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Iron Question


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How can you tell if a set of irons are too hard to hit for you or vice versa?

Driver: Undecided..Someone help me decide
Fast 12 3 Wood 15* Stiff Shaft
A12 3 Hybrid 19* Stiff Shaft
CB Blade Irons (4-7) Dynamic Gold X-100 Shafts
MB Blade Irons (8-PW) Dynamic Gold X-100 Shafts
SM4 52* Oil Can Wedge - S300 Shaft
SM4 56* Oil Can Wedge - S300 Shaft
SM4 60* Oil Cal Wedge - Wedge Flex
2010 California Series - Monterey - 35'

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Originally Posted by Mr. Desmond

Hit them.



Obviously, but while hitting them, how can you tell if they're right for you? Nevermind, I'm just going to get fitted.

Driver: Undecided..Someone help me decide
Fast 12 3 Wood 15* Stiff Shaft
A12 3 Hybrid 19* Stiff Shaft
CB Blade Irons (4-7) Dynamic Gold X-100 Shafts
MB Blade Irons (8-PW) Dynamic Gold X-100 Shafts
SM4 52* Oil Can Wedge - S300 Shaft
SM4 56* Oil Can Wedge - S300 Shaft
SM4 60* Oil Cal Wedge - Wedge Flex
2010 California Series - Monterey - 35'

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Figure it out by seeing how the trajectory is, how are the average shots? Anyone can hit a muscle back blade but golf is about how bad our misses are, not how good our good shots are. Also need to hit the ball a certain height to get good distance, hold greens etc.
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Mike McLoughlin

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Yes.  Comparing the spectrum/transition from super game-improvement irons down to blades, the former are generally much more forgiving and designed to get the ball in the air with extreme perimeter weighting, wider soles, more offset--i.e. they're designed for average golfers who don't hit the center of the clubface often, have erratic club/turf interaction, and need help hitting the ball high.

As one's swing gets better, one doesn't need as much of those features, especially because extreme perimeter weighting affects feel/feedback (esp on mishits) and makes it harder to work the ball, chunky soles make it harder to play a variety of shots (i.e. opening the face a lot for a flop), and it's more difficult to control trajectory with an extremely low center of gravity.

As what's right for any particular golfer as mentioned by others is completely arbitrary, depending on what type of shots one likes to hit and what works best for those shots.

And of course, ego gets to most of us (me certainly) in terms of thinking we don't need much help in our games and wanting to try the same variety of shots the pro's do with the same sticks they use (which these days by the way are rarely old-school musclebacks, as most current "players irons" still pack a lot of game improvement features, but they hide them in a smaller more traditional look at address).

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Driver: Cleveland Classic 270, 10.5*
Fairway Woods: Adams Speedline LP (3 & 5)
Hybrids: Wilson Staff Fybrids 21*, 24*, UST V2 stiff
Irons: Callaway X-20 Tour, 5-PW, Rifle Project-X (flighted) 6.0
Wedges: Cleveland CG15 DSG 52* & 58* +/- 56* Niblick

Putter: Yes! Amy

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Great pointers, thanks drglew.

Originally Posted by drglew

Yes.  Comparing the spectrum/transition from super game-improvement irons down to blades, the former are generally much more forgiving and designed to get the ball in the air with extreme perimeter weighting, wider soles, more offset--i.e. they're designed for average golfers who don't hit the center of the clubface often, have erratic club/turf interaction, and need help hitting the ball high.

As one's swing gets better, one doesn't need as much of those features, especially because extreme perimeter weighting affects feel/feedback (esp on mishits) and makes it harder to work the ball, chunky soles make it harder to play a variety of shots (i.e. opening the face a lot for a flop), and it's more difficult to control trajectory with an extremely low center of gravity.

As what's right for any particular golfer as mentioned by others is completely arbitrary, depending on what type of shots one likes to hit and what works best for those shots.

And of course, ego gets to most of us (me certainly) in terms of thinking we don't need much help in our games and wanting to try the same variety of shots the pro's do with the same sticks they use (which these days by the way are rarely old-school musclebacks, as most current "players irons" still pack a lot of game improvement features, but they hide them in a smaller more traditional look at address).



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Don't forget about the shaft. If a player's driver clubhead speed is 85 mph or below, he probably doesn't want stiff shafts in his irons. Too much stiffness robs you of distance, PLUS, it may make it more difficult to get the ball airborne consistently.

I play game improvement irons with regular flex, flighted shafts (averages out midkick). I had tried some SGI irons with low kick (high launch) shafts, but these irons popped the ball up in the air too much. Hit lots of different irons in early 2009 when making my switch from stiff to regular shafts.

A good clubfitter can help you interpret the launch monitor data to see what swing and trajectory tendencies you have. Then, you can get an idea of which iron/shaft combos would work best for you. Also, whether you're new to the game or a long-time player, you can learn a lot about golf clubs and how they work from a good fitter. You can also go onto the OEM websites, or get some of Ralph Maltby's books. http://www.ralphmaltby.com/

In the end, it comes down to which irons you hit well, and which "feel best." There were four models of irons - from three different companies - which I could hit reasonably well. But, the ones I play were the ones which "felt best."

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Note: This thread is 4549 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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