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DIY shaft pulling/replacing


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Anyone have a step by step on how to get old ones out and throw new ones in? bought a set on ebay and the shafts aren't long enough/stiff enough so i bought some shafts to put in em...i know how to do grips so it's not a big deal just shafts i'm a bit...'new' to doing. thanks for your help in advance,

-PG from PA

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g

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Check out YouTube....it is easy...bit there is a learning curve for best results.

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip

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Originally Posted by weavej2

Check out YouTube....it is easy...bit there is a learning curve for best results.


If you know of some good videos, embed them here.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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Learning curve for irons? Irons and wedges are pretty easy assuming everything is steel. I've done several with no problems. Graphite becomes much more problematic... You need a shaft puller if you want to ever use the shaft again.

Let me Google that for you .

The first Golfworks article will work nicely for you.

titleistprov1x |nikeneo |●| callawayx-forged 54/60 |● |mizunoMP68

adamsproblack 3H |●| mizunoMPtitanium5w/3w |●| mizunoMP630FT

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Originally Posted by The Gill

Learning curve for irons? Irons and wedges are pretty easy assuming everything is steel.


Lots of people can put clubs together....some just make a better finished product.

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip

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Better make sure everything is the same size ie: tip diameter and inside diameter of your hosels. Are the shafts pulls or new? Do they need trimmed to flex (.370p) or just butt trimmed (.355t) after installation?

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon

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First make sure you have the proper shaft, ie, taper or paralel. find a ferrule that closely matches your iron outside diameter, makes things easier for a DIY'er

Removing isn't a problem any more as you most likely do not have pins in the iron heads.  I prefer a welding glove and a torch.  I generally cut off the ferrules first so I don't need clean up much on the heads.  Once the head is removed clean out the bore as well as you can while the head is still hot.  A round wire brush works pretty well in a cordless drill.

Make sure you have the stepping chart for that iron and the flex you wish to be.  after that some gluing weight checking and ferrule finishing.  Finishing the ferrule that is close to the iron o.d. is s imply a matter of shining it up with some acetone and a lint free rag.  Not an easy thing to do well but you can practice on the clubs before you remove them.

Good luck

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Originally Posted by weavej2

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Gill

Learning curve for irons? Irons and wedges are pretty easy assuming everything is steel.

Lots of people can put clubs together....some just make a better finished product.



Outstanding vague statement.

titleistprov1x |nikeneo |●| callawayx-forged 54/60 |● |mizunoMP68

adamsproblack 3H |●| mizunoMPtitanium5w/3w |●| mizunoMP630FT

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I pulled my drivers graphite shaft to shorten it last year. The one mistake I made was not being careful, and letting too much heat (heat gun) hit the shaft, which melted it. Luckily that part got cut off.

But with graphite at least, don't let any direct heat hit the shaft, or it will melt!

Originally Posted by The Gill

Learning curve for irons? Irons and wedges are pretty easy assuming everything is steel. I've done several with no problems. Graphite becomes much more problematic... You need a shaft puller if you want to ever use the shaft again.

Let me Google that for you.

The first Golfworks article will work nicely for you.



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You are gonna need some Tools that aint cheap.   If you want to save money, just bring it to Clubmakers in your area.

Some basic tools are Heat Gun, Circular Saw (7 inch), Some epoxy, a long Ruler about 2 meters and lastly a shaft Puller (pretty expensive tool).

IF you don't have all of those, you are not ready to do some Re-shafting by yourself.

Whats in my Golf Bag:
Driver: Nike Sumo 5000
5 Wood: Mizuno MP-001
Iron: Mizuno MX-950 5-PW
Wedge: Cobra FP 60 degrePutter: Odyssey 2-BallBall: Yellow balls
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Originally Posted by ronaldkuntoro

You are gonna need some Tools that aint cheap.   If you want to save money, just bring it to Clubmakers in your area.

Some basic tools are Heat Gun, Circular Saw (7 inch), Some epoxy, a long Ruler about 2 meters and lastly a shaft Puller (pretty expensive tool).

IF you don't have all of those, you are not ready to do some Re-shafting by yourself.

I think, that's quite a bold statement.

What would you need a 2meter ruler for?

To me, for reshafting clubs, depending on the specific work, these tools are necessary:

1.) Replacing iron shafts (new shafts already have the right length, like most tapertipped shafts)

- heat gun

- epoxy

- round wire brush

- sand paper

(- new ferrules)

Apply heat to the hosel, until the old epoxy melts, remove the head, clean out the hosel, sand the tip of the new shaft, apply epoxy, put together shaft/ferrule/head, let dry - DONE

If you have to trim your shafts by yourself you will also need a small hacksaw, but better would be a steel pipe cutter - costs about 5-6 bucks - and a regular tape measure will do, also.

In all, if you just want to replace your iron shafts, it really, really cheap to do it.

2. Replacing graphite shafts

- heat gun

- epoxy

- round wire brush

- sand paper

- selfmade shaft puller (about 10,- - 15,-)

To cut the graphite shafts, I'd suggest a fine hacksaw again, works really well.

A selfmade shaft puller is not really hard to do (search on golfwrx for "diy shaft puller", the website is down ATM).

I don't have a pic of mine, but it took me about 2 or 3 hours to build it (with parts I already had at home).

greetings

michi

"I have my own golf course and Par is whatever I say it is. There's a hole which is a Par13 and yesterday I damn nearly birdied that sucker." - Willie Nelson

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Originally Posted by mihi4

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronaldkuntoro

You are gonna need some Tools that aint cheap.   If you want to save money, just bring it to Clubmakers in your area.

Some basic tools are Heat Gun, Circular Saw (7 inch), Some epoxy, a long Ruler about 2 meters and lastly a shaft Puller (pretty expensive tool).

IF you don't have all of those, you are not ready to do some Re-shafting by yourself.

I think, that's quite a bold statement.

What would you need a 2meter ruler for?

To me, for reshafting clubs, depending on the specific work, these tools are necessary:

1.) Replacing iron shafts (new shafts already have the right length, like most tapertipped shafts)

- heat gun

- epoxy

- round wire brush

- sand paper

(- new ferrules)

Apply heat to the hosel, until the old epoxy melts, remove the head, clean out the hosel, sand the tip of the new shaft, apply epoxy, put together shaft/ferrule/head, let dry - DONE

If you have to trim your shafts by yourself you will also need a small hacksaw, but better would be a steel pipe cutter - costs about 5-6 bucks - and a regular tape measure will do, also.

In all, if you just want to replace your iron shafts, it really, really cheap to do it.

2. Replacing graphite shafts

- heat gun

- epoxy

- round wire brush

- sand paper

- selfmade shaft puller (about 10,- - 15,-)

To cut the graphite shafts, I'd suggest a fine hacksaw again, works really well.

A selfmade shaft puller is not really hard to do (search on golfwrx for "diy shaft puller", the website is down ATM).

I don't have a pic of mine, but it took me about 2 or 3 hours to build it (with parts I already had at home).

greetings

michi


The 2 meter ruler, of course, for measuring the desired CLub length.

Don't EVER use a hacksaw to cut graphite shafts cause they will damage the  shaft.

2 Hours to build a golf club???  that's bit too long.......  should be just 20 minutes max and then you leave the epoxy to dry.

Whats in my Golf Bag:
Driver: Nike Sumo 5000
5 Wood: Mizuno MP-001
Iron: Mizuno MX-950 5-PW
Wedge: Cobra FP 60 degrePutter: Odyssey 2-BallBall: Yellow balls
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Aright, here's the deal: i have clubs coming to me, (nike forged blades in pristine condition) that are standard up and length. I also have rifle 6.0 px pulls that are on the way (less than 10 rounds, at my lengths already so no  trimming), so i was more concerned about technique if there is any. I have a torch, saw/pipe cutter, brush, etc. for the job. Is the epoxy with glass beads a good investment? also, (a bit off topic) what kind of bending could i do in the shaft and still be 'safe' ? loft: 2 degrees strong/weak too much? lie: 2 degrees up from standard too much?  I'm in the situation of going back to a set of heads that i used to own and thoroughly loved, however couldn't find a set in my specs 2* up and 1.25" long in my size, so i'm doing what i can to get great set back. I know how to regrip clubs, looking to put new shafts in these guys and hopefully take them to a local clubfitter whom i know well to bend em for me, just looking to do some preliminary know-how and shafting before i see him. Thanks alot for the info already and any more is GREATLY appreciated.

-Paul G from PA

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g

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Originally Posted by Gioguy21

Aright, here's the deal: i have clubs coming to me, (nike forged blades in pristine condition) that are standard up and length. I also have rifle 6.0 px pulls that are on the way (less than 10 rounds, at my lengths already so no  trimming), so i was more concerned about technique if there is any.



SO I am concerned already...you say the shafts are at your lengths already...not all hosel depths are the same,  so what is pulled from a club at 36 may work out to be 34.5 or 36.5 in your clubs...then again maybe not.  Club building is fun, not that hard but why spend all that money on a pristine set of Nikes only to fudge it up.  What about swingweight, shaft alignment etc...keep doing your research and I am sure it will be fine.

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip

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make a spine finder and work on FLOing them, works for irons too!  youtube- "spine shaft FLO"

KZG Gemini 9* Aldila Proto By You
Leyland COPlasma 3wd
Golfsmith Q4 19*
Louisville HyLofter 24*
Wishon 770CFEs w/Nippons
Alpha P2 wedges
Louisville EWP putter

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Originally Posted by tweaky

make a spine finder and work on FLOing them, works for irons too!  youtube- "spine shaft FLO"



2 different things of course. You can't get a true FLO with any old rubber clamp and a vice.

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon

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Originally Posted by weavej2

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gioguy21

Aright, here's the deal: i have clubs coming to me, (nike forged blades in pristine condition) that are standard up and length. I also have rifle 6.0 px pulls that are on the way (less than 10 rounds, at my lengths already so no  trimming), so i was more concerned about technique if there is any.

SO I am concerned already...you say the shafts are at your lengths already...not all hosel depths are the same,  so what is pulled from a club at 36 may work out to be 34.5 or 36.5 in your clubs...then again maybe not.  Club building is fun, not that hard but why spend all that money on a pristine set of Nikes only to fudge it up.  What about swingweight, shaft alignment etc...keep doing your research and I am sure it will be fine.


to help relieve concern, there are 12 (yes 12) shafts in the set and of lengths that are longer than i need so i can always trim them.

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g

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Originally Posted by LBlack14

Quote:

Originally Posted by tweaky

make a spine finder and work on FLOing them, works for irons too!  youtube- "spine shaft FLO"

2 different things of course. You can't get a true FLO with any old rubber clamp and a vice.


i'll look into the spine issue and talk to the guy at the shop about it. I want it done right, the first time.

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g

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