You're right. There's an oddly large gap around Jacksonville. I'll look into that for you.
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My Edel Wedges (Or "Super Bounce and Why It's Good For You" or "The Sweet Spot is Finally in the... - Page 5
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Ok, after both demoing some Edel wedges at a local club on their putting green, and then being fitted for my own, I can honestly say that these are the real deal.
Turns out I need a lot of bounce, and damn, its nice to have playing different wedge shots from all distances. For once a wedge felt like every other club in my bag. Effortless. Shots stopping and checking up on the green immediately. They cant shoot where I dont aim them, lol, but they definitely go where they should. I ordered a set of 5, and while I dont reccomend most get a set that big, if you can afford to spend the extra money on wedged, try edel.
If you cant spend that on wedges, find yourself something with lots of bounce and give it a shot. You may need it more than you knew.
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I think I posted this somewhere, probably in this thread, but I must say my 60 is becoming my go-to wedge inside of 60 yards. Today I had about 50 yards, maybe 45, and I played a little buzzer that may not have gotten ten feet off the ground, took two hops, and stopped dead two feet from the hole for my third on a par five. Awesome, delicious shot that I didn't really have before - I would be too afraid of digging and not being able to get the club out of the ground. My divot with this shot was a little tuft of dirt and grass - barely into the roots.
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Ok, after both demoing some Edel wedges at a local club on their putting green, and then being fitted for my own, I can honestly say that these are the real deal.
Turns out I need a lot of bounce, and damn, its nice to have playing different wedge shots from all distances. For once a wedge felt like every other club in my bag. Effortless. Shots stopping and checking up on the green immediately. They cant shoot where I dont aim them, lol, but they definitely go where they should. I ordered a set of 5, and while I dont reccomend most get a set that big, if you can afford to spend the extra money on wedged, try edel.
If you cant spend that on wedges, find yourself something with lots of bounce and give it a shot. You may need it more than you knew.
Congrats!! What specs did you get on each wedge? Would like to see some photos too when you get them!
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I get why "super bounce" can be a good thing. Do you get the same benefits opening the face and swinging left with a standard wedge?
Also, I hear from various sources, not just here but, e.g. Stan Utley, that bounce is good and not to be feared on a tight lie - but very often those same people have a heel grind that takes the bounce out of play for tricky shots. So I'm confused - when is the bounce actually a problem?

I get why "super bounce" can be a good thing. Do you get the same benefits opening the face and swinging left with a standard wedge?
Also, I hear from various sources, not just here but, e.g. Stan Utley, that bounce is good and not to be feared on a tight lie - but very often those same people have a heel grind that takes the bounce out of play for tricky shots. So I'm confused - when is the bounce actually a problem?
The bounce can be really high and it won't hurt. But remember these wedges have a ton of grind. The bounce angle can be measured at 22˚ but the leading edge is barely off the ground. If the sole had no camber (was not rounded from leading to trailing edge), was wide, and had no heel relief, the leading edge would be way off the ground and you'd have a hard time not blading the ball. Even more so if the face was open.
You can usually get the benefits of bounce by opening the face, but it lifts the leading edge more unless there's heel relief. This means you need a pretty fluffy lie to get the clubface on the ball. Pitching off a green like in this thread is going to be hopeless because there's nothing for the bounce to glide through except hard dirt. Grass and loose sand will get displaced by the sole with a little extra force, but turf not so much. The trailing edge and heel relief mean you still get some effective bounce where you need it, but it's displacing a lot less turf with the face open.
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Umm, there seems to be a 2500-mile gap around Hawaii. WTF??!!?
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I hit these wedges right handed and could not believe how impressive they are. As other's have said the grind helps the club sit very close to the ground yet you really feel the bounce working. The highest bounce that I hit was 22* and it was awesome so I can't even imagine how good the even higher bounces will play. They are simply the best wedge I've ever hit by a long shot. I was also told that they will be offered in lefty in February so I will definately be adding these to the bag unless James Patrick starts making wedges in lefty. Great clubs for sure.

The bounce can be really high and it won't hurt. But remember these wedges have a ton of grind. The bounce angle can be measured at 22˚ but the leading edge is barely off the ground. If the sole had no camber (was not rounded from leading to trailing edge), was wide, and had no heel relief, the leading edge would be way off the ground and you'd have a hard time not blading the ball. Even more so if the face was open.
You can usually get the benefits of bounce by opening the face, but it lifts the leading edge more unless there's heel relief. This means you need a pretty fluffy lie to get the clubface on the ball. Pitching off a green like in this thread is going to be hopeless because there's nothing for the bounce to glide through except hard dirt. Grass and loose sand will get displaced by the sole with a little extra force, but turf not so much. The trailing edge and heel relief mean you still get some effective bounce where you need it, but it's displacing a lot less turf with the face open.
Well - I basically agree. I'm not sure there's much point talking up the benefits of "bounce" if you're only talking about a bounce angle, absent the heel relief, sole width, camber etc.
Still - you've already stated that you like a larger amount of bounce in soft conditions - but less off a tight lie. People here are talking about hitting high bounce wedges off tight lies, dirt and greens. That's the viewpoint I'd like to understand better. If the answer is a steep bounce angle, but such a narrow effective sole that the leading edge sits as low as a wider soled, low bounce wedge - then fine, I'd just like to understand that. (It's maybe not much different to the grind on Ping Eye 2+)
Still, you get Stan Utley preaching 12* bounce across the sole, but using a ground heel. He says he can still use the full bounce out of the car park, so what's the heel relief for?

Well - I basically agree. I'm not sure there's much point talking up the benefits of "bounce" if you're only talking about a bounce angle, absent the heel relief, sole width, camber etc.
Still - you've already stated that you like a larger amount of bounce in soft conditions - but less off a tight lie. People here are talking about hitting high bounce wedges off tight lies, dirt and greens. That's the viewpoint I'd like to understand better. If the answer is a steep bounce angle, but such a narrow effective sole that the leading edge sits as low as a wider soled, low bounce wedge - then fine, I'd just like to understand that. (It's maybe not much different to the grind on Ping Eye 2+)
Still, you get Stan Utley preaching 12* bounce across the sole, but using a ground heel. He says he can still use the full bounce out of the car park, so what's the heel relief for?
Every player has its own fingerprint. If you have a shaft lean of 10* and you have an attack angle of 12* then when you hit to make it a neutral position you would need 22* of bounce. It doesn't matter what your on, soupy lie or hard pan your neutralizing out your angles.
I was always taught on hard pan to put my ball position way back and trap it. When you have the ball back in your stance you have to have a steeper angle of attack because now your now hitting down at which you would need more bounce to neutralize the angles.
If I'm in soupy lie and no where to go and I have to play it. I will drop my right foot back to shallow out my swing and then play the ball in my front of my stance, this way I can swing through it and have no worries of hitting it fat. (Keeping my nose with or just in front of golf ball)
The reason Edel has given so much heel relief is 2 fold. It reduces the weight in the heel to move the COG to the center of club face as well as when you are in a very deep rough it will slice through easier and not get as caught as if you have a lot of mass through there.

Every player has its own fingerprint. If you have a shaft lean of 10* and you have an attack angle of 12* then when you hit to make it a neutral position you would need 22* of bounce. It doesn't matter what your on, soupy lie or hard pan your neutralizing out your angles.
I was always taught on hard pan to put my ball position way back and trap it. When you have the ball back in your stance you have to have a steeper angle of attack because now your now hitting down at which you would need more bounce to neutralize the angles.
If I'm in soupy lie and no where to go and I have to play it. I will drop my right foot back to shallow out my swing and then play the ball in my front of my stance, this way I can swing through it and have no worries of hitting it fat. (Keeping my nose with or just in front of golf ball)
The reason Edel has given so much heel relief is 2 fold. It reduces the weight in the heel to move the COG to the center of club face as well as when you are in a very deep rough it will slice through easier and not get as caught as if you have a lot of mass through there.
Agree with everything you wrote - except possibly the arithmetic. Surely "neutral" bounce would equal your forward lean - or to be more precise (and account for shaft flex), the reduction from static loft to dynamic loft. I don't see how you would add shaft lean and AoA. Typically, I believe, when people steepen their AoA they also increase shaft lean and reduce dynamic loft - but I don't think this means you add the 2 together to get a "bounce requirement". I think you just need more bounce angle than the amount by which you deloft the clubface.
New to this forum but long time on others. Just wanted to get in late to this party and my $0.02 on these wedges after half a season in play. After going through a mock fitting and being the guinea pig to learn about the product (all others on shift that day were lefties) so I had a quick fit with one of the dealers here in Ontario. As mentioned, had the 60* in my hands as he didn't have a 58* (my usualy LW loft) and I hit a number of different bounce and grind options until we got to the digger (which I am).
I could hit every shot under the sun with that wedge all the while getting used to the high degree of bounce (was 27* for mine), right up to super flop shots that would go 15'-20' straight up and could land 8' in front of me. I was so impressed that I ordered 50-54-58 in diggers. These heads ended up getting paired up with DG Spinner shafts. The spinners were a bit new to me (had played Rifle spinners in the past) as recently I had just played stock S200's.
This is where I think part of the problem came in as for 1/2, 3/4 shots, the shafts preformed well with the trajectory that I liked, but on fuller more aggressive shots, my yardages became a mess. I could spin back a 50* off the green, but hit and stick to minimal roll out with my 58*. I also became so inconsistent with my 50* and 54* on full shots that I was almost 1 club shorter then my previous Vokey's. LW yardage stayed the same at 95ish yards comfortably, but 54* went to 105 and 50* to 115 (previous was 54* 115, 50* 125*). As I said, likely a shaft issue rather then the heads.
In turn, I do like the wedges, but I can't say that they helped out my game hugely over the season. I'm still a digger and can take some serious pelts out of the turf, even with high bounce wedges. I also became uncomfortable playing shots with my LW off harder turf because of the bounce (coming off 4*/7* from my previous LW's). As for bang for the buck, its hard to say that vs. some Vokey's with all the different bounce and grind options that its worth the big difference in cost. I know the stamping is cool and the the different finishes, but my 3 wedges cost me $540 all in, that's a pretty high price for a wedge set.
I may over the winter change out the shafts to match my X100's in my irons, or maybe S400's. But the heads are solid, just takes a little to get used to them sd they look different from everything else out there for sure.
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