help on my driver and wedges

I have two totally different questions. first of as a background, I was fitted as a standard length with a +2* lie. my irons hit hit straight and well. but my driver and wedges I am having problems with.

Driver 7.5* 44.5 length shaft stiff. titleist 975-d. when I hit it on the sweet spot and dont slice it it goes 285-305 on average. but some days I can't hit it straight so it is useless to play. I seem to hit the toe more often than I would like as well. confidence is down and it is just a problem teeing up and not feeling confident I will still relatively close to the fairway so I result in using my 3 iron or 5 wood which is straight or a slight manageable fade that falls maybe 15 feet right of target.
My question is do you guys think if I cut the shaft down some so I can get more control would it help. I grew up hitting an actual wood 1 driver with a small head and could pound balls 250 easy and they were straight or a slight fade like my irons are now. any help is well appreciated. Now to wedges.

I got the cleveland 588 wedges std. 54 and 60 degree. havent had them for maybe a month. but it seems like the last 3 rounds I have played I have been skulling them often. only happens with these wedges. my irons are 3-pw ping i-3 o size and the ping wedge I have never done this. I know it must be a flaw in my swing and I think it may be because I usually skim the grass and do not take a divot. I guess i scoop the ball more than strike down on it.

My question is what would make me skull these and not my pw? I am new to play courses as I would just hit off a mat at the range. Now I am more into the most addictive sport alive and would like to fix this. If I get my drive straight and my wedges from skulling I could shoot in the low 80's easy. but these two dilemmas have me shooting high 80's and low 90's. any input would be appreciated. i can get some video later of my swing if needed.

The weighting of a PW that belongs to an iron set is different than a sand wedge that does not belong to the iron set. The SW could possible be heavier and shorter, but it's supposed to so that's not much of a problem.

It's hard to really say anything without a video, but I would tinker around with standing closer to the ball, or getting getting your hands lower.

Driver
1) don't cut the driver, buy another driver 460cc
2) If you hit the toe of the driver, address the ball at the heel of the driver
to make solid contact

wedge
1) skull is making contact on the upswing.
2) play the ball back in your stance
3) forward press
4) don't sway but rotate

thanks for the replies. keep them coming.

ks8829- buying 460cc driver would help with slice? please explain. if I consider another driver, should I get an offset driver? I see there are new drivers with "draw" would you make this purchase or just keep trying to learn with a traditional 460cc? thanks again.

Do you still have the wood driver? I assume it was persimmon. 250 and consistently straight beats spraying 285-305 every time.

That's what I've just started doing and it's helped tremendously.

That is how I was taught to hit wedges too.... Are you sure your not the local pro at my Course??

All those suggestions have helped me to start being more consistent. Great tips!