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Improve Your Game with Shaped Shots


kc8kir
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Ok, so per the title, this thread is to educate golfers on ways to learn to shape shots, to improve your chances at reaching par.

Before we get into methods of how to shape shots, let's explain why it is important to your golfing success. Now, as you can see by my handicap, I'm no expert, but I have learned very quickly the value of shaping shots and playing what Jack Nicklaus called "percentage golf". According to Jack, you should never try to play a shot, especially a drive, dead straight. His reasoning is simple. A straight shot, has a chance to go either direction. A shaped shot cuts that in half. You know the shot will go right or left, you just have to control how much. We are no longer expecting ourselves to play a game of absolute perfection. Ben Hogan himself stated "I never tried to hit a straight shot".

There is a wonderful diagram in "Golf My Way" showing an approach shot to a green with the pin on the right side (not tucked, just on the right side). The drawing shows why using a fade in that situation gives the best chance at par. Aiming for the fade to hit the pin, an accidental straight shot would land 15 feet left of the pin, leeving a 15 ft putt. If the fade is overdone, and becomes a slice, the ball will land 15 ft right of the pin, leaving a 15 ft putt. The perfectly executed fade will land at the pin.

Now the argument has been made "well someone hitting straight may just draw a little, or fade a little, leaving the same chances". I would agree, except that the actual execution, and the margin for success at hitting that perfectly straight shot, are much harder. Consider how many things must be perfect to hit a straight shot. The more room for error we give ourselves, the better chances we also recieve to hit an acceptable shot.

Shaping shots also has tactical advantages. Say you have a left to right sloped green with the pin on the left, high on the green. From a right side approach, what shot do you play? If your only shot is a fade, you may be out of luck. A draw would allow you to use the slope as a backstop and improve your chances of ending up on the high side of the green, nearer the pin.

Driving is particularly well suited to shot shaping. Assume for a moment that the average fairway is only 30 yards wide. Hitting a straight shot, you only have 15 yards on each side for error. Hitting a shaped shot aimed down one side, projected to fade or draw into the center, you have 30 yards of error, knowing you can and will make the ball curve the desired direction.

This is percentage golf, learning to play the course with your aresenal of shots to give you the best chance at par possible (or GIR as the case may be - if someone figures out how to shape putts, let me know).

Ok, so onto the "how-to". I recommend trying the technique below with a mid-iron (7-8) until you get the feel of the shots. This technique was the favorite of both Jack Nicklaus and Ben Hogan. Ben had a great saying to describe it, "When you want to change the shape, turn the tool in the chuck. Don't go messing around with the entire machine." So hear it is, paraphrased from Nicklaus:

Draw or fade: Align your stance to the direction you want the ball to start, then turn the club face, readjusting your grip, so that the line of the clubface faces your target. Now swing along you foot line as if you were hitting a shot in the direction you want the ball to start. Naturally, the ball flight will be lower and hotter with the draw, and higher and softer with the fade (depending on how much you change the angle on the face). The number one mistake with this technique is people overcook the shot by trying to control the wrist turnover and add more the shape. Just let the wrists release naturally. Also, be sure not to angle the face too much. Remember, we are looking to draw or fade the ball, not hook or slice it.

High or Low: Move the ball forward in the stance and (optional) open the face to hit it high (and shorter), move it back in the stance and (optional) close the face to hit it lower.

With some practice with the mid-iron, you will quickly get a feel for how much is too much using these techniques and shapes involved. My advice is to think of it like throwing a frisbee and trying to curve it into a target. I spent an entire day at the range once, just hitting 6 iron draws, working on gauging the amount of draw to hit the practice green as many times as possible. Eventually, I hit far more shots onto the green than I ever would have trying to hitting just straight shots. That mid-iron draw has proven very valuable on the course and is a favorite shot for me.

I invite you to respond with alternative shot-shaping techniques, other shaped shots (cuts, punches, stingers) or your own personal stories with learning and executing shaped shots.

Good luck, and don't hit 'em straight... hit 'em curved!
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I disagree with this for the average golfer. You need to get a swing that replicates before you try and work the ball.

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Ive tried shapshifting but end up with a bingo card at the end of the round.I go along with Lemay,get a repeatable swing going before trying "advanced techniques". (I think I have some way to go!)

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You don't have to shape shots during a round, but it's helpful to try during practice, to help you figure things out. If you have a big old slice, it would help to learn how to hit a hook.

On occasion, if you're well off the fairway on your drive and have a big opening and a good lie, it might be worth it to get the extra yardage with a hook or slice as opposed to just punching out.

I tend to shape my shots, both ways. I just don't know which one is coming, or when.

Steve

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Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I was not trying to imply that someone who never picked up a club before should simply go out and start trying to shape the ball flight. There is no argument that would lead to disaster. I was simply trying to get a discussion going on the benefits of shot shaping, and to help dispell the myth that "working the ball" is something only for the pros.

I apologize for the confusion.
Favorite Practice Course:
Z Boaz Municipal, Fort Worth <<< Ben Hogan grew up playing here!
--------------------------------------------------

In the bag: 983E 9.5*, Fuji Speeder S RPM LP, 4W, Neutral Bias STAFF Ci6 irons, S (going up for sale soon) Tom Watson PVD 08 Wedges (G.S,L)... and a 4...
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Appreciate the tips. Although most newer players probably don't need to try to work the ball, there are the occasional people who actually find it easier to hit a draw or fade than trying to hit it straight. Whatever works for you, go with it.

An easy way to hit a "baby draw" or "baby fade" is by simply set up, address the ball, and pull your back foot straight back 2" to hit a draw, or your front foot 2" straight back for a fade, and hit on the same line as you were lined up.
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Appreciate the tips. Although most newer players probably don't need to try to work the ball, there are the occasional people who actually find it easier to hit a draw or fade than trying to hit it straight. Whatever works for you, go with it.

Absolutely. Easy as that. And it works.

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It helps to understand ball flight in order to figure out how to fade or draw. At relative clubhead speed (75 to 120 mph), launch direction is determined roughly by 2/3 face angle and 1/3 clubhead direction. The slower the speed, the more face angle will impact launch direction, but the variences are so small it is safe to figure 1/3 2/3 for any full shot. What this means is, in order to hit a draw, path must be in/out with the face open to the target but closed to the path.

I do agree with the idea that it is far better for beginers and middle level players to learn to master a square, straight shot prior to learning shaping. It is kind of like billiards in that respect. Learn to shoot straight pool first so you know and can execute all your angles and speeds, then learning to apply english is relatively easy.
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I had an approach shot behind a tall tree. I was approaching a green with the ball in the front for 134 yards and I had to hit over water. It's hard to fade a game improvement iron but I needed to cut around the stupid tree from my bad shot.

I could have easily gone from bad to worse. Even though it was a bogey, it would have been better than a Snowman.

I could have attempted to hit a high shot over the tall tree but I would have heard a splash for sure. If I hit straight, I would had a long chip and/or a long putt to a downhill hole.

Straight is not always the best shot. Sometimes you need to work the ball.

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Note: This thread is 5682 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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