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Master "Forged vs. Cast" or "Blade vs. Game-Improvement" Iron Thread - Page 72

post #1279 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by x129 View Post

Well it depends on your definition of cool.

 

Aaayyyyyyyeeeeee!  Just call me "Fonzie".  My bag is pretty much evenly gaped from wedge to driver, and I am pretty consistent with what I have (so far).  None of my gear matches, except the irons.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mosnas View Post

 In all honesty I don't care what category my clubs are in I hit them and they work thats all that matters to me.

 

 

I am the same.  I could care less what others think about my bag composition.

post #1280 of 1389

i bought MB's to force me to improve my game,....it worked, sort of, its amazing how quickly you get bored of the club vibrating your hands off and learn to hit it off centre

post #1281 of 1389

OK, OK, everybody. Blades, musclebacks, whatever. I still say they are playable for anybody if you stay away from the 2-4. I have some 1998 Hogan Apex's, a set of Red Lines, and a set of Grinds that are each a pure joy. 

post #1282 of 1389

I got a Mizzuno MP-58 6 Iron off ebay to see how I can hit it.  Its got a regular shaft and I usually use stiff.

 

So far, I find that my mishits with the MP58 tend to be MUCH straighter, but shorter and lower, compared to my Burner (2009) irons.  I can hit it further with the burners, but the lofts are a jacked so I don't know that that's a fair comparison.  I would say that the biggest difference is that if I mishit the Burners I still get a lot of distance, but it can fly way right or left which causes more trouble than a straight but short.  I also hit it much higher with the burners.  

 

When I tried to shape it, I could bend it MORE with the Burners, but more predictably with the MP58s.  

 

Is this normal?  It makes me think I might be better off with more of a player's style iron.

post #1283 of 1389

How about we coin a new term: Blayd - any player's iron that has a thin top line, thin sole, small head, minimal offset, and is responsive to the player's swing and provides optimal feedback, regardless of the configuration of the backside?

 

dsc, I think you would enjoy a set of blayds. Come join the Dark Side!

post #1284 of 1389

Blavities?

post #1285 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by moparman426 View Post

Blavities?

 

"Blayd" and "Blavity" are terms for referring to blade-like cavity backs.

post #1286 of 1389

Nice! Or maybe..

 

Muscle cavities?

 

Cavitades?

post #1287 of 1389
Or you could just go with a new word altogether.
post #1288 of 1389

post #1289 of 1389

Gaijan, one person's opinion never really counts as "proof" of anything.

 

He hit clubs with two different designs. MP-53 vs. JPX-800? C'mon.

post #1290 of 1389

i know the difference between cast and forged. and even after reading something, which mentioned placing cast and forged irons in tour players hands without manufacturer names. In the end, feel is really no different. Although my opinion is a bit unbiased. forged irons are softer in coposition, but tend to have a little more "solid" feel even when hit pure. now notice i said solid. NOT "hard". i remember having my first set of cast irons. reasons i gave them to my dad and then bought the forged irons i have now is because i had no idea what i did wrong when i hit the face. slightly off center in either direction (heel-toe) felt like it was hit perfectly. i also couldnt control flight, or even distance very well.

 

with my forged irons i can do the things i struggled with before. i can now lay off of a pitching wedge and the distance actually be less with much better control. when i hit offcenter i can tell. i can even tell before i see the flight if i push or pulled the shot. (mostly pushed shots as the forged cavity back with minimal offset and might be a bit toe weight, does tend to prevent "the big hook"

 

My biggest question is the difference between a carbon cast wedge (8620) and a forged wedge (1018). now i know this can vary. bounce loft and so on.

 

the reason i picked 1018 is because im considering getting a scratch wedge. preference in finding the budget route, seeing scratch sell the 1018 for 179 bucks! WHOA!

 

not many companies actually do forged techniques anymore. its too time consuming and there are other less expensive, faster ways of making a club respond the same. its really all because of the supply and demand. as well as the new grooves rule which i mention next.

 

saying that the 8620 and 1018 have the same bounce/sole grind combination, shaft, shaft flex, and grip. What exactly are the differences? ive been told that 8620 is also being used because it holds up better which is always for tour players given the groove stipulations being enforced.meaning it might feel a bit more solid than a softer forging comparison. its nice that scratch almost gives us the exact version of each type for us to kindve give us the ability to create an opinion.

post #1291 of 1389

Been contemplating the switch to a forged CB or MB iron.  I hit 20 balls each with the Callaway X Forged and Mizuno MP 60 today.  Both had fairly similar results and felt great but I'm not sure which one to get... Ugh!

post #1292 of 1389

A buddy of mine who has honed his game to the mini tour point told me to get a old MB 3 iron and learn how to consistently hit it pure. He says when you can hit that pure every time, you can hit anything.....

post #1293 of 1389

How much difference between "game improvement" and "Player's forged irons"?

I play Titleist 755 forged irons.  They are not forgiving.  I am not good enough to play these irons.  However they were a hand-me-down that I have appreciated immensely for many years.  I am not fitted to these clubs but I did have them shortened 1/2" (I am only 5'8" with golf shoes on).

 

My flight is medium-high with a slight fade.  I find that I pull shots sometimes (once or twice a round) and a shot that I feel that was struck decently will not "Get up" and ends up in a low screamer once or twice a round.  That adds up to four bad shots that I feel would have been "OK" with different irons.  I have not played GI irons but know that I could benefit from them.

 

Convince me to buy the AP1's...

post #1294 of 1389

Buy them. They're amazing!!!

 

(I have no clue, but you wanted convincing...so...)

post #1295 of 1389
The shots you feel we're hit decently but in fact weren't will not be any different.
And forget the "forged" bit. That has nothing to do with your issue, or the clubs.
post #1296 of 1389
I have the older version of the same club you're playing. Titleist is well known for great products, but are typically harder to hit/require more precise ball striking than most. I too am looking to get into new clubs and have been searching everything under the sun. Mizuno 825 Pro's is on my short list and I've hit them on launch monitors. They do produce a higher ball flight than my Titleist 704CB's, but I"m looking for the low-mid ball flight. The AP1 is a fine club, but you will give up the sweet forged feel. GI irons are designed for mid-high handicappers that need more forgiveness. I think if you can maintain a 10.5 handi with 755's, you may be dissapointed with the look and feel of most GI irons. Clubs like the 825 Pro's may appeal to you more - forged, with forged feel and a players look, especially in the scoring irons. There are lots of "players" clubs out there offering forgiveness and producing whatever ball flight you're after. Personally, I'm considering mixing sets to get the forgiveness out of my longer irons - 4,5 and maybe 6 - and more player profile in my scoring irons. It's a great time to be in the buying market, as there is lots to choose from! Do yourself a favor and shop around. Enjoy amac
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