Jump to content
IGNORED

Getting a new set of irons: need input


Note: This thread is 6214 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Here is the brief background:

I am currently 24. I played golf regulary in high school...shot consistently in the low 80s. I then went to college to play baseball, and did not play golf much at all for about 5 years.

So, I am now done with baseball, after brief stint in the minors, and I am now wanting to get my golf game back.

I had a golf buddy in college give me a set of his old Mizuno MP33's, but about a year ago, I realized I was not good enough to hit those (shooting high 80's to low 90's) so I ordered a set of Ping I3's off ebay. (I did the internet custom fit thing-white dot +1 inch). Those were solid irons, but they were recently stolen.

So...I am looking for new irons. My thoughts are that I really like the feel of Pings. I have demo'ed the G5's and have hit them great, both on the range and in a simulator at the pga superstore.

I am still in the "game improvement" area (bogey golfer)...so I am thinking the Ping G5's will be a solid choice.

My biggest issue is trying to decide in which shaft. I swing the 6-iron between 98-105mph (driver 108-112mph). (190-210 yards with 6-iron-in the simulator) I am hearing different things from different salesmen, buddies, etc...and I want to make sure I get the right shaft if I am spending this kind of money.

Do I got with TT DG Stiff or X-stiff...one worker said to go witht he ping cs-lite stiff.

I guess I am asking for some input on the Ping G5 irons, and also some advice on shaft selection.

Thanks for any insight!
Link to comment
Share on other sites


If you liked the I3's then sticking with Ping would be a good idea. I haven't personally hit the G5's but have read nice things about them. Hey, the i3's aren't that old, you could always buy another set of those

As far as shaft that is really tough to determine without seeing you swing. My first thought would be something in a stiff (I'd leave those X-stiff irons for tour players) but swing speed really isn't the only factor when determening a flex. Have you hit these shafts? In the era of ebay, etc. getting the right fit has become a lost art.

Driver: 09 Launcher 10.5
4 Wood: 09 Launcher Steel 17
Hybrid: Baffler DWS 20 Aldila Reg
Irons: AP1 4-GW Steel
Wedges: 588 Gunmetal 56 & 60Putter: Studio Style Newport 2Ball: NXT Tour

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I have not hit with any DG shafts, except for the ones in my Vokey Wedges. The G5's I demo'ed had the CS-light ping shafts in them. I am somewhat of a newbie in terms of gold technology, but what I have been reading is that faster, harder swingers need heavier shafts, so that is why I thougt about going with something like the DG stiff. From my internet reading, I am guessing that lighter shafts help get the ball in the air...I get the ball up pretty easy, nice high ball flight.

The CS-lite ping stiff shaft is like 107g where the DG stiff (s-300) is like 130g.

Ant insight into the weight of the shafts?
Link to comment
Share on other sites


It depends what your looking for, coming from ping cs-lite to DG S300 I found that the cs-lite had a much higher ball flight than DG S300. DG S300 help me also in keeping a smooth tempo as they are heavier and stopped me from overswinging. However, If your trying to gain distance stick with the cs-lite, if you want control, go for the DG S300. Try out the i5's too as they will give you more feedback and willl ultimately help you improve quicker, you should be able to handle them. Go with stiff too.
In My Bag:
Driver: 905t, 9.5*, Grafalloy Blue Stiff
3-Wood: 906f2, 15*, NV-S
Hybrid: 585h, 19*, NV-S
Irons: 735.CM, DG S300Wedges: CG10 52*, 56*, Vokey Spin Milled 60*Putter: Studio Style Newport 2Ball: One PlatinumHome Course: Stoke Park Club
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Seeing that you have no problem in distance, 190 6 iron, you would probably benefit more from DG S300. Cs-lite also feels softer which is a personal preference. To be honest, unless you're really good, i doubt you're gonna tell the difference between the two. DG S300 (which is stiff) is also the most popular iron shaft so you cannot go wrong.
In My Bag:
Driver: 905t, 9.5*, Grafalloy Blue Stiff
3-Wood: 906f2, 15*, NV-S
Hybrid: 585h, 19*, NV-S
Irons: 735.CM, DG S300Wedges: CG10 52*, 56*, Vokey Spin Milled 60*Putter: Studio Style Newport 2Ball: One PlatinumHome Course: Stoke Park Club
Link to comment
Share on other sites


before you decide check out the Adams Pro Line.

About 20 years ago I gave up the game for 5 years when we had our kids.

I think you'll find the Adams a surprisingly good choice that will last a long time. They are perimeter weighted by have a more classic look. Set includes two hybrids.

Mr. 208
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Mizuno MX 25's or the Callaway X-20's
In The Bag

Driver: FT3 -or- TMTB
Woods: Cobra F-Speed
Hybrids: Cally FT, 3 & 4Irons: T/M R7TP's, W/PX 5.5 Wedge: Cally X-Forged, 52 & 58Putter: S/C Studio II Ballz: T/M Black -or- Prov1X
Link to comment
Share on other sites


The DG X100 shaft will make you hit the ball lower and will have a tendency to make the ball go right. All depends on what you are trying to achieve with your ball flight. If you think you hit it a good height at the moment stick with what you've got, if you tend to hook the ball maybe you'd be better using the X100's. Also depends on whether or not you like to feel as though you're really having to swing hard through the ball...

My advice is go to be custom fit at the factory
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I decided to hold off on trying to guess myself, or take one salesmen's advice. I have a scheduled fitting at Sea Island Golf Learning Center this weekend. They won Ping's 2002 "Custon Club Fitter" of the year award. I figure they will help my fine-tune my shaft decsision. I will probably also swing a few other clubs to really narrow down which ones are the best for me.

I can sure see how custon clubs will improve your game, especially if you are not a normal size person (I am 6'4, and have a fast swing), but it sure does make you 2nd guess yourself with all the options that are available now-a-days!

Thanks for all the great input...and keep it coming...

I will let everyone know how the fitting goes this weekend.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Those were my final two. I went with the Mizuno's, should be here by Friday. Still not sure I made the right choice.

I think you made a great choice. My last set was the MX 23'S and I'm told that the 25's are even more fine-tuned.

When I bought my 23's I was at least a 25-30 and they played the largest role in helping me get down to a 12. They're confidence builders at the set-up, very friendly, soft as any other forged iron and VERY forgiving. I just traded my 2-week old Callaway X-Forged irons for a new set of the Mizuno MP 32's..... Wish me luck
In The Bag

Driver: FT3 -or- TMTB
Woods: Cobra F-Speed
Hybrids: Cally FT, 3 & 4Irons: T/M R7TP's, W/PX 5.5 Wedge: Cally X-Forged, 52 & 58Putter: S/C Studio II Ballz: T/M Black -or- Prov1X
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Because everyone's suggesting a specific kind of shaft, I think you should not just take it as it is. However, it should be something that you would consider. There's no telling until you try it, because I believe every swing is different. I read that Dynamic Gold S300 seems to have the highest recommendation here, but don't stop there. Try the new Project-X, Dynalite Gold SL, or even NS Pro (I like this shaft very much, by the way). Also, you need to try different flexes on every shaft's brand. I'm sure you already know this, but every brand has its own measurement of flex. Not to mention different kind of weights. From what I read about your swing speed, I think you would do well with either Regular or Stiff flex. As far as weight, I'd suggest you to try NS Pro 950GH or 1150GH, or Dynalite Gold SL. They weight from 95-110ish grams. Hope this helps.
What's in the bag:
Driver: r7 SuperQuad 10.5° ~ UST Proforce V2 65g Regular
Wood: 906F4 18.5° ~ Aldila VS Proto 80g Stiff
Irons: MP-60 3-PW ~ True Temper Tour Concept S3
Wedges: Vokey Oil Can 252.08, SM56.10 & SM60.08Putter: Marxman Mallet 33"
Link to comment
Share on other sites


One thing to consider with the Dynalite SL shaft is that ball trajectory will be MUCH higher than what you would get with the Dynamic Gold or Dynamic Gold SL. These shafts on on opposite ends of the ball trajectory height spectrum.

Scott
Driver: Nike Dymo² Str8-Fit 9.5° UST AXIV Core 69 Stiff
3 Wood: Nike Sumo² 3 Wood 15° Aldila VS Proto 65 Stiff
Hybrid: Cobra Baffler Pro 3/R 20° DGS300
Irons: Titleist AP2 3-PW PX 5.5 (+ 1/2" and 2° upright)
Wedge: Titleist Vokey Design 200 Series 52°/8° Wedge: Titleist Vokey...
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thanks Phil. I hope you're right. They did feel pretty sweet during the limited amount of time I hit them.

I know alot of people are sending alot of different suggestions your way, including the shaft suggestions, but just rely on the fact that Mizzy isn't going to put a sub-par shaft on a great club. If you like it in your hands, it's what you think you're looking for and your comfortable, then don't add to it with the shaft B.S.... Just get your shaft flex right and play-away... keep it in the short grass Phil
In The Bag

Driver: FT3 -or- TMTB
Woods: Cobra F-Speed
Hybrids: Cally FT, 3 & 4Irons: T/M R7TP's, W/PX 5.5 Wedge: Cally X-Forged, 52 & 58Putter: S/C Studio II Ballz: T/M Black -or- Prov1X
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I hear ya. I tend to hit the ball high anyway, so I'll start out with the stock shafts and if after playing them a while, I want a little lowr ball flight I will switch then.

I just want them to hurry up and get here. I have a round scheduled for Saturday, and I don't even really want to play without the new sticks.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 6214 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • I did not realize that, I was thinking a more traditional golf club.  
    • Thanks for the feedback. @StuM, we are a "club without real estate" so no facilities or pro. We have a membership of around 185 players and we only play together as a group at our tournaments, which are held at public access courses. A group of us setup the tournaments, collect the money and dole out the prizes.
    • In general, granting free relief anywhere on the course isn't recommended.  Similarly, when marking GUR, the VSGA and MAPGA generally don't mark areas that are well away from the intended playing lines, no matter how poor the conditions.  If you hit it far enough offline, you don't necessarily deserve free relief.  And you don't have to damage clubs, take unplayable relief, take the stroke, and drop the ball in a better spot.
    • If it's not broken don't fix it. If you want to add grooves to it just because of looks that's your choice of course. Grooves are cut into putter faces to reduce skid, the roll faced putter is designed to do the same thing. I'm no expert but it seems counter productive to add grooves to the roll face. Maybe you can have it sand-blasted or something to clean up the face. Take a look at Tigers putter, its beat to hell but he still uses it.     
    • I get trying to limit relief to the fairway, but how many roots do you typically find in the fairway? Our local rule allows for relief from roots & rocks anywhere on the course (that is in play). My home course has quite a few 100 year old oaks that separate the fairways. Lift and move the ball no closer to the hole. None of us want to damage clubs.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...