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Should I Get a Taylormade R5 dual or a R5 dual TP at a similar price?


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Hello, im a about a 29-30 capper and in the market for a new driver. Im very interested in the Taylormade R5 series to correct at times a nice fade to nasty slice.

I typically line up down the left rough and on a good shot i will fade into the fairway, on a bad one, im looking way right.

I have read alot about the TM R5 dual and have decided to get one. Since they are no longer made i have looked to ebay and have found that i can get a new R5 TP for about 30-40$ more than a R5 Dual.

When new, the TP model was around $600,

As a big capper should i bother with the TP model? I have read that it is set up the same as a R5 dual (N) but gives you moveable weights and a nicer shaft.

My thinking is, i dont want to buy the R5 Draw model, and am worried that the R5 Neutral model may not be enough? I would think the TP, which comes set up as a neutral, would be nice and if im still slicing, i could modify the weights.

Any opinions on this club? Should a high capper stay away from TP Clubs?

Im thinking 9.5 with a stif flex (swing around 95-100), but im a pretty big guy and the golf store said to be safe i should go with a stiff. They also said as i get more confortable on the Tee, my swing will speed up a few mph.

Any thoughts?
Thanks

edit FYI on ebay

New R5 Dual Approx $150
New R5 Dual TP Approx $175
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I swing at about 100 mph (and I'm 6'4''), and I do a hell of a lot better with a regular shaft. Just my two cents, though.

As to the driver, I'd go with anything that has adjustable weights, and/or a draw bias. I used to have a nasty slice that would go just as far, if not further, to the right than it would go out. I solved that problem by closing the clubface slightly and hitting a driver with a draw bias (now, most of my tee shots are nice, long draws but there's still the occasional banana ball).
"Shouldn't you be going faster? I mean, you're doing 40 in a 65..."

Driver: Burner TP 9.5*
3 Wood: 906F2 15*
2I: Eye 23I-PW: 3100 I/HWedges: Vokey Spin-Milled 56*06, MP-R 52*07/60*05Putter: Victoria IIBall: Pro V1xCheck out my new blog: Thousand Yard DriveHome Course: Kenton County...
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Thanks for the reply Lamenbums.

On the stiffness...I almost felt i was swinging harder than i normally do at the golf shop, I ranged from about 95-98mph, but i think i was trying to kill the ball in there..

I would like to swing easier and hit the ball longer (yeah, doesnt everyone...)

Do you think i should be looking at a R flex instead of a S.

Im about 6-3 280ish (+ or -)

Im not really sure what difference it makes?

I also want something that would last as my game (hopefully) improves.

Thanks
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Don't be scared of the "D" bias on the R5. A well struck shot may draw 5-10 yards. I have experienced that MOST folks are using a shaft that is too stiff for them. I have seen a touring pro use a regular flex shaft in an exhibition and just crush the ball perfectly straight (it was just too high for his liking) I might suggest getting the Regular flex R5 D 10.5. I have not seen your swing but you say that you are a high 20, and that is what I would suggest to anyone in your shoes. Also, TM's customer service is second to none. By the way, International Golf has the drivers for $149..


Mike

R5 Dual 9.5
F50 16.5
R7 TP 3-PW
RAC Satin 52 and 56 deg
Vokey 59 deg Studio Newport 2 HX Tour 56

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Mike, do you think i should stay away from the TP @ $175ish??

I didnt want to commit to the draw club sinse i was hoping to correct my swing, not swing poorly with a different club. On the TP i could really set the club up to be either D or N. Thats why it seemed to be worth the extra $25 to me. I just dont want to buy a tour club if they are "harder to hit" or if there is another reason a high capper should avoid them.

Thanks for your opinions & information!
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Well, I would be more concerned about the face angle of the TP rather then the shaft. The TPs typically have a more open face angle, so unless you are wanting to get rid of a draw and want a more conistant fade the TPs are not a good club for you if you miss is way right, you are just going to miss more to the right.
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Flex also helps determine your ball flight. I have a very fast swing speed and high ball flight so I play an Xstiff flex with a mid kick point. If you hit the ball really high, consider the stiff. IF your ball flight is normal to low, I wouldn't reccomend it.

Also, I'd go with the regular model instead of TP. The tour models usually are set up for people who want to "work the ball" off the tee. If you are good enough to hit a draw or fade on command, that's great. Otherwise the regular model would be better. I tried an SQ tour last year. The face was set one degree open. I went from hitting a nice draw with my old driver to hitting a fade and my misses became slices. I wouldn't reccomend the Tour model unless you are VERY good off the tee and want to be able to work the ball.

In The Bag

Driver R7 SuperQuad 8.5 Xstiff
5 Wd SQ X stiff steel
3-PW RAC LT X stiff 52 dg RAC TP Satin56 dg RAC TP Satin60 dg Vokey Oil CanPutter Cameron Studio Newport

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Have you looked at the Callaway X460? Its come down in price drastically since the new Big Bertha 460 came out. I got one and I love it. The face is 2 degrees closed at address reducing the potential for major banana balls. If you have a relatively modest swing speed, say 85-95 mph, go for a regular shaft and a decent amount of loft (13 degrees).

I've found mine to be pretty forgiving and even I can bomb the ball satisfactorily with this. You might just be surprised at the results.

Taylormade r7 460
Callaway X 3 Wood
Callaway X 5 Wood
Callaway X 7 Wood
Callaway X Hybrid (24*)TaylorMade r7 Irons (5-PW)Mizuno MP-R Series Wedges (52,58 degrees)Ping G2 Anser Putter

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If you're trying to prevent a slice your money's best spent, of course, on lessons. Or books and range balls. Eliminating a slice is relatively easy with sound fundamentals... I mention it because I was in exactly the same (banana) boat a few years back. With a bit of work, I now have a slight draw with my irons and generally hit it straight with my "ham on a stick" high-moi driver. Every non-TP club I've tried from TaylorMade has generally led to wild, painful hooks.

If you're set on an R5 you should think about how long you think you'll have the club and whether you are going to be working hard to improve your swing. If you're set on fixing the swing flaws that lead to a slice I'd vote for the TP with more options later and the square face. If you're not -- which is OK too -- than an R5 D might be a better option.

With a 30 handicap, I'd also suggest a little looking around for more forgiving clubs before you pull the trigger. I traded my R5TP for a Cleveland Launcher and loved it. New drivers are coming out every 4 minutes, so there's tons of great deals on Ebay. Whatever you end up with, have fun!
Cleveland - HiBore XL (9.5* Fuji Fit-On Gold Stiff)
Bobby Jones/Jesse Ortiz - 3W & 21* H3 (Stock Stiff)
Ben Hogan - Apex FTX 4-FW (Apex 4 shafts)
TaylorMade - rac TP 56.12 satin & 60.6 black
Scotty Cameron - Mil-Spec Newport 2 (33" standard)
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Hm, I have an R5 Dual 10.5 N Stiff and the R5 Dual TP 10.5 Reg.
I hit more fairways with the stiff shaft compared to the Regular.
Also can hit more draws with the stiff compared to the Reg. They are both N faces but the TP has an open face vs. a degree or so closed on the Std R5.
Suprisingly the distance is roughly the same out of each. Like someone else here said, I think the Std R5 is a better fit unless your Hdcp is low enough to start working the ball. I also suspect the closed face might reduce your slices.
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I am not suggesting the "D" series to correct your fade/slice, but it is proven that a slight draw adds yards to your drive. The Draw biased drivers have a slightly higher weight in the heel to promote a draw. They will not fix a slice!!! It will however decrease the amount the ball does travel when spun to the right or left. The TP model has very little offset, which basically means if your hands aren't perfect at impact, the chance of hitting a wild drive increases. With that said, you can most certainly work the ball with a non-TP model. I can work it 15-20 yards and more with a non TP R5. All of the previous suggestions and recommendations are great and I wish you luck on your choice. Just be careful with the R5 Dual TP for $179 from E-Bay. There have been alot of "TP" knock-offs sold on E-Bay with Taylor Made's name on them..

Mike

R5 Dual 9.5
F50 16.5
R7 TP 3-PW
RAC Satin 52 and 56 deg
Vokey 59 deg Studio Newport 2 HX Tour 56

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Note: This thread is 6195 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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