Jump to content
IGNORED

swingspeed and shaft stiffness


Note: This thread is 6419 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I bought an r580XD a month or so ago. Its a regular stiffness 10.5 degree loft. It felt good in the store and all, and i think i'm hitting it fairly well so far.

The other day I was checking out a hybrid 2i and the store i was at had a swingspeed monitor, which was clocking my swingspeed with the 2h as 95 mph consistantly, which the guy there said probably makes my driver swing over 100.

My question is in what way is having a regular stiffness driver shaft hurting my game? Is it just distance, or could it be hurting in other ways (like straightness of ballflight).

Would be a serious letdown for me if it is effecting me badly, considering when I was buying the club i was choosing between a 9.5 degree stiff shaft and the 10.5 degree regular, but ended up getting the 10.5 degree because it was the only one left when i went back the next day.

any ideas would be appreciated.

I'm terrible, but i have fun.

In the Bag:
Taylormade r580XD 10.5° Reg flex
3 + 5 wood - Dunlop graphite shaft parts from a set3-pw - Dunlop set that looks sorta like ping I3's (i'm sorely in need of an upgrade.)LW/SW/GW - Adams black 52, 56, 60 degree wedges.Putter - Ping Karsten Anser 34"Bac...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


It is to my understanding that if you use a shaft that is not quite stiff enough for your swing speed that you will have a tendency to fade/slice the ball more. Correct me if I'm wrong.

905R 9.5˚ - UST Proforce V2
904F 15˚ - YS-6
695cb 3-PW Dynamic Gold S300
Vokey SM54.14 and SM60.08
Scotty Cameron Newport 2 Pro V1x / Pro V1Cyberbilt

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Administrator
It is to my understanding that if you use a shaft that is not quite stiff enough for your swing speed that you will have a tendency to fade/slice the ball more. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I think that's backwards. Too stiff tends to mean you leave shots low and right. Too weak is high and left.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Moderator
As long as you're not consistently hooking it or missing fairways on the left (assuming you're a rightee), don't worry about it. There's a lot of variation between different brands and shafts as to what an R and an S is. And the R will probably give you better distance.

Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend.
Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read.
--Groucho Marx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 4 weeks later...
from my experience the only thing that really happens when you are using a shaft that is too weak is that you either push the ball, fade it, or slice it. This is caused by the shaft being still extremely flexed at impact... however... a looser shaft may help you temo so if you have a tendancy to leave it right then try out a stiffer shaft... if not then i think that you should be okay... but this is without looking at your ball flight and swing...

hope this helps
Driver: Titleist 983k 9.5 Fujikura Pro 95 Stiff
3 Wood: Taylor Made V Steel Stiff Flex
Hybrids: 2 & 3 Tour Edge Iron Woods X-Stiff Steel
Irons: 4-PW Tour Edge Progressive Irons X-Stiff Steel
Wedges: Taylor Made Fe2O3 56, Cleveland Tour Action 588 60 Low BouncePutter: Ping G5i UG-LE Ball: Bridgestone...
Link to comment
Share on other sites


from my experience the only thing that really happens when you are using a shaft that is too weak is that you either push the ball, fade it, or slice it. This is caused by the shaft being still extremely flexed at impact... however... a looser shaft may help you temo so if you have a tendancy to leave it right then try out a stiffer shaft... if not then i think that you should be okay... but this is without looking at your ball flight and swing...

Actually iacas/Erik got it right (assuming what I have read from Tom Wishon). At impact the shaft is actually flexed opposite the way that most people think. So when you swing a shaft that is too flexible the clubhead is somewhat more lofted with the face pointing a bit more left (for a right handed golfer) causing the ball to go higher and draw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


i've always been told it matters more how the club is tipped than actaully shafted higher the swing speed you have the stiffer the tip your shaft should have. If your shaft is tipped to weak you will hit fades and draws on your off center shots even when the face comes through square, if it is tipped to stiff you may loose some distance but will gain a lot of control.

correct me if i am off track here

ZEBRA

Titleist 910 D2 10.5 Aldila RIP Phenom

Callaway RAZR fit 3 wood Avixcore 69 series

Mizuno MP650 19* hybrid

Scratch SB-1 DS 4-PW R+ C-Taper

Scratch 1018 DS 53 & 60

Low Tide Fin 

3UP 3F12

Link to comment
Share on other sites


i've always been told it matters more how the club is tipped than actaully shafted higher the swing speed you have the stiffer the tip your shaft should have. If your shaft is tipped to weak you will hit fades and draws on your off center shots even when the face comes through square, if it is tipped to stiff you may loose some distance but will gain a lot of control.

Here's what I see as a problem with that statement. Tipping a shaft more will affect the feel of the shaft and not every golfer with a high swing speed needs or wants a stiff tip shaft.

In my opinion, tipping a shaft more than the manufacturers recommendation is often an abused practice. Now I'm not against tipping and feel that it's a great method to fine tune a club to a player but that people often try to make the wrong shaft fit by tipping then just getting the right shaft and/or flex to begin with. There are so many factors to consider like Swing Speed, Swing Tempo, Shaft Weight, Torque, Kick Point and Bend Profile to name a few. It's difficult to fit a player with a few blanket statements or assumptions even with these numbers. Then take into consideration the endless shaft and head combinations. If you tip a shaft it will have a few effects 1. Will affect the kickpoint and generally lower the ball flight (One special consideration is the type of head IE Bore-Through or Bore-Thru) Since this end of the shaft is the smallest and most flexible part of the shaft. 2. Will stiffen a shaft because it will leave more of the butt end of the shaft which is the stiffest and heaviest part of the shaft I believe the torque of the shaft and the overall flex will dictate direction more than the tip itself. Also one companies R may be another companies S so you have to first make sure you're comparing the right flexes to start.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

since making this post, i've had a lot more work with my regular flex shaft driver, and have noticed i get a pretty high launch, and when i'm swinging right, I get pretty damn good distance off of it.

I think i might reshaft it someday to a stiff, but it will most likely be after i've worked a whole lot of other things out of my game. I can deal with less distance if i'm more consistant, which i am currently.

I'm terrible, but i have fun.

In the Bag:
Taylormade r580XD 10.5° Reg flex
3 + 5 wood - Dunlop graphite shaft parts from a set3-pw - Dunlop set that looks sorta like ping I3's (i'm sorely in need of an upgrade.)LW/SW/GW - Adams black 52, 56, 60 degree wedges.Putter - Ping Karsten Anser 34"Bac...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Most all of the newer high end shafts I've been playing with don't recommend tipping at all. I wanted a stiff Comp NT (untipped) in my Launcher Comp. In his infinite wisdom my club guy bought a "regular" flex and tipped it 1-1/4" (when tipping was not recommended) and said it was in the stiff range on his instrument. It might have been stiff but it played horrible. I was totally disappointed and sold the thing. My new stiff Accuflex is NOT tipped and it is working nicely.

WBL

What's In the Bag
Callaway FTiq Tour i-mix 9.5º with stiff Mitsubishi Rayon Javlnfx 6
Cobra F-Speed LD 3-wood 15.5º with 43" YS Tour AD regCobra Baffler DWS 20º & 23º with Aldila VS Proto HL regPing S59 3-PW with Nippon PRO 950GH stiffTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 56º wedgeInazone B...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 6419 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • Day 12: Same as last couple days, but focus was on recentering aspect of flow. When I recenter earlier I make decent contact most swings but if I recenter late or not at all it’s a roll of the dice. 
    • A couple of things.  Some of the clubs in your bag should be dropped immediately.  A 2-iron for example with what obviously seems to be a lower swing speed or possibly not great swing yet is a definite no-no.  To be hitting that 120-140 yards, which I assume includes run, is a sign that you are not getting the ball airborne at the correct angle to maximise distance.  The reason your 3 and 5 hybrid are going the same distance is that your launch angle is better with the 5.  Loft is your friend. Ideally I would suggest going to a golf or sporting store where you can hit golf balls on a simulator without being disturbed to understand your club carry distances and hopefully swing speed.  With that information we can definitely guide you better.
    • Let us be clear, unless you have proof of cheating, you just sound like a case of sour grapes.  In our club we have a guy who won club titles for many years.  Yes, he was a low single digit handicapper, but there have been quite a few others who played at his level.  Yet his mental strength and experience helped him win in many years when he shouldn't have.  Did he sandbag.  DEFINITELY NOT.  Did he just minimize his mistakes and pull out shots as and when needed.  Definitely.
    • Day 111 - Worked on my grip and higher hands in the backswing. Full swings with the PRGR. 
    • First off please forgive me if this is not a proper post or not in the proper location, still learning the ropes around here. Second, it's important that I mention I am very new to the game with only about 10 rounds of golf under my belt, most being 9 holes. Only this year have I started playing 18. That being said, I am hooked, love the game and am very eager to learn and improve. To give you an idea of my skill, the last 2 18 rounds I played were 110 and 105. Not great at all, however I am slowly improving as I learn. Had been having bad slicing issues with the driver and hybrids but after playing some more and hitting the range, I've been able to improve on that quite a bit and have been hitting more straight on average. Irons have always come easier to me as far as hitting straight for some reason. Wedges have needed a lot of improvement, but I practice chipping about 20-30 mins about 3-5 times a week and that's helped a lot. Today I went to the range and started to note down some distance data, mind you I am averaging the distances based off my best guess compared to the distance markers on the range. I do not currently own a range finder or tracker. From reading some similar posts I do understand that filling gaps is ideal, but I am having a some issues figuring out those gaps and understanding which clubs to keep and remove as some gaps are minimal between clubs. Below is an image of the chart I put together showing the clubs and average distances I've been hitting and power applied. For some reason I am hitting my hybrids around the same distances and I am not sure why. Wondering if one of them should be removed. I didn't notice a huge loft difference either. The irons I have are hand me downs from my grandfather and after playing with them a bit, I feel like they're just not giving me what could potentially be there. The feel is a bit hard/harsh and underwhelming if that makes sense and I can't seem to get decent distances from them. Wondering if I should be looking to invest in some more updated irons and if those should be muscle backs or cavity backs? My knowledge here is minimal. I have never played with modern fairway woods, only the classic clubs that are actually wood and much smaller than modern clubs. I recently removed the 4 and 5 woods from my bag as I was never using them and I don't hit them very well or very far. Wondering if I should look into some more modern fairway wood options? I appreciate any feedback or advice anyone is willing to give, please forgive my lack of knowledge. I am eager to learn! Thank you.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...