R11/Fujikura Blur shaft

Does anyone have any info on the Fujikura Blur shaft?

It comes stock in the R11 TP, and I would like to be able to use a stock shaft for once, and not go through a bunch of custom shaft BS. I mean, Golfsmith.com only let's you order with stock shafts, and my local Golf Galaxy is garbage when it comes to fitting. All they tell you is what loft you need and put you with the stock shaft in regular or stiff. I asked them is they carried the TM custom shafts and they said no. Out of curiosity I asked if they carry any X flex shafts and they even said no! No kind of decent shaft fitting there, I'm not wasting my money getting fitted there, and I'm not driving all over planet earth to find a decent clubfitter! My only option is to keep trying different shafts and figure it out by trial and error, which is very expensive and literally take months to find a proper shaft.

Now that that's off my chest, I read that the Blur is mid/high launch and low spin, and tourqe is right around 4, which is twice is high as my fubuki.  If that's the case, than it should be similar in launch conditions, but I'm not sure what exactly what tourqe means. I mean, I know what it is but not what it means for me. Will I see greater dispersion?

I ordered the blur 65 shaft in a R11 TP.  Should get to me later this week.  I also didn't want to go through the hassle and expense of a custom fitting.  Anyway, other than the TaylorMade site I can't find much of anything on the specs.  I do see that the blur 60 goes for $80 while the blur 65 is $200.  The blur 60 is the stock non-TP shaft.

http://www.golfcircuit.com/Taylor-Made-R11-Driver-Shafts/__3523.html

Torque is the torsional stability of the shaft.  It's possible that a higher torque shaft will have greater shot dispersion, but let's be honest.  At a 9 handicap, I don't think the TP/blur combo is going to hold you back.  It's felt great when I've hit it, and the numbers were perfectly acceptable.

If you really think the shaft is paramount, what exactly is wrong with your SuperDeep/Motore combo?

For me personally the blur shafts are great. You have a Motore F1 65 in X flex on your driver now so what kind of flight are you getting with that shaft. If you are getting good results then you will might get too high of launch with the blur's.

Found out from Eric at 300yards.com that the blur 65 specs are very close to the TS-65 listed in the table on the fujikura site.

http://www.fujikuragolf.com/woods/blur/

I have opportunity to buy a Fuji Blur shaft for  my R9 fairway wood . It has been reportedly "spined" to the NU position . I ordinarily play from the neutral or between the neutral and left positions . If I cannot adjust to the NU position , can anyone tell me how much of a disadvantage , if any , it might be to play this shaft from either of the two positions that I prefer to play from . Thanks .

You play RIP X so the stock shafts will not suit you.  No surprise here-- stock shafts are generally one flex weaker than original shafts.  For me, torque is related to the feel or tightness of the shaft.  The higher the torque, the looser it feels throughout the swing.  Torque is measured differently by various manufacturers, hence you cannot compared the numbers equally.  I recommend you buy your own shaft and TM sleeve and install it.  If you do your research, you're more knowledgeable than the employees at your local Golfsmith (or any golf retailer).  I took the trial and error route and found a shaft for a bargain, a Prolauch Platinum.  You'll have to do likewise, or shell out the dough and find a good fitter which is never your local golfshop.

Put a Blur on my Cobra driver rives got straighter, longer, higher. The new Cobra drivers come with Blur shafts - nuff said!

I am a 12 handicapper but would say my driving is more like a single figure player (struggle with chipping!).

I purchased a used, Blur shaft for my RBZ TP (10.5 degs) and I cannot believe the difference it has made in my driving. I was using  a stock shaft in stiff and broke it (through being childish). The Fuji Blur 65 in stiff has increased by drives by about 15-20 yards but it is the accuracy that had made the biggest difference. In the three weeks I have been using is (3 rounds), I play driver on 14 of the holes (per round) and hit 34 of the 42 fairways. I don't keep stats on my old shaft but there is no doubt the Blur is better.

I can't profess to know much about golf technology or, in particular, shaft models etc. However, if you are looking for feedback on the Blur 65 then I would honesty say give it a go. I guess a shaft is dependent on the individual swing but I would defo recommend it.

Cheers

Steve

Don't forget shafts make up about 5% of you ball flight....if you hit a bad shot...its you not the shaft.I have just got hold of a new driver with the perfect shaft for me(I think) and shot my best round ever in a medal on Saturday....now is it the shaft or me,consider the fact i only hit my driver 7 times, I think not...don't believe the shaft hype....

If the shaft does not fit your swing speed or the characteristics of the shaft do not fit your swing (load, transition, etc), it can do considerable damage.

Some stock shafts, like some stock TM shafts in previous years, have a horrid reputation even for guys without much speed.

So, I'll disagree with you.

Some stock shafts, like some stock TM shafts in previous years, have a horrid reputation even for guys without much speed.

I agree with this,but as i said the shaft has such little effect unless you have extreme swing speeds, for the most part.It should be irrelevant.

My last three shaft have been Diamana s+ real deal,Accra dymatch, Rombax 6z  and all 3 have had the same effect in ball flight.there just different to swing.

You're get more out off lessons than a shaft change,But people seem to like wasting £ on shafts.

Disagree.

It can have a major effect. If you are fit for an R flex with a smooth transition and don't load heavily, then tip and butt soft shaft with a stiffer midsection may make a drastic change as opposed to an R flex with tip stiff shaft, stiff mid and medium butt. The guy who does not load and with a smooth transition will not get the latter shaft in the air sufficiently, and the guy with a violent transition but an R flex speed will find himself all over the place with the former shaft.

I've been there, done that. Sure the club's loft and design has a huge effect. If you can't get the ball up with a club design, no shaft will help much. But if you need spin, then the right shaft can help normal guys.

All correct if as you say from one extreme to the other. But the guy on here (I've not been on here long so apologies in advance) and golfwrx seem to think shafts are the most important thing with fitting and hitting good shot.....This is NOT true. Shafts come into there own when you swing in excess of 110mph which most handicap golfers don't. loft is the most important factor. Even Lee Westwood now has 11.5* on his G25. Newer club heads really lower spin for everybody there for LOFT is the new king!

I contacted Fujikura concerning  their r11 shafts as I need to know the trimming instruction. I was given the information with the statement we can not be for sure since these are aftermarket shafts make for TaylorMade. So what you see is not what you are getting. I am not saying they are a bad shaft but I did spine all shafts before installing in my irons and everyone was way off.