Jump to content
IGNORED

Equipment upgrade advice request


Norm66
Note: This thread is 6379 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

I started golfing a few months ago and bought this set from K-Mart to get started.

It's served me pretty well thus far, but I have some concerns that it's beginning to hold me back. I do OK with the irons though I don't hit nearly as far as a lot of folks seem to (100 yds, with a 9i), but the 3 & 4 hybrids and woods don't seem to agree with me nearly as well. The shafts seem unduly flexible for one thing and I can't get any kind of consistency especially with the hybrids. Lately I've been able to get decent results driving with my 3-wood (around 200' off the tee and generally straight-ish) but I wonder if I'm actually getting better or just learning how to hit that particular club.

Budget is a concern so simply replacing my entire set isn't an option at this point. I'd like to get a club or two at a time to try and spread out the cost of replacing everything, but don't really know where to start.

I can hit my 5i pretty consistently to 150 yards. My 3 & 4 hybrids go more or less 165 & 185 with much less consistency in both distance and accuracy. The 3 & 5 wood I hit very inconsistently (except off the tee with the 3 as noted above) and let's not even talk about the driver.

So the advice I'm seeking is whether any of you have any experience with these el-cheapo sets & what might be holding me back. If there's any possibility of a new driver significantly improving my distance & accuracy I would probably prefer to start there since distance off the tee is my #1 biggest flaw. If not, I'd consider starting by replacing the hybrids and starting from the bottom up so to speak. I'm also wondering about whether I could expect a higher quality (Callaway, Cleveland, etc.) brand of irons to perform significantly better than my current irons.

I realize that without seeing my swing it's hard to offer advice, but let's concentrate on the equipment for this post.

Thanks in advance.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Since graphite shafts are more expensive it is possible that poor quality graphite shafts are in the hybrids and woods. Even inexpensive metal shafts are at least ok. If you are generally athletic you may be generating to much clubhead speed for the shafts in this kind of set. Your short iron distances will improve as your swing does. I agree with the advice to test out a swing / launch monitor. I would actually look at replacing a fairway wood first, probably the 5 since you hit the three better. I don't think it is unusual for golfers to have 2 or three different brands of woods, irons that are not matched sounds like a bad idea to me. Don't worry about the driver until you can break 95 on a good day. Unless you can reach par 5s in two it is not worth it if you can't control it.

1W Cleveland LauncherComp 10.5, 3W Touredge Exotics 15 deg.,FY Wilson 19.5 degree
4 and 5H, 6I-GW Callaway Razr, SW, LW Cleveland Cg-14, Putter Taylor Made Suzuka, Ball, Srixon XV Yellow

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Yea, I'd love to get on a launch monitor and have a pro help me out. There's no place near where I live that has one though. Looks like a road trip is in order.

Allin- the irons are steel shafted, the hybrids & woods are graphite. The hybrid shafts seem much stiffer than the woods, maybe due to being shorter, but maybe not. I wouldn't necessarily class myself as athletic, but I am a big guy, 6'-3" and well over 300lbs so maybe I am swinging too fast for those shafts. I do think I'll start with the woods, I should be able to replace both of them at once if I save my pennies.
Thanks for the advice.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I am similar in size to you (6'3" 280lbs) and I've had my irons lengthened by an 1 1/2" so I don't have to bend down as much. From what you are describing you could definitely use some stiffer shafts in your woods. The "el-cheapo" sets have poor quality very light regular flex graphite shafts. With Ebay you can get some very good deals and stay in your budget. Also, on a whim I recently went to golfsmith to check out the Mac Burrows close-outs for my "guest/2nd" set. The woods are $39 and I've had comparable results as compared to what I have in my bag. I also picked up the Powersphere 421cc for $49 and was very impressed with the results. Golfsmith just bought out Burrows golf and is selling all their components on for dirt cheap prices.

Yea, I'd love to get on a launch monitor and have a pro help me out. There's no place near where I live that has one though. Looks like a road trip is in order.

In my bag:

TaylorMade R7 Superquad - 11.5 deg - Diamana Whiteboard 63-S
Tour Edge Exotics - CB2 16 deg - Diamana Redboard 73-S
Taylormade V-Steel 24 deg - Diamana Redboard 83-STaylorMade R7 XD - 5i-AW Project X 6.552 deg Miura Forged Raw56 deg Fourteen MT-28/56V3 60 deg - Fourteen MT-28/60V2 P...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


It seems to be a buyer's market for golf gear now, seasonally and overall lower demand, so now is the best time to pick up some gear that is right for you at a very reasonable cost. Find out what you need and scout out what it can be had for used.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


There's always flea bay, I'm assuming you need cavities and game improvements, you can always get a new set on ebay for 400$ or a used set for 150$ depending on what models. Safe bet, go with the TaylarMade OS (newer model) This should be about 350$ for new on flea bay. Make sure its not fake!
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 6379 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • I'd agree that 4w seems like the right play here. I'm not a course designer or anything but that hole looks like it could be so much more fun if everyone played from those front 2 tee boxes that are right outside your shot cone and they cut down most of the trees down that left side of the fairway. That would give risk reward to long hitters who want to try and push it up to that left fairway, allow more players to reach that second fairway, and still allowing it to be perfectly playable for someone who only hits driver like 150yds off the tee.   Yeah it looks like 4iron aimed at that inside edge of the right bunker is the play there, especially if you don't expect a 20mph tailwind again. If it is down wind again, 5iron would be just fine too, it'd still get you inside 150yds for your approach.  Keep in mind tee marker locations too, you measured that one from the back so if those tee markers are moved all the way towards the front of that box then 5 iron is probably best just to be sure that right bunker is never in play. 
    • Day 1: worked on my drill for my arms.
    • Hit my tee shot just into the penalty area and barely found it. Swung hard just in case I hit it. It was slightly downhill with a heavy tailwind. I don't actually hit my 9i 170 yards.
    • Right. The difference between being 120 out and 70 out for me (this is the important part) is negligible and not worth putting other risks into play off the tee.   Ok the argument against driver is that my shot cone is comically large. It puts every possible outcome into play. You can't see the green from the tee so there's a good chance I'd have to wait for it to clear which would slow down play. That's the third tee right in the middle of the firing range there. I really don't want to wait just to hit a terrible shot and I especially don't want to injure somebody. Yea I have no problem playing out of the rough short of the bunker if I'm just going to lay up short of the bunker, but I absolutely need to avoid flaring it right into the penalty area if I'm going to be laying up in the first place. As a general strategy I understand where you're coming from. But since we're specifically talking about me (this is a shot I'm going to have to hit on Saturday), I think the cost is fairly marginal. I hit the ball 8' closer on average from 50-100 than I do from 100-150 from the fairway and rough and the green success % difference is 4%. Bunker might as well be a penalty drop. Based on the data,  Here's my SG:A data compared to a 10: I honestly don't know how to use SG for decision making. That's why I was mostly looking at proximity to hole and green success rate for comparison. I mostly use SG as a way to track my progress. All good. Like I said, I appreciate the discussion. It makes me think. If I didn't want to see alternative/opposing viewpoints to my own I just wouldn't post anything. You should post it! In your own swing thread, of course. It's been a fun exercise.
    • Played my first 2024 round at Pierce Lake. Boomed my first drive down #10 fairway, then slowly slipped into mediocrity. 83 (69.6/131). The high point was going 2 of 4 on sand saves. My sand game is pretty marginal but today I must have discovered the secret for a couple hours.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...