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Face Facts, AJ - Page 4
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Re: Face Facts, AJ
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Re: Face Facts, AJ
Name one? The problem with presetting is you run the risks of hooding the club and hittin low screaming hooks or flat out slices. I want my club in a neutral position at address and pretty much that same position at the top. If you preset then you are trying to keep that same degree of closed or open throughout the swing. The clubface must rotate through the swing so not trying to close it or hold it off a bit at impact will lead to even more inconsistent contact due to the fact that you are trying to fight your natural shape. If you naturally hit a fade then trying to hit a draw by presetting and using the same swing will be fighting your fade inclanation and vice versa. So you are actually going to be less consistent that way. Unless you Kenny Perry style it and hit only fades or only draws. A fade swing is different from a draw swing just like the driver swing is different from an iron swing.- Joined: 9/2008, Posts: 95
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Re: Face Facts, AJ
before 2005 tiger had always played with a square to slightly closed clubface
birth - 1997 = through this period he played with a almost fully shut face (clubface points towards sky) he needed to be super quick with his power to hold the face square but it suited him as his hips were so fat
1998-2004 = under butch he moved to a more square to still slightly shut face, this is the swing when tiger was at his best and imo he should have never changed it
2005-present = tiger now has very weak grip and still maintains a flat left wrist but not enough to remove hand action from his swing,
oh and just to remind you ben hogan spent 40 years of his life before he finally learned his swing, he hit thousands upon thousands of balls all week long, how could he not perfect it with his cupped left wrist
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Re: Face Facts, AJ
Maybe you didn't understand what I meant by presetting the club. To do that, I figure how much spin (draw or fade) I want to put on the ball. I then set the clubface that amount, then grip the club. Let's say I want to draw a driver 15 yards or so. I rotate the face a degree or two counterclockwise, then grip the club. If I then swing normally along my aim line (which is 15 yards right of where I want the ball to end) it should end up about where I want it. Notice I don't say it will start out along my aim line, but it will move toward my target.
The only way I will hit an uncontrolled hook is if I rotate my hands too much, or screw up my swing in some way. If I am successful in keeping my grip square to my swing plane, the face angle at impact is the same as at setup. Others may accomplish the same thing in another way. I just think this is the easiest and the least likely to be inconsistent. 75% of the time I just want to hit it straight, anyway, so it's really no big deal.
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Re: Face Facts, AJ
before 2005 tiger had always played with a square to slightly closed clubface
birth - 1997 = through this period he played with a almost fully shut face (clubface points towards sky) he needed to be super quick with his power to hold the face square but it suited him as his hips were so fat
1998-2004 = under butch he moved to a more square to still slightly shut face, this is the swing when tiger was at his best and imo he should have never changed it
2005-present = tiger now has very weak grip and still maintains a flat left wrist but not enough to remove hand action from his swing,
oh and just to remind you ben hogan spent 40 years of his life before he finally learned his swing, he hit thousands upon thousands of balls all week long, how could he not perfect it with his cupped left wrist
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Re: Face Facts, AJ
Maybe you didn't understand what I meant by presetting the club. To do that, I figure how much spin (draw or fade) I want to put on the ball. I then set the clubface that amount, then grip the club. Let's say I want to draw a driver 15 yards or so. I rotate the face a degree or two counterclockwise, then grip the club. If I then swing normally along my aim line (which is 15 yards right of where I want the ball to end) it should end up about where I want it. Notice I don't say it will start out along my aim line, but it will move toward my target.
The only way I will hit an uncontrolled hook is if I rotate my hands too much, or screw up my swing in some way. If I am successful in keeping my grip square to my swing plane, the face angle at impact is the same as at setup. Others may accomplish the same thing in another way. I just think this is the easiest and the least likely to be inconsistent. 75% of the time I just want to hit it straight, anyway, so it's really no big deal.
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Re: Face Facts, AJ
FWIW, I open the face in my grip to hit a draw and then manipulate where I'm hitting the ball on the circle slightly. The bigger the hook the more I open the face relative to my body because the more the ball will draw.
In the end, if it works for you, great... It doesn't work for me, though, and knowing not only the ball flight laws but how to slightly manipulate the way I come into the ball by small setup changes, etc. allows me to make the same swing with all of my clubs to produce different ball flights.
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Re: Face Facts, AJ
In the end, if it works for you, great... It doesn't work for me, though, and knowing not only the ball flight laws but how to slightly manipulate the way I come into the ball by small setup changes, etc. allows me to make the same swing with all of my clubs to produce different ball flights.
We are saying the same thing, only I work off of my aim line, which I would consider my "target". You would consider my clubface "open" to the final target, I consider it "closed" to the aim line. Hopefully, the ball doesn't know the difference and is excitedly running down toward the center of the fairway.

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Let me ask a question. Let's say that you start with your grip and you take the club back, during the backswing, you open the clubface by rotating the hands open as far as you can. That is to say that on the backswing, you start opening the clubface gradually to the top. This places you in the toe down position. Now, from the top you go ahead and start closing the clubface, all the way to the end of the swing, where you now have the clubface as closed as possible. Assuming you are swinging in rhythm, wouldn't it make sense that you would be pretty close to square in the middle of the swing (impact)?
I am asking because I just played with this very idea moments ago at the range and was hitting the ball beautifully. The way I see it, the key to this being successful is really all about swinging in rhythm. . .and is not reasonable to make this release a few feet before the ball. But, if you can start your release from the top...it makes sense that it would be consistent as long as you keep your forward swing and your backswing the same length and you stay in rhythm.
I am no pro, but I am curious to hear some feedback that doesn't resort to name calling. Moreover, if someone is a TGM fan, how does this move differ from the move required by a swinger prior to the horizontal hinging (where the forearms must roll)?
I find Bonar's method works fine. I would call it creating lag or, flash speed. The key is not to consciously "turn the screw driver" or roll the wrists. They do this on their own, not something you have to do. I open up wide on back swing just like he says and feel like I'm hammering the ball with the heel of my right hand or, if I had a hammer, I'm hammering the spike shown in his dvds with my right hand. Be sure you are hitting down when you do this. The club sizzles through the ball regardless, fairway, rough, off a tee or what ever. The club actually squares itself up through the ball and closes on its own on the follow through. Don't hold onto the hammering sensation, just let the club release on its own. You will feel like it's coming into the ball wide open but it closes just right. The problem with golf instruction is it's like trying to describe how to walk. Or describe what "wet" is.
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