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Time for a driver upgrade (without breaking the bank)


sao123
Note: This thread is 6447 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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Im thinking of upgrading my Taylor R580 (non XD) Stiff Shaft which is about 5 years old, and im looking for suggestions about what and where to buy.

first of all a little about me. Im a mediocre player, golfing average 2-3 times per month. On an 18 hole course, I average about a 110 score. I'm also left handed, which makes club selection more difficult. I usually hit straight with the occasional slice, but if I mishit, I have a worm burner tendency, (no hooking ever). But I also have a tendency to try to crush the ball on my drives, because everyone i golf with out drives me.

I have decided to pursue upgrading my driver either now, or over this offseason, to try to get a little extra distance out of my swing.

So far, I have decided I like the R7 460, the R5 460XL(n), and the Callaway X460. But i dont know too much about the clubs, other than I feel good when hitting them inside the store. Can anyone provide some insight as to the advantages of these (and dis- too) over my current 580? Also are there other good clubs I should consider?

I have been recently looking at Dick's for clubs, but have decided that if i can save soem money, i will consider buying online. (i might hit the club at dicks to see if i like it first however.)

Which brings me to my next question, buying online. I was looking at places like tgw.com (The golf warehouse), and rockbottomgolf.com... but something confuses me, how is it that they can sell the club for $100 cheaper than anywhere else? Are they authentic or knockoffs? Do they have factory warranties?

My current preferred club is the R7 460, (which is brand new this year), available from Dicks for $399, but available on Rock bottom Golf for $299, and even *new* on ebay for $249. I'd like to save money, but I dont want to screw myself with a knockoff, or a voided warranty.


Finally, budget. $300 is probably the max i can afford to spend on a driver at this point.

Any tips or suggestions would be helpful.
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You don't say how far your hitting the driver? is the driver keeping your scores over 100? You have a good club, maybe take some of that money and get on a monitor or properly fitted to help bring your scores down then buy the equipment you need.

R7 9.5 S Shaft
560 R7 quad R shaft
RAC LT irons
Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum

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I agree, that is a good driver you have and you would probably benefit from spending 300 on lessons. You might even find that you become a 90 or under player.
IN THE BAG

Driver: R580 W/ Fujikura VistaPro Eighty S Flex
Woods: 15* 300 series R80
Irons: TaylorMade RAC LT T Step Professional 110-gram steel RegularWedge: TP Rac Black Y Cutter 52/8 56/12Putter: Nubbins M2Ball: Bridgestone e5Course: League @ Bedford Hills
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Go for the R7 460, it's hella cheap on eBay right now. I saw one sold for less then $175 recently and I have heard that it's easy to hit and straight even on mis-hits. You can look for a stiff flex or if you don't hit far or has a slower swing, get regular flex. But I would go for stiff flex in case your swing and or swing speed improves in the future.
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You don't say how far your hitting the driver? is the driver keeping your scores over 100? You have a good club, maybe take some of that money and get on a monitor or properly fitted to help bring your scores down then buy the equipment you need.

Completely agree with golfchief. Scrap getting a new driver right now and get a set/package of lessons (about $150). Then get on a launch monitor and see if the club you playing is correct for you (shaft/loft). If the loft is good, then get a fitted for a better shaft that suits your swing. If your current club doesn't fit, then you at least have an idea of what club may work for you.

Another option is to get a good three wood and tee off with that until you break 100 consistantly. Who cares if your are getting outdriven by your playing buddies. 200 in the fairway is way better than 250 OB, etc. At the end of the day, its about your score (and improvement), not how far your are hitting your drives. Good luck with you search!

Alan Olson

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Well unfortunately I took lessons about 4 years ago, and they dropped me from a 150 to a 110-100 player (on a par 72). I checked into them again at the beginning of this summer and now were talking $150 per hour, which is just out of the question.


My current drives are usually only 175, which yes is part of my problem. It takes me 3 shots (driver + fairway 9 wood) to equal or better what they can do in 2. This is especially problematic, because most of the holes are up hill or down in a valley, then back up hill. Hitting OB isnt really a problem, but i need to get 25-50 more yards per drive if possible. This is why I've decided to begin searching for a new driver and next a 5 wood.


Other than my drives, my biggest problem is consistency. Generally on 18 holes, on 16 of the holes, I'll bogie/double very consistently. Then 2 holes (1 on each nine) I end up getting 9's or 10's. Usually due to as I said before, trying to crush the ball on a long par 4s, which then results in hitting a drive which goes about 50 yards and scorches the ground.


I'm still concerned about buying a club from a non-authorized dealer because that may void the 5 year warranty which comes with the club, or I may be buying a fake. But that's why I asked you guys, right?
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Which brings me to my next question, buying online. I was looking at places like tgw.com (The golf warehouse), and rockbottomgolf.com... but something confuses me, how is it that they can sell the club for $100 cheaper than anywhere else? Are they authentic or knockoffs? Do they have factory warranties?

Volume, volume, volume. Plus they don't have a physical store so they do not have the costs associated with a brick and mortar store. I've purchased from TGW before and have never had a problem. You can check the feedback on RockBottom on ebay to see what other customers experiences were. The clubs are authentic and have warranties.

My current preferred club is the R7 460, (which is brand new this year), available from Dicks for $399, but available on Rock bottom Golf for $299, and even *new* on ebay for $249. I'd like to save money, but I dont want to screw myself with a knockoff, or a voided warranty.

You're not "screwing" yourself so don't worry. Rock Bottom has a return policy (listed in the FAQ section). If you buy a TM (or any club) make sure you go to their website and register it in case you need to send it back.

I'm still concerned about buying a club from a non-authorized dealer because that may void the 5 year warranty which comes with the club, or I may be buying a fake. But that's why I asked you guys, right?

As long as its new and you've registered it, it shouldn't be a problem if you need to send it it or repair/replacement. Another option is to take your current r580 and get on a launch monitor. It could be something as simple as getting a different shaft on your current club. Save you a few $$$ and allows you to buy a 3 or 5 wood in addition. Also, used clubs maybe a option for you as well if you have a 2nd Swing, Golfsmith, Golf Galaxy, etc. in your area.

Alan Olson

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Volume, volume, volume. Plus they don't have a physical store so they do not have the costs associated with a brick and mortar store. I've purchased from TGW before and have never had a problem. You can check the feedback on RockBottom on ebay to see what other customers experiences were. The clubs are authentic and have warranties.

Just make sure it's not a refurbished or previously owned club. A lot of places will sell not-quite-new equipment (and mark it as such), but how prominently marked it is depends.

That's not a comment on TGW or Rock Bottom (though I know Rock Bottom sells used stuff sometimes) specficially, but in general. Buyer beware, particularly on the Internet. Check with Golf Gods (.com) too. They have 10% off coupons that are pretty easy to find.[/QUOTE]

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
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I bought the R7 460 recently and like yourself I'm a high handicapper (which is a nice way of saying I suck). All I can say is that my last 2 rounds with this driver and with my new TM hybrid were my 2 low scores for the year including my lowest score ever (and 83) and the lowest score I've had in about a year. For me the club is long and forgiving. It's so nice to play out of the fairway and closer to the green. I replace a TM 320 which I hit about 210. In all fairness, my chipping generally sucks and I've finally found a comfortable chipping stroke so that helped alot. At the same time, I say buy the 460. Heck part of the fun of this whole addiction is hitting new sticks!

What's in my bag?
Bigger Sticks....: Driver: ping.gif G15 9* Fairwayping.gif 4-wood  Hybrids: 4,5  taylormade.gif Rescue Dual
Smaller Sticks...: Irons:  ping.gif G15 5-PW Wedges: titleist.gif Vokey Wedges 48, 52, 56 degree
Flatter Stick......:  odyssey.gif 2-ball putter
Not a Stick.........: Ball:  titleist.gif Dt So/Lo or NXT Tour  Bag:  taylormade.gif Catalina clicgear.gif

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I've been doing some reading, and im curious.
Since I have the R580 w/stiff shaft. Could that shaft be too stiff for transferring power to my stroke, and thats why im missing out on distance?

I'm not sure if there is a way I can guess my stroke velocity, and it probably a generalization but:

I read that people who drive 180-240 (yards without roll) should use regular stiffness and 240+ should use stiff. I think i'd definately fall into the 1st category.
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I've got one of the best teaching pros in the state of Wisconsin and he charges $25/hr. I'd shop around.

WBL

What's In the Bag
Callaway FTiq Tour i-mix 9.5º with stiff Mitsubishi Rayon Javlnfx 6
Cobra F-Speed LD 3-wood 15.5º with 43" YS Tour AD regCobra Baffler DWS 20º & 23º with Aldila VS Proto HL regPing S59 3-PW with Nippon PRO 950GH stiffTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 56º wedgeInazone B...

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Well unfortunately I took lessons about 4 years ago, and they dropped me from a 150 to a 110-100 player (on a par 72). I checked into them again at the beginning of this summer and now were talking $150 per hour, which is just out of the question.

Go back and check those prices, that may have been the cost for a set of lessons,150 per lesson for a beginner is a rip off check somewhere else if that's there price.

R7 9.5 S Shaft
560 R7 quad R shaft
RAC LT irons
Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum

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Well sao123 you're at a crossroads that all us golfers must face. How do I improve? Do I buy a better game with equipment, lessons or what? Do I study the game by reading books and watching the golf channel?

I suspect what you really want is to play better and have more fun. In that case, then a new $400 driver is not likely to change that 110 score to even a 105 score. After all you can only hit driver on 14 holes anyway.

You didn't say how old your were or how long you have been playing so I can't really put that 175 yard drive into perspective. If you are a normal, young, reasonably strong male, and you've been playing for more than a year then your current driver is not your problem...no matter what the TV commercials want to make you think. Too stiff of a shaft can be a problem and would make your shots go low and short and to the right...usually. If that's what you see with your shots then you might consider that.

Personnally, I think you need professional help...OK maybe not a shrink but at least have a pro look at your swing and look at your equipment and help you decide what your priorities are. For $50 and in a half an hour a smart pro could get you heading on the right track and that could make a big difference in your game and your enjoyment. Maybe as others have suggested you should have a good fitting session on a launch monitor and really have your game figured out. Remember...it's the first day of the rest of your golfing life. Making the right choice could mean enjoying the game much more and probably save you a ton of money too.

Good Luck!

Rick
http://www.golf-club-revue.com

"Golf either brings out your ego...or your heart."

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Check with some of the "pre-owned" sites lke Callaway. I had no problem with Rockbottom when I got my R7 at a great price. They usually are "last years models" with all the plastic sealer wrap intact. No problem registering the club either.
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Note: This thread is 6447 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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