Jump to content
IGNORED

less dimples .... less side spin ?


Note: This thread is 5074 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

I have been using the Bridgestone e5 for a while and I really like the side spin these balls get when I intend to hit a draw with the driver off the tee ..... last week I bought a dozen of the Srixon AD333 (new model) and all my intended draws went straight into the woods on the right !?!!????

Is it the fewer dimples or just I, me and myself ?

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I have been using the Bridgestone e5 for a while and I really like the side spin these balls get when I intend to hit a draw with the driver off the tee ..... last week I bought a dozen of the Srixon AD333 (new model) and all my intended draws went straight into the woods on the right !?!!????

Nope. For once, the ball has a lot to do with it.

First thing you need to know. The e5 is a urethane covered ball. That in itself means it spins a hell of a lot more. The AD333 has a harder surlyn type cover. There is almost no comparison on the spin. The lowest spin urethane balls spin more than the highest spin surlyn balls . Now, here's where it gets tricky. What I think is going on is that backspin is negating sidespin. If the only change you made was truly the ball, then it does make some sense. What may be happening is that the e5 has enough backspin to hold it on course better. The AD333, however, does not. While the dimple pattern does mean a lot, the cover is much more important in these two. The e5 is designed to have a bit more backspin off the driver, so that does make sense. That's really the only reason I can come up with.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I assume you mean the AD333 fails to draw and just cruises straight (or straighter than you'd like) into the woods? If so, I'd say it's just the cover. No need to worry about the detailed aerodynamics. The e5 is intended as a high-spin ball, the AD333 as a low-spin.

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I assume you mean the AD333 fails to draw and just cruises straight (or straighter than you'd like) into the woods? If so, I'd say it's just the cover. No need to worry about the detailed aerodynamics. The e5 is intended as a high-spin ball, the AD333 as a low-spin.

Oh, that makes more sense. He said "straight" into the woods. I assumed he meant the AD 333 drew too much, which made little sense. No wonder my best theory was so far fetched.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


It might just be my english ...... The AD333 didn't take the draw and the balls went straight into the woods at the right side of the FW ..... I am changing back to the e5 !

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Oh, that makes more sense. He said "straight" into the woods. I assumed he meant the AD 333 drew too much, which made little sense. No wonder my best theory was so far fetched.

Yeah, it took me a minute to understand what he was saying (though in retrospect it was accurately described, I just didn't parse the "right" direction correctly).

It might just be my english ...... The AD333 didn't take the draw and the balls went straight into the woods at the right side of the FW ..... I am changing back to the e5 !

I've played my last two 9-hole rounds with the e5 and like it pretty well. The putting feel is fantastic compared to the Warbirds I was playing, and it seems to stop a bit faster on my chips and approaches. I still don't get a lot of spin, but it's better. The first round out I had a lot of trouble with not-quite-slice fishtailing on many shots, but I get a much nicer trajectory with my long irons. I'm pretty happy so far.

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Nope. For once, the ball has a lot to do with it.

An absolutely false statement. The 3-piece Ad333 has more driver spin than several Urethane covered balls, including the 2-piece E5. Someone needs to do more research prior to making incorrect & misleading statements.

The e5 is intended as a high-spin ball, the AD333 as a low-spin.

Another even more misleading statement. Please go do your research prior to making such totally false statements.

Don't believe me, then go argue with the USGA test results, and several major magazine tests results. E5 Driver spin = Low Short Iron Spin = Medium AD333 Driver Spin = Medium Short Iron Spin = High Results from the USGA Golf Ball Test
Link to comment
Share on other sites


An absolutely false statement. The 3-piece Ad333 has more driver spin than several Urethane covered balls, including the 2-piece E5. Someone needs to do more research prior to making incorrect & misleading statements.

Care to back that up with some evidence?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Another even more misleading statement. Please go do your research prior to making such totally false statements.

Dude, lose the attitude. If you disagree, just say it, it doesn't help to act like a self-important jerk while doing so.

From AD333 description on a few sites: "Provides faster ball speed with the same optimal high launch angle and low spin launch conditions" If that's incorrect, it's incorrect. If you have information to the contrary, just provide it. Spare us all the breathless dramatics.

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"

Link to comment
Share on other sites


IT appears in your hast to chastize me, you failed to review all the info (evidence) I posted ...

E5 - Driver spin = Low --------- Short Iron Spin = Medium
AD333 - Driver Spin = Medium -------- Short Iron Spin = High

Based on results from the USGA Golf Ball Test
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I have been using the Bridgestone e5 for a while and I really like the side spin these balls get when I intend to hit a draw with the driver off the tee ..... last week I bought a dozen of the Srixon AD333 (new model) and all my intended draws went straight into the woods on the right !?!!????

Unless you're going from a persimmon driver to a new driver, I wouldn't expect so much diference from one ball to the next. Maybe less draw, but not perfectly straight.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


IT appears in your hast to chastize me, you failed to review all the info (evidence) I posted ...

So, you're going with the obscure definitions "high," "medium," and "low?" Again, cite your information please. Your short iron spin numbers already directly contradict the ones I gave.

E5 - approx 33° launch at 5,500 RPM AD333 - approx 37° launch at 4,200RPM Source = http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equip...alls_spinchart
Link to comment
Share on other sites


An absolutely false statement. The 3-piece Ad333 has more driver spin than several Urethane covered balls, including the 2-piece E5. Someone needs to do more research prior to making incorrect & misleading statements.

Isn't the Srixon AD333 a 2 piece ball ?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites


So, you're going with the obscure definitions "high," "medium," and "low?" Again, cite your information please. Your short iron spin numbers already directly contradict the ones I gave.

I seem to recall that the Gamer-V2 was the only non-urethane ball that even approached the spin rates of the urethane balls.

Instight XTD A30S Driver 10.5° ($69 new ebay)
Instight XTD A3OS Fairway Wood 15° ($45 new ebay)
Fybrid 19.5° ($35 new ebay)
Ci7 4-GW ($175 new Rock Bottom Golf via ebay)
53° & 58° 8620 DD wedges ($75 each new PGA Superstore) C2-DF ($35 new Rock Bottom Golf) Riley TT stand bag ($7 n...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I seem to recall that the Gamer-V2 was the only non-urethane ball that even approached the spin rates of the urethane balls.

Nah, there's a few others, Nike One Vapor, Trispeed Tour, etc. But it is true, the highest spin surlyn ball spun less than the lowest spin urethane ball. For this reason, the e5 was likely taking the spin, while the AD333 was not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Nope. 3 piece.

BZZZT. Sorry Cornbread. Unless the Srixon website is showing a photoshopped case, and they're lying on the "Technology" tab here (

http://www.srixon.com/index.php?&fun...T;:4idb50bsvoc6 ), it's a 2-piece. Wasn't someone blathering something about not posting without doing research?

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"

Link to comment
Share on other sites


The Tri-speed is Srixon's mid-level three piece ball. The AD333 is a two piece distance ball (meaning low spin across the board). I don't think ball cover material has much to do with spin off the driver. It's with your wedges and irons that have deep aggressive grooves that a softer cover material is able to dig into the grooves and produce more spin. Spin off your driver is more dictated by the ball's compression and it's areodynamics. That isn't to say the driver won't produce much spin but that happens because of your angle of attack, club face angle, and swing path direction. Most modern drivers don't even have grooves in the club's sweet spot. The Bridgestone e5 has fewer and larger dimples which tend to produce higher flight (areodynamically), and it has a higher compression. That higher compression tends not to compress so much against the driver and that also helps to produce more spin off the driver. In contrast their e6 ball is a low compression 3 piece ball that is designed to minimize spin off the driver for less side spin and straighter flight. In reference to the OP the e5 should be a ball that he can more easily work left or right with the driver, and the AD333 being a lower compression two piece distance ball will favor straighter flight.

Nike Vapor Speed driver 12* stock regular shaft
Nike Machspeed 4W 17*, 7W 21* stock stiff shafts
Ping i10 irons 4-9, PW, UW, SW, LW AWT stiff flex
Titleist SC Kombi 35"; Srixon Z Star XV tour yellow

Clicgear 3.0; Sun Mountain Four 5

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 5074 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • Day 12: Same as last couple days, but focus was on recentering aspect of flow. When I recenter earlier I make decent contact most swings but if I recenter late or not at all it’s a roll of the dice. 
    • A couple of things.  Some of the clubs in your bag should be dropped immediately.  A 2-iron for example with what obviously seems to be a lower swing speed or possibly not great swing yet is a definite no-no.  To be hitting that 120-140 yards, which I assume includes run, is a sign that you are not getting the ball airborne at the correct angle to maximise distance.  The reason your 3 and 5 hybrid are going the same distance is that your launch angle is better with the 5.  Loft is your friend. Ideally I would suggest going to a golf or sporting store where you can hit golf balls on a simulator without being disturbed to understand your club carry distances and hopefully swing speed.  With that information we can definitely guide you better.
    • Let us be clear, unless you have proof of cheating, you just sound like a case of sour grapes.  In our club we have a guy who won club titles for many years.  Yes, he was a low single digit handicapper, but there have been quite a few others who played at his level.  Yet his mental strength and experience helped him win in many years when he shouldn't have.  Did he sandbag.  DEFINITELY NOT.  Did he just minimize his mistakes and pull out shots as and when needed.  Definitely.
    • Day 111 - Worked on my grip and higher hands in the backswing. Full swings with the PRGR. 
    • First off please forgive me if this is not a proper post or not in the proper location, still learning the ropes around here. Second, it's important that I mention I am very new to the game with only about 10 rounds of golf under my belt, most being 9 holes. Only this year have I started playing 18. That being said, I am hooked, love the game and am very eager to learn and improve. To give you an idea of my skill, the last 2 18 rounds I played were 110 and 105. Not great at all, however I am slowly improving as I learn. Had been having bad slicing issues with the driver and hybrids but after playing some more and hitting the range, I've been able to improve on that quite a bit and have been hitting more straight on average. Irons have always come easier to me as far as hitting straight for some reason. Wedges have needed a lot of improvement, but I practice chipping about 20-30 mins about 3-5 times a week and that's helped a lot. Today I went to the range and started to note down some distance data, mind you I am averaging the distances based off my best guess compared to the distance markers on the range. I do not currently own a range finder or tracker. From reading some similar posts I do understand that filling gaps is ideal, but I am having a some issues figuring out those gaps and understanding which clubs to keep and remove as some gaps are minimal between clubs. Below is an image of the chart I put together showing the clubs and average distances I've been hitting and power applied. For some reason I am hitting my hybrids around the same distances and I am not sure why. Wondering if one of them should be removed. I didn't notice a huge loft difference either. The irons I have are hand me downs from my grandfather and after playing with them a bit, I feel like they're just not giving me what could potentially be there. The feel is a bit hard/harsh and underwhelming if that makes sense and I can't seem to get decent distances from them. Wondering if I should be looking to invest in some more updated irons and if those should be muscle backs or cavity backs? My knowledge here is minimal. I have never played with modern fairway woods, only the classic clubs that are actually wood and much smaller than modern clubs. I recently removed the 4 and 5 woods from my bag as I was never using them and I don't hit them very well or very far. Wondering if I should look into some more modern fairway wood options? I appreciate any feedback or advice anyone is willing to give, please forgive my lack of knowledge. I am eager to learn! Thank you.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...