tape or other adhesive weights on hand to adjust the Swingweight

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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I would really like to be able to hot a driver someday in your opinion if I do get a deep 3 for now and really work on hitting it consistently am I taking steps towards being able to hit a driver or am I just avoiding the inevitable? Also what is the difference between a deep 3 and a 3 wood? Sorry for thr rookie questions I hope your eyes dont roll completely out of your head ;)
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Your standard driver heads of the non-Tour and non-Pro variety tend to be more forgiving. But, as others have said, most drivers today have fairly high MOI (moment of inertia - a stable point at impact) to help keep the ball in play.

What you probably want to do is hit some drivers on the launch monitor, and have a clubfitter check out which one has the best launch angle. For a driver, shots too low cost you distance (yes, it's true...) and shots too high can cost you distance. You're trying to hit the middle range.

Since you're a beginner, you swing isn't stable yet - so, you mainly want to avoid drivers that hit too low or too high. An in-between model which you like will get you through the first couple of years. (When two clubs perform about the same, you select the one that gives you the most confidence.)

On 3 Woods... at least try out some 4Ws. Recent studies show that many golfers get more reliable contact with a 4W than a 3W, and thus equal or even better distance.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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I would really like to be able to hot a driver someday in your opinion if I do get a deep 3 for now and really work on hitting it consistently am I taking steps towards being able to hit a driver or am I just avoiding the inevitable? Also what is the difference between a deep 3 and a 3 wood? Sorry for thr rookie questions I hope your eyes dont roll completely out of your head ;)

The 3Deep and 910/913F.d are deep faced 3 woods.  The 3Deep offers lower lofts (13*) so the distance gap isn't as severe as with a traditional 3w (15*).  I hit the 3Deep close to the same distance as I'd hit my driver but much more accurately.  I play on two different courses, one has wide open fairways, so I can trust my driver more there.  The other course has very narrow fairways so I leave the driver home and use the 3Deep off the tee and another 3W off the turf.

The 3Deep is like hitting a driver from 8 years ago only with the forgiveness and technology of current woods.  The head is smaller, shaft length is shorter but the swing you make with it is very similar to driver so I think it's a good transition club.  It will give you more confidence and is easier to control.

Another option is to look at some of the smaller head drivers from the past like the Titleist 975J, 983.  These will be cheaper but lack some of the forgiveness newer woods have.

Joe Paradiso

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Note: This thread is 3869 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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