690.cb user looking to move to "cut muscle" irons

**prutkows** · August 16, 2006

when i return to hawaii for christmas vacation, im going to be looking at getting a completely new bag... not the actual bag, but the clubs. as of right now ive demoed a lot of drivers/3woods/hybrids and im pretty much set on what im going to buy on the woods department.

i currently use titleist 690.cb irons with stock s300 steel shafts.

i was hoping to maybe get some suggestions on cut musclebacks/musclebacks/blades.

ive had a chance to get a set of mizuno mp-32's and mp-37's on the course. i believe the mp-32's are a cut muscle and the 37's are a pure muscleback. i couldnt really feel that much of a difference.. my good hits were good, and my mishits were much worse than they are with my 690.cb's.

**gas_can** · August 16, 2006

prutkows,

Why do you want to switch to a blade? Plenty of the traditionally geat ball strikers play cavity backs and have no problems "working the ball."

Even though the "cut muscle" on the 32's is supposed to be forgiving, as you noticed, it's still a very penal club if you're not a consistent ball striker. The goal of the "cut muscle" is to move the center of gravity of a muscle back closer to the center of the club face versus the heel of the club. They feel great, they've got a slightly higher ball flight than a traditional muscle back. However, they're still a penalizing club.

The 37's are a tough set. If you're not a near perfect ball striker with a high flight, they're going to be very penal. Stopping long irons on the greens with them is a very difficult proposition since they've got a low flight.

**prutkows** · August 16, 2006

prutkows,

well, like probably a lot of players im a very consistant ball striker with short-mid irons, but of course i struggle a bit with the long ones.. 3i & 4i. if it matters at all, on average i carry a 4 iron about 195. on a good shot i'll be lucky to get 200-205. with my cavity backs i can usually get my 3/4 to stop fairly quickly on the green, assuming their not horrendously fast. to answer your question, id like to move to CM/MB's because im looking for more feedback when using my irons. i dont really like the idea of the club doing all the work for you, hence the reason i dont use OS or "game improvement" clubs.. but when i bought the 690cb's i was about a 20 handicap and there was no way i could handle CM/MB's so i guess im basically looking to move to a set of irons that will test my ball striking to the point that it will force me to improve.

**Xt1ncT** · August 17, 2006

Why don't you go for the best of both worlds and get a set of combo irons?

Bridgestone J33's look great, Titleist make a set now as well, and Mizuno can mix and match so you could get MP-60's in the loger clubs, and then move to MP-32/37 in the shorter irons?

Hogan Apex FTX are also combo's and are a great club - I used to use them and wish I hadn't changed. If I wa looking to get combo's now I'd go for either the Hogan's or the Bridgestones - haven't had a chance to hit the J33's, but my Z101 TOur Stage are very similar in the longer clubs and are FANTASTIC.......

**prutkows** · August 17, 2006

Why don't you go for the best of both worlds and get a set of combo irons?

i didnt know you could do that? the closest thing ive seen is i ithink the titleist 735?CM's? how they're muscle in the short irons and progressively get more cavity backs in the long? but like iacas i like to work my 6/7 and even my 5 iron and id like them to be muscle backs as well.

**gas_can** · August 17, 2006

i didnt know you could do that? the closest thing ive seen is i ithink the titleist 735?CM's? how they're muscle in the short irons and progressively get more cavity backs in the long? but like iacas i like to work my 6/7 and even my 5 iron and id like them to be muscle backs as well.

prutkows,

I don't want to turn this into a cavity back vs. muscle back debate. However, I don't think you're switching for the right reasons. Fred Couples, Chad Campbell, Trevor Immelman, all guys who I consider among the best pure ball strikers on Tour when they're on form all play cavity backs. I don't see them having any problems with the "clubs doing the work for them." Trust me, you will not a greater difference between mishits and flushed shots with a muscle back any more than your 690.CB. What you will notice is the incredible loss in distance, sometimes as much as 15-20 yards on thin and off center shots. You will also notice a profound loss of height on shots. Ninety-five percent of the amateurs I fit don't hit the ball high enough, especially with the long irons. Muscle back's won't help you. Working the ball is a function of swing path and / or clubface angle. It is not related to club type. Take this for what it's worth, but in my professional opinion, I think the clubs you have now are fine for you to get down to a plus handicap with.

**Xt1ncT** · August 17, 2006

prutkows

What gas_can has said is perfectly true.

The type of clubs I'm talking about (Apex FTX, J33's etc) aren't a cavity back in the Callaway/Taylor Made sense of the word. They all have pretty shallow cavities in the 6/7 irons and only slightly bigger in the 2,4 & 5. And all bar none are VERY workable.

In fact believe it or not Michael Campbell used the Apex FTX when he re-signed with Callaway prior to the X-Tours coming out, as did a number of Callaway Tour Players - Craig Parry (I'm pretty sure he used them to win when he holed out from the fairway in the playoff a cople of years ago) & Barry Lane are just 2 that spring to mind.

As gas_can said, the club you have currently should also be very workable. The problem with all of us when it comes to golf is that our ego gets in the way. What I mean is we think we're better than we are, think we hit it further than we do etc, and so try and go for clubs that will do more harm than good.

**prutkows** · August 19, 2006

prutkows,

prutkows

i have never been more swayed by forum opinions in my life. thanks guys :D i guess i'll be sticking with the 690.cb's for a while. more money to spend on balls/bags/gloves/woods :D

**Xt1ncT** · August 20, 2006

i have never been more swayed by forum opinions in my life. thanks guys :D i guess i'll be sticking with the 690.cb's for a while. more money to spend on balls/bags/gloves/woods :D

My pleasure.

Hope you added to my rep

***iacas*** · August 20, 2006

My pleasure.

Asking for reputation is the surest way to get knocked down a peg by grumpy administrators. In this case you won't be, but please don't ask for rep just as you're not allowed to ask people to click on your Google AdSense ads.

Just a general note for everyone.

golfnow · July 8, 2007

get some muscle backs and practice like hell. When your ball striking is much better look to move onto a more responsive iron

**hurley9192** · July 8, 2007

I'm a 3.7 and play the 690CB's and I work them all over the place. I'd spend the time getting them better fitted and on the range with different setups for hitting fades and draws.

**sandtrap** · July 8, 2007

All of this aside, sometimes you just have to go with your instincts and try a set of what you want. Buy yourself a set of used blades and prove it to yourself. Golf clubs are not a life time commitment, for most of us anyway.
I played Wilson staff blades then the original Big Berthas then a different set or 2 a year for the last 20 years.
The only thing I can tell you for sure is. No 2 sets are the the same and what fits the other guys who post here no matter how cool will fit you the same.
Play what looks good and feels good when compared to others in the net.
Experiment

**ezmoney5150** · July 9, 2007

when i return to hawaii for christmas vacation, im going to be looking at getting a completely new bag... not the actual bag, but the clubs. as of right now ive demoed a lot of drivers/3woods/hybrids and im pretty much set on what im going to buy on the woods department.

Did you try the MP-67's??? They're a cut muscle also and in my opinion have a better feel than the 32's or the 37's. I used to have the 37's before these 67's.

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