Jump to content
IGNORED

Proper way to trim down driver shaft


Note: This thread is 3706 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Plain and simple.... what is the best way to take some length off of a driver shaft?

I got fit for a new shaft this off season and saved a boat load of money by putting it in myself. However, my driver is now 46" and I prefer 44.5". Gripping down doesn't feel right because of the taper of the grip. So, I'd like to take the extra 1.5" off.

What kind of tool should I use? I've been told a good plumber's pipe cutter would work well. I also have a jig saw with some really fine tooth blades. I thought I could put some masking tape around the shaft and cut through the tape to prevent splintering, but I've never messed with graphite before.

Thanks for any tips or help.

Driver: taylormade.gif Tour Burner 9.5*
4 Wood: taylormade.gif200 Steel 16*
Irons: taylormade.gif Burner '09
Wedges: taylormade.gif RAC TP Satin 54*, 58*
Putter: odyssey.gif White Hot Tour #9  Ball: bridgestone.gif B330

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I assume it's a graphite shaft so, DO NOT use a plumber's pipe cutter on a graphite shaft - they should only be used on steel shafts and even then, I don't really like them.  A hacksaw with a sharp blade is all you need to cut a graphite shaft.  Wrapping some masking tape around the shaft where you're cutting will help to prevent splintering but it's not necessary.  Some sandpaper to smooth the rough edges would also be a nice touch.

Finally, removing 1.5" from the butt end of the shaft will effect the swingweight.  For every 1/2" removed the club will decrease by 3 swingweights.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • 2 years later...

DO NOT CUT IT WITH A PIPE CUTTER OR A JIG SAW this will ruin your shaft by damaging the fibres which will make it useless.. If you have a chop saw you can use it. You can use a hack saw with the right blade (Tungsten Carbide wire cutting blade). You should check the cutting specifications for that particular shaft as well...it will have to come off the grip end at this point.

Good Luck

Perry O'Keefe

Link to comment
Share on other sites


So how do you reduce the length without doing in the swingweight? Will cutting form the tip not increase/ strengthen the flex?

How much will the average player notice the change in swing weight? What does it mean to your average Joe?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Not dead sure on SW,  its at 45.75" standard on an old (2010) R Flex Nike SQ Machspeed (the original yellow and black one). I guess its about D2. The stock shaft just seems to work for me UST AXIV Core whatever it is. Seems to play a touch firm for an R FLex which is probably why it suits me floating at about 95mph SS

I just can't get that old dog out of my bag. I have always found the shaft a bit long and have always just gripped down a bit, but would like to lop it to 45"

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Plain and simple.... what is the best way to take some length off of a driver shaft?

I got fit for a new shaft this off season and saved a boat load of money by putting it in myself. However, my driver is now 46" and I prefer 44.5". Gripping down doesn't feel right because of the taper of the grip. So, I'd like to take the extra 1.5" off.

What kind of tool should I use? I've been told a good plumber's pipe cutter would work well. I also have a jig saw with some really fine tooth blades. I thought I could put some masking tape around the shaft and cut through the tape to prevent splintering, but I've never messed with graphite before.

Thanks for any tips or help.

best tool to cut both graphite and metal shafts is a dremel tool with cutoff wheel.    Zip zip, done.

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 3706 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Popular Now

  • Posts

    • Again, I’m not an expert so take it with a grain of salt My question is whether laying back even further becomes too conservative and that strategy is suboptimal as a result? Essentially what’s the cost of guaranteed longer second shot vs the x% risk for hitting the bunker? I think the optimal way to answer the question is looking at strokes gained, in consideration of the hazards and penalties, and picking the strategy that maximizes SG off the tee. I’ve seen some apps that do this but I’m not sure how accurate they are.   And again, asking all this so I can learn what I should be doing in these situations rather than questioning your approach Bill. I would give an example of the course I’m joining this year where I plan to aim at the bunker, but I don’t want to take over your swing thread any further!
    • What @DeadMan said. From the satellite it looks like there's tall grass to the right, long of the fairway post-dog-leg. But left it just looks like regular rough all the way to the neighboring tee boxes. If that's true I'm aiming left edge of the green and bombs away every time, hoping for a 30-70 yard up and down opportunity.
    • What's the case against blasting a driver at the green? I'm guessing it puts the penalty area/fescue too much into play, but if that's just standard rough around the green, there would be a good case for it. If it's not driver, then I agree with your approach. The one thing I would add is to shade your aim towards the bunkers vs. center of the fairway. Hitting out of a bunker is (marginally) better than a penalty drop.
    • Yes, if you are gonna layup, then layup. No need to nickle and dime a few extra yards and bring bunker back into play.    
    • Took my wedges in to get regripped and saw the local store had some leftover Pure grips, was pretty excited to see those still around. Got those put onto my wedges, I love these grips, they have such a great feel to them. Also picked up a brand new (opened and second hand) Cleveland Huntington Beach putter for a great price! About %50 of retail. It had been purchased by someone else who decided to buy a different putter and was never used. I love the feel of it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...