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What happens if shafts are too stiff? - Page 2

post #19 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lihu View Post
 

 

 

Sure, I agree. It was more or less an experiment.

 

Now that my son likes the i20s, I need start to seriously look at other alternatives. I might get him the i25's or something.


Sounds like your son is left handed too?  If so hang onto those mizunos and see if he grows into them or at worst changes out to stiff flex. I don't know if I'm alone on this thought but having x flex shafts in irons especially an iron like that is a big deal, whoever can hit those irons can flat out play.

post #20 of 42

Too stiff shafts loose distance and feel IMO. Please take no offence but with your index M33 are probably not the right clubs. Also a 9 iron is not a 9 iron different club have different lofts. That is done so the manufacturer can advertise our 7 iron goes 10 yards further. One 9 may be 38 degrees another may be 42, 10 yards different.

post #21 of 42
I really love my mp33s but you better be on the ball to game them. I played my best ever round last year with them but when I was off, I paid for it.
post #22 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valleygolfer View Post

I really love my mp33s but you better be on the ball to game them. I played my best ever round last year with them but when I was off, I paid for it.


I played with them at San Dimas Canyon, and got my first birdie when I was playing with them, really don't know what happened that day. All my irons were really good.

 

Still, it's time to start looking for another GI club. They are way more solid for my playing ability.

post #23 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by keiyoz View Post

i don't think i have any business playing my stiff shafts...but i bought the clubs used with very little club knowledge.

the misses seem to be right, although they aren't exactly low... but definitely right. i am also noticeably shorter than my playing buddies who are of similar handicap...

i have really warmed up to the irons, but the longest one i carry is a 5i.


You could maybe try inserts in your shoes if it's that important to you, might be less noticeable.

post #24 of 42
Are i20's considered GI clubs? I thought those were the G series. What about the AP1's - are those considered GI clubs? I'm likely to buy a new iron set this year and wondering if someone with my HC should consider these type of clubs.
post #25 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFKFREAK View Post

Are i20's considered GI clubs? I thought those were the G series. What about the AP1's - are those considered GI clubs? I'm likely to buy a new iron set this year and wondering if someone with my HC should consider these type of clubs.

On the Maltby scale, the Ping i-series and Titleist AP2s are generally either in or very close to "game improvement" irons.

That having been said, if your handicap is north of 25, I'd prioritize AP1 or G-series over AP2 or i-series.
post #26 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shindig View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RFKFREAK View Post

Are i20's considered GI clubs? I thought those were the G series. What about the AP1's - are those considered GI clubs? I'm likely to buy a new iron set this year and wondering if someone with my HC should consider these type of clubs.

On the Maltby scale, the Ping i-series and Titleist AP2s are generally either in or very close to "game improvement" irons.

That having been said, if your handicap is north of 25, I'd prioritize AP1 or G-series over AP2 or i-series.

Yeah, that's what I figured.

The reason I ask is because I was at GolfSmith a couple weeks ago and I told the salesman what I shoot and he was steering me away from the AP1 and stuff I shouldn't spend that much on a set of clubs.
post #27 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFKFREAK View Post

The reason I ask is because I was at GolfSmith a couple weeks ago and I told the salesman what I shoot and he was steering me away from the AP1 and stuff I shouldn't spend that much on a set of clubs.

Oh, that I agree with completely. You can get a full set of Maltby/GolfWorks clubs for far less than Titleist will charge you a1_smile.gif
post #28 of 42

Not really

 

Lets say you even get the $20 dollar clubheads, that's $160 for a set of 8

Dynamic gold shafts, $152 

Grips installation, $65 

Shaft Installation, $160 dollars

 

total $537

 

Lets throw in tax, $575 dollars now

 

That isn't including shipping for the shafts, clubheads, and other materials. 

 

So your spending nearly $575 dollars for a cheap set of clubs. You can get a set of last year pings for near that. 

 

Ala' Cart is pricey because those companies don't have the funds to offer their clubs at a cheaper. Basic economics, the more volume a company produces each unit price for the next unit will cost less. Meaning for money for value, its better to go with name brand because they can afford better technology, marketing, planing, research. 

post #29 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by saevel25 View Post

Not really

In case this is referenced to my suggestion that GolfWorks clubs can be had much more cheaply.

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_PMA0175 <-- good set of irons, 4 through G (8 clubs), including True Temper shafts -- not dynamic gold, but good shafts just the same; also includes decent grips and ferrules. $180 for just the parts, or +$40 to have them assemble them (they periodically offer free assembly on all packs, but let's say they don't).

Tell them your specs -- easy enough to find out this information for free. When I was considering new clubs (the 3-4 times I've done so in my golfing time), I asked each company at a demo day for which setting of theirs to consider (and I disregarded any company that asked me about my score and said "standard length, R-flex" without so much as watching me swing). The answers I got (from companies that didn't just give a stock answer without any thought) were common enough that I'm comfortable applying those specs to my component clubs.

If you build them, you can obviously have them set to your specs. Otherwise, they do it -- tell them the flex, whether you want it soft or hard stepped (if you do), grip build-up, etc.

So... $220, plus tax and shipping. Less than half of your estimate, even if NY (RFKFreak's state of residence) has taxes as high as California.
post #30 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shindig View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by saevel25 View Post

Not really

In case this is referenced to my suggestion that GolfWorks clubs can be had much more cheaply.

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_PMA0175 <-- good set of irons, 4 through G (8 clubs), including True Temper shafts -- not dynamic gold, but good shafts just the same; also includes decent grips and ferrules. $180 for just the parts, or +$40 to have them assemble them (they periodically offer free assembly on all packs, but let's say they don't).

Tell them your specs -- easy enough to find out this information for free. When I was considering new clubs (the 3-4 times I've done so in my golfing time), I asked each company at a demo day for which setting of theirs to consider (and I disregarded any company that asked me about my score and said "standard length, R-flex" without so much as watching me swing). The answers I got (from companies that didn't just give a stock answer without any thought) were common enough that I'm comfortable applying those specs to my component clubs.

If you build them, you can obviously have them set to your specs. Otherwise, they do it -- tell them the flex, whether you want it soft or hard stepped (if you do), grip build-up, etc.

So... $220, plus tax and shipping. Less than half of your estimate, even if NY (RFKFreak's state of residence) has taxes as high as California.

 

 

I like the price. Unfortunately, no left handed iron products from Golfworks.

post #31 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by saevel25 View Post
 

Not really

 

Lets say you even get the $20 dollar clubheads, that's $160 for a set of 8

Dynamic gold shafts, $152 

Grips installation, $65 

Shaft Installation, $160 dollars

 

total $537

 

Lets throw in tax, $575 dollars now

 

That isn't including shipping for the shafts, clubheads, and other materials. 

 

So your spending nearly $575 dollars for a cheap set of clubs. You can get a set of last year pings for near that. 

 

Ala' Cart is pricey because those companies don't have the funds to offer their clubs at a cheaper. Basic economics, the more volume a company produces each unit price for the next unit will cost less. Meaning for money for value, its better to go with name brand because they can afford better technology, marketing, planing, research. 

From my experience, it's 10$ per club to have golfworks assemble them for you. So that's a bit under 500. Then you can knock the rest of the assembly fee off altogether if you buy basic tools for under 50$. 

 

As for the Pings, yes you can get last year's set for cheap but they don't have dynamic gold so it's not a fair comparison. You actually have no choice in terms of the shaft at all. That's why I didn't go for off the rack irons. I could have gotten a used set with decent shafts but it wasn't worth spending the same money for beat up clubs plus 8 new grips.

 

For a set without dynamic gold, Golfworks offers a package of 8 clubs assembled and adjusted for 285. I'd probably consider that set to be more comparable to ping's stock options. I think in this case the Pings are nicer but they're also around double the cost.

 

And if you want premium shafts and grips, the components become a much better deal versus going through retail for custom clubs or buying entire off the rack sets and reshafting them, paying for but wasting the stock shafts and grips. Try buying a set of irons of any kind with C tapers for example; you get upcharged in most cases for the full amount it costs to buy the shaft in addition to sky high prices, and most of the time they won't offer an 8 iron set. Any shaft that's not KBS tour or dynamic gold and you're screwed by the custom departments. Believe me the premium shafts can be worth it for many people but the heads are overpriced as hell. 

 

For a full set of 8 irons, you may be getting a very slightly nicer head (Components can't touch something like an MP4 but they can match the MP54 for example) than components but you can't get this shaft in a 3-PW set for under 1100$ or so for the current models, and that includes adams who used it as the stock model. Titleist for example charges about 1300 for their blades in this configuration, for example. I paid about 600$. If 500$ is worth it to have brand name clubs with the same specs and shafts then by all means buy what you want.

 

@Lihu http://www.golfworks.com/category.asp_Q_pc_E_1_A_c_E_677_A_c2c_E_ln There isn't much but it's there. You could probably do better from Hireko, http://www.hirekogolf.com/golf-components/clubheads/golf-irons.html?hand=54 

post #32 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lihu View Post


I like the price. Unfortunately, no left handed iron products from Golfworks.

Same set I suggested, same price, in left handed: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_PMA0175L

(FWIW, I've been playing KE4 U30s for about two and a half years, ever since I found out that I wouldn't be able to play as often as I did when I was in school. Knowing what I know now about the relative importance of various things in the iron striking world, I think I made the right choice, even as I get back to playing more)
post #33 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuciusWooding View Post
 

@Lihu http://www.golfworks.com/category.asp_Q_pc_E_1_A_c_E_677_A_c2c_E_ln There isn't much but it's there. You could probably do better from Hireko, http://www.hirekogolf.com/golf-components/clubheads/golf-irons.html?hand=54 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shindig View Post


Same set I suggested, same price, in left handed: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_PMA0175L

(FWIW, I've been playing KE4 U30s for about two and a half years, ever since I found out that I wouldn't be able to play as often as I did when I was in school. Knowing what I know now about the relative importance of various things in the iron striking world, I think I made the right choice, even as I get back to playing more)

 

 

 

Thanks, this is pretty good. I didn't think to look for the LH "model" I was trying to configure the RH set for LH.

 

Great information. I might get a set to replace my Ping i20.

 

They also look fully configurable. The weights etc. Hireko looks very interesting as well.

post #34 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lihu View Post
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, this is pretty good. I didn't think to look for the LH "model" I was trying to configure the RH set for LH.

 

Great information. I might get a set to replace my Ping i20.

 

They also look fully configurable. The weights etc. Hireko looks very interesting as well.

My brother uses the XK pro iron from hireko, which I don't think they make anymore. They are fairly nice and good clubs for a bit of extra distance and forgiveness but medium small profile. I'd probably class them as a tweener players iron like the I20. If I had to I could play those irons without much adjustment even though I like mine better. I'd say the XF pro looks pretty much the same so that's the only one I can personally recommend.

post #35 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shindig View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by saevel25 View Post

Not really

Tell them your specs -- easy enough to find out this information for free. 

Please excuse my ignorance but how can you find this information easily for free?

post #36 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFKFREAK View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shindig View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by saevel25 View Post

Not really

Tell them your specs -- easy enough to find out this information for free. 

Please excuse my ignorance but how can you find this information easily for free?

 

 

You can use some on line fitting estimates:

http://www.pinemeadowgolf.com/cfw/

 

The main thing is to get all the geometric stuff fitted. Your physical characteristics. Although this thread is about shaft stiffness, these are the most important things to get right. The grip type is also very crucial so that you don't over-grip the club.

 

Shaft stiffness will only change the timing, and the impact could be weak and low because if your swing does not flex the shaft enough that the face kicks up at impact. This means that you are not optimally getting the best distances and flight, which is the thread topic.

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