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Do You Need to Use Golf Club Epoxy?


mad max
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My 9 iron head had become loose and i twisted it until it came off. I than cleaned the epoxy out and then sanded inside the hosel and cleaned with acetone, do I need special golf epoxy or can I use regular epoxy to reattach the club-head? I know I should have a pro do the work but this will give me something to do and I will not have to wait for the club to be ready. If their is a thread that has already discussed this please point me in the right direction, thanks in advance Max.

R9 with 757 Speeder
mp 57 3-pw project x 6.0 flighted
Vokey* 56* 60*
Monza Corsa Putter

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I've used regular epoxy to fix a sandwedge club head. It worked fine, but I ended up having to fix it again about six months later (again with epoxy). Be sure to let the epoxy set for several days( I didn't the first time)

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I've used regular epoxy to fix a sandwedge club head. It worked fine, but I ended up having to fix it again about six months later (again with epoxy). Be sure to let the epoxy set for several days( I didn't the first time)

Great thanks for the quick response I better do it tonight so I can play this weekend because if I don't I will have nothing but 140 yard shots all day

R9 with 757 Speeder
mp 57 3-pw project x 6.0 flighted
Vokey* 56* 60*
Monza Corsa Putter

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My 9 iron head had become loose and i twisted it until it came off. I than cleaned the epoxy out and then sanded inside the hosel and cleaned with acetone, do I need special golf epoxy or can I use regular epoxy to reattach the club-head? I know I should have a pro do the work but this will give me something to do and I will not have to wait for the club to be ready. If their is a thread that has already discussed this please point me in the right direction, thanks in advance Max.

My understanding is that the golf club epoxy releases at a lower temperature, so if you have to remove it in the future, you don't overheat everything. If it's a club you care about, I would use the lower temp golf epoxy for this reason.

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In the bag:
Driver: Rapture V2, 9 degree, stiff shaft
Fairway Woods: X-Hot 3 wood
Hybrid: 3H
Irons: J36 PC 4-PW Project X 6.0 Shafts, FlightedWedges: CG14, 50 54 and 58 degree Putter: Guerin Rife 2 Bar with Winn grip B330S Pro V1x

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You don't have to use golf club epoxy but you are best advised to look for one that a) cures in 18 hours or longer (short setting epoxys generally don't acquire the same strength as slower ones) and b) has a high lap shear strength (> ~2500 p.s.i., 3000+ if you can find it).

Make sure you set it in temperatures > ~16°C.
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Home Course: Wollaton Park GC, Nottingham, U.K.

Ping G400, 9°, Alta CB 55S | Ping G400, 14°, Alta CB 65S | Adams Pro Dhy 18°, 21°, 24°, KBS Hybrid S | Ping S55 5-PW, TT DGS300 | Vokey 252-08, DGS200 | Vokey 256-10 (bent to 58°), DGS200 | Ping Sigma G Anser, 34" | Vice Pro Plus

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You are fine. I did a 5-iron with regular epoxy. It has held up for a few years now.

I have also used quick drying golf epoxy that has held up as well.

I'm down to a 10 handicap. At this rate, I'll get to scratch at 90 years old!

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  • 1 month later...
Max,

If you've got a GolfSmith or Golf Galaxy store near you, they sell an expoxy kit that will attach the head in around 10 minutes. Before you use the expoxy, use a drill to break the grip tape at the butt end of the golf grip. Go thru the drill hole at the back of the grip. When you try to attach the head, you'll create a vacuum in the shaft and the head won't attach correctly. By breaking the tape, you'll be able to attach the head with no problems.

Reagrds,
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  • 3 years later...

Once, I was in a hurry and used quick setting ("5 minute") epoxy, the kind that comes in a dual syringe. I build two wedges and, while one of them has held up well, the head on the other started working loose after about 8 rounds. I tore it apart, cleaned it up and have never used anything but golf epoxy since.

YMMV

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Other end of the spectrum... I have never used golf epoxy, and have never had separation.  5 minute, 30 minute, 24 hour.....whatever is on the shelf.  Even 5 minute epoxy continues to cure after the five minutes are up.  They all do.

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One time I used JB Weld to fix a golf club.  Let's just say it was a permanent fix.  Tried to have that set reshafted later on and we had some issues with getting the shaft out of that particular club.  The whole resistant to 600 degrees farenheit might have been the problem.  LOL!

Driver:  Callaway Diablo Octane 9.5*
3W:  Callaway GBB II 12.5*, 5W:  Callaway Diablo 18* Neutral
3H:  Callaway Razr X, 4H:  Callaway Razr X
5-PW:  Callaway X Tour
GW:  Callaway X Tour 54*, SW:  Callaway X Tour 58*
Putter:  Callaway ITrax, Scotty Cameron Studio Design 2, Ping Anser 4

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  • 1 year later...
Originally Posted by Patrick Pritt

140 yards with your nine...haha you need to work on your form, that is a weak pw

Really... your first post is to grave dig a thread and respond like a smart ass to another post that is 4 years old.

Tristan Hilton

My Equipment: 
PXG 0211 Driver (Diamana S+ 60; 10.5°) · PXG 0211 FWs (Diamana S+ 60; 15° and 21°) · PXG 0211 Hybrids (MMT 80; 22°, 25°, and 28°) · PXG 0311P Gen 2 Irons (SteelFiber i95; 7-PW) · Edel Wedges (KBS Hi-Rev; 50°, 55°, 60°) · Edel Classic Blade Putter (32") · Vice Pro or Maxfli Tour · Pinned Prism Rangefinder · Star Grips · Flightscope Mevo · TRUE Linkswear Shoes · Sun Mountain C130S Bag

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Golf shops tend to use either quick-set epoxy, or "24-hour epoxy." The 24-hour has a longer curing time, and will withstand higher heat without starting to breaking down.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
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Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Wow this is a blast from the past.  Thanks to everyone that responded even though many of you are long gone by now.  Update on what I did.  I just used regular 5 min epoxy because that is what I had.  I like to use the stuff that comes in 2 separate tubes rather than the plunger type because I can better control the amount that I mix together.  I can make sure the amounts are equal.  Four years later the club is still together.  I haven't tried to take it apart but I have no plans to do so.

I also bought some new clubs on eBay and at the end of the description the seller stated that he had a set of Bridgestone iron heads along with a set of DG shafts that came with the clubs I actual wanted so I glued those up as well using the same method.  They haven't had much use, maybe 3 rounds and few trips to the range but about two years later they still seem fine.  I think I did a fair job of sanding the shaft and inside the hosel though.

R9 with 757 Speeder
mp 57 3-pw project x 6.0 flighted
Vokey* 56* 60*
Monza Corsa Putter

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Originally Posted by Patrick Pritt

140 yards with your nine...haha you need to work on your form, that is a weak pw

You are right I have been working on my form and now I will sometimes hit a 8 from 140.

R9 with 757 Speeder
mp 57 3-pw project x 6.0 flighted
Vokey* 56* 60*
Monza Corsa Putter

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Note: This thread is 1317 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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