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Is the 460cc driver too difficult to hit for amatuers?


CarlOwen
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I have never been able to hit these 460cc drivers with any consistency. It feels like I'm swinging a small pillow at the end of a stick. Oftentimes, my ball stray so far right it's a goner.  It's not like a traditional slice, but a fade that just keeps going right until it is gone.

For 12 years I've been using a 10 degree Big Bertha Steelhead. The head size is smaller than a most current 3 woods. I like the way it feels "heavy" at the end of the shaft, almost like it is pulling your arms straight through follow-through. Whereas, with the 460cc, I don't get that sensation or feeling like I'm pulling through.

Do others feel this same way? Should I just get over over it and learn to join the big set?

Currently I drive the ball between 230-240 yards, with an occasional 260+/-

 

TaylorMade RBZ 3-PW

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TaylorMade  woods driver

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In my opinion, it's the shaft length more than it's the driver head size. At 46" long (I'm 5'11"), the driver swing feels completely awkward to me. I don't know off hand, but I'm willing to be the shaft length on your old driver's shaft is quite a bit shorter than anything you buy off the shelf. I have my driver cut down to 44", and I still choke down an inch.

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I have never been able to hit these 460cc drivers with any consistency. It feels like I'm swinging a small pillow at the end of a stick. Oftentimes, my ball stray so far right it's a goner.  It's not like a traditional slice, but a fade that just keeps going right until it is gone.

For 12 years I've been using a 10 degree Big Bertha Steelhead. The head size is smaller than a most current 3 woods. I like the way it feels "heavy" at the end of the shaft, almost like it is pulling your arms straight through follow-through. Whereas, with the 460cc, I don't get that sensation or feeling like I'm pulling through.

Do others feel this same way? Should I just get over over it and learn to join the big set?

Currently I drive the ball between 230-240 yards, with an occasional 260+/-

I have always struggled with them myself as well. I have never hit the 460 or the 440 driver very well. I agree with @anthony that a lot of it also has to do with the ridiculous shaft lengths they are putting on these things. I have been considering putting a smaller substitute back in the bag again for a while.

Nate

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Honestly I can't see the difference between my 460 and my 430. I also have a 410 head I haven't used yet and they all look the same size. For me more important than head size and shape is what shaft I use with it and how long. I don't use anything over 44", currently using a 12* 43" driver, both my accuracy and distance improved.

Dave :-)

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I have never been able to hit these 460cc drivers with any consistency. It feels like I'm swinging a small pillow at the end of a stick. Oftentimes, my ball stray so far right it's a goner.  It's not like a traditional slice, but a fade that just keeps going right until it is gone.

For 12 years I've been using a 10 degree Big Bertha Steelhead. The head size is smaller than a most current 3 woods. I like the way it feels "heavy" at the end of the shaft, almost like it is pulling your arms straight through follow-through. Whereas, with the 460cc, I don't get that sensation or feeling like I'm pulling through.

Do others feel this same way? Should I just get over over it and learn to join the big set?

Currently I drive the ball between 230-240 yards, with an occasional 260+/-

Yes, Buy a new 460 driver, far more forgiving, better dispersion and you'll hit a little further than your Bertha, the shaft will be more responsive too.

In my opinion, it's the shaft length more than it's the driver head size. At 46" long (I'm 5'11"), the driver swing feels completely awkward to me. I don't know off hand, but I'm willing to be the shaft length on your old driver's shaft is quite a bit shorter than anything you buy off the shelf. I have my driver cut down to 44", and I still choke down an inch.

Don't cut down a driver shaft, you'll throw off the swing weight. You are ruining it. Instead go get fitted, yes you may end up with a slightly shorter shaft, But at 5'11 a standard length shaft should be fine. Shafts come in different lengths and weights.Lastly go take a lesson or seeks some advice on how to hit a driver. Cutting down a shaft, heck you should just hit your 3 wood at 43-43.5 inches or a try taylormades mini driver,  You'll likely hit further.

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I have never been able to hit these 460cc drivers with any consistency. It feels like I'm swinging a small pillow at the end of a stick. Oftentimes, my ball stray so far right it's a goner.  It's not like a traditional slice, but a fade that just keeps going right until it is gone.

For 12 years I've been using a 10 degree Big Bertha Steelhead. The head size is smaller than a most current 3 woods. I like the way it feels "heavy" at the end of the shaft, almost like it is pulling your arms straight through follow-through. Whereas, with the 460cc, I don't get that sensation or feeling like I'm pulling through.

Do others feel this same way? Should I just get over over it and learn to join the big set?

Currently I drive the ball between 230-240 yards, with an occasional 260+/-

Get a steel shaft for any 460cc head, that will give you all the weighty feel you want. Dynamic Gold X100 or S300 wood shaft, X200 and X300 are even heavier, but are very stiff.

$18 plus installation and a grip. It would cost you less than $30 to try this out.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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I actually have both a Dunlop DMT and a Taylormade R-5. Obviously it's just my own particular experience with these particular clubs but I think the smaller Dunlop driver tends to be more reliable and the R-5 tends to be longer (at least when I hit it well). But like was previously mentioned, the Dunlop's length is a bit less than the R-5. That might be most of the difference.

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thanks for the responses.

So I suppose I'm fairly alone still using such a small headed driver? I would have thought a few might weigh in and say " hey no big deal, there's a number of us still using the old design" But alas I am really alone here.

I like the suggestion of using a steel shaft on a 460cc. This might be what I'm looking for. Along those lines, is there a 460cc that is heavier weighted than most? i.e. one that feels like I'm not swinging a little pillow?

the last thing I forgot to mention is I like to tee up very low, maybe 1.5 inches with my driver, so perhaps the very idea of having the tee peg nearly 3 inches off the ground is what screws me up?

I find the whole thing very vexing.

 

TaylorMade RBZ 3-PW

Titleist wedges 

TaylorMade  woods driver

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This is why I like component drivers and fairways. You can build it any way you want. If you are interested in smaller heads look at Bang golf. They have heads from 320cc and up. Tips weights and light grips can help clubs feel heavier.

Dave :-)

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The xhot I hit is 47". The oem shaft was 46. The bigger head that far away works for me, as does the draw design, as it can be hard to square a long club. It swings around an E with a V2 7075 S flex. When I hit shorter drivers in the 44.5-45" range I like 440cc heads. They seem to swing better. What would be a tough combo for me is a small head and long shaft. The size of the head is relevant to club length and consistency.

Tom R.

TM R1 on a USTv2, TM 3wHL on USTv2, TM Rescue 11 in 17,TM udi #3, Rocketbladez tour kbs reg, Mack Daddy 50.10,54.14,60.14, Cleveland putter

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A higher MOI of the clubhead around the shaft in the bigger headed driver is probably making it harder for you to square the club face. This is a separate MOI from the MOI that gives forgiveness across the face on off center hits. Read or scroll down to where it talks about the second type of MOI in this article. http://golf.about.com/od/faqs/f/moi.htm "The second example refers to the MOI of the clubhead about the shaft axis. Little is spoken about this MOI in equipment marketing, but it is an important head design factor that can affect the accuracy of the shot, not the distance. The bigger the head or the more weight that is placed far out on the toe of the clubhead, the higher the MOI of the head will be about the shaft's axis. The smaller the head or the more weight that is positioned in the heel area of the head, the lower the MOI of the head will be about the shaft's axis. The higher the clubhead MOI around the shaft, the more tendency there is for a golfer to leave the face open at impact. The lower the clubhead MOI around the shaft, the more tendency there is for a golfer to rotate the face more closed at impact."
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The SLDR drivers feel heavy

Rich C.

Driver Titleist 915 D3  9.5*
3 Wood TM RBZ stage 2 tour  14.5*
2 Hybrid Cobra baffler 17*
4Hybrid Adams 23*
Irons Adams CB2's 5-GW
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Putter Scotty Cameron square back 2014
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thanks for the responses.  So I suppose I'm fairly alone still using such a small headed driver? I would have thought a few might weigh in and say " hey no big deal, there's a number of us still using the old design" But alas I am really alone here. I like the suggestion of using a steel shaft on a 460cc. This might be what I'm looking for. Along those lines, is there a 460cc that is heavier weighted than most? i.e. one that feels like I'm not swinging a little pillow? the last thing I forgot to mention is I like to tee up very low, maybe 1.5 inches with my driver, so perhaps the very idea of having the tee peg nearly 3 inches off the ground is what screws me up? I find the whole thing very vexing.

Get a head with a port (like many TM clubs) in it so you can put hot melt into it. That's what all the pros do. The can add up to 100 grams to the head. More typical is 10 to 30 grams. Golfsmith sells a "no rattle" product that can be used in place of hot melt. With steel shafts you can add more tungsten powder instead.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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With a big-ol' 460cc driver.......It's almost impossible not to make halfway solid contact with one of these.  I suspect you'll find it even more difficult to hit a smaller-head driver well.  my2 cents...

What's in Paul's Bag:
- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Driver
- Big Bertha Alpha 815 3-wood
- Callaway Razr Fit 5-wood
- Callaway Big Bertha 4-5 Rescue Clubs
-- Mizuno Mx-25 six iron-gap wedge
- Mizuno Mp-T4 56degree SW
- Mizuno Mp-T11 60degree SW
- Putter- Ping Cadence Ketsch

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With a big-ol' 460cc driver.......It's almost impossible not to make halfway solid contact with one of these.  I suspect you'll find it even more difficult to hit a smaller-head driver well.  my2 cents...

Obviously you haven't seen my driver swing..... :-$

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I am an 18 HCP and 62 years old with a back like a potato chip, but can hit the 460CC as long as I hit the original Big Bertha 15 years ago.  I play a Ping G15, and if I lined the ball up just inside my left foot I would slice every drive since I cannot make a downswing with a quick enough turn to square the long club.  What I do, and I get some funny looks, is play the ball forward of my left foot a couple of inches.  I have found that I can go after it and my back can make the turn in plenty of time for the forward ball. At that point I can finish through with 460cc of titanium and smack the ball a long way for this 18 HCP, occasionally 250+.

So no, the 460cc longer driver is not too difficult to hit for amateurs - I wish these were available when I was a flexible youngster of 42!

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I am an 18 HCP and 62 years old with a back like a potato chip, but can hit the 460CC as long as I hit the original Big Bertha 15 years ago.  I play a Ping G15, and if I lined the ball up just inside my left foot I would slice every drive since I cannot make a downswing with a quick enough turn to square the long club.  What I do, and I get some funny looks, is play the ball forward of my left foot a couple of inches.  I have found that I can go after it and my back can make the turn in plenty of time for the forward ball. At that point I can finish through with 460cc of titanium and smack the ball a long way for this 18 HCP, occasionally 250+.

So no, the 460cc longer driver is not too difficult to hit for amateurs - I wish these were available when I was a flexible youngster of 42!

Perspective changes doesn't it? I never thought of 42 as young before you mentioned it. :roll:

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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I feel pretty good at 46. Dang sure a lot more athletic than my folks pushing 70. Everyone has a different apex. So far I still haven't encountered many young guys that hit the ball further and in the intended direction as I do. I have played with older guys that absolutely kill it, lifetime golfer types. About the only thing I can't do like I used to is sprint.

Dave :-)

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Note: This thread is 3561 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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