how to hit a draw?

I have a slight over the top swing my normal shot is 10-15yd fade, can turn into a slice if im having a bad day tried everything and cant for the life of me hit a draw.

My thinking is that if i can hit a draw i can set up slightly to hit a draw which will help me elimate my fade/slice.

If so how do i go about hitting a draw or am i mistaken and it wont help ?

Aim your clubhead at the target, align your feet where you want the ball to start and simply swing. The farther right you align your feet and the farther left you aim the clubhead, the more the ball will hook.

Uh oh...... .......this isn't going to work out well for you.

haha!

Can't see how you can draw it if you have an over the top move. Your body would have to do some serious moving out of the way to get that club back inside the line.

News Flash: We need to immediately tell all tour players to re-learn to hit the draw. David will now explain to all how he hits a draw.

http://thesandtrap.com/t/61391/shaping-the-ball Are there any questions?

The setup I explained is called a trap draw. I'm sure you can find someone on the net that tells you to use a rake to play the draw. I've been a member for a whole hour so far and will not spout credentials, but the simple fact is at the highest level of the game that is how a draw is played. I might add that some players because of their swing plane will naturally draw the ball. This method is for golfers not in that category. Why don't you try it, I'm sure you will then agree.

Johnny Miller is in the hizzouse!

Gettin it from many sides tonite. Trapping the ball merely means squeezing the ball against the turf with the blade. Love Johny but I'm not certain he coined the call.

Welcome to the forum. But the ball starts where the clubface is pointing at impact and it curves relative to the club head's path.

So, clubface square to the target with a clubhead path that's in to out (what you are saying) would produce a ball that starts straight then and draws away from the target.

So many people make this mistake, so don't feel bad. But technology and high speed cameras have now proven the old explanations of how the ball curves were incorrect.

Draws that start to the right of the target (for righties) are actually struck with a clubface that's pointing to the right (of the target) at impact -- so the clubface is actually open relative to the target line -- but it's closed relative to the clubhead's path -- hence the draw curve.

Just trying to help! Don't bite my head off

The Nicklaus method of curving the ball. Simple.

I actually read Nicklaus' book off kindle recently and he got the ballflight laws correct. He may not have used the same language to say it that we use here, but he was right.

Thank you for the welcome, but I believe you are wrong. The ball takes off down the  path of the swing. Having the club open or closed  determines what spin it then has. Try a flop shot and you'll see it takes off along the swing path with left to right spin. The line the ball takes off on is created  not by the alignment of the clubface but by the swing path.  Thats why when players are lets say left with trees blocking a direct path to the pin we align the face at the pin and the feet to the right of what is blocking a direct route. The ball starts down the swing path (to the right of the target) and when it starts to get it shape back it spins to the left. Now obviously you have to have clubhead speed to accomplish this. If I was to hit a little chip shot then the closed clubface will direct the ball

Yea, I hear you, but it turns out that this is not right. I don't know the exact numbers because they're different based on the club's loft, but with a driver (I think) 90% of the ball's initial direction is determined by the clubface angle at impact. With a 9-iron, I think club face angle at impact only accounts for like 80% of it's initial direction (someone correct me here if I'm off).

Obviously you don't need to know the correct physics of golf in order to play it really, really well and win multiple majors. But it can help and save you shots just by knowing the right stuff. Like being directly behind a tree for example. You don't want to tell someone to aim their clubface right at that tree and then swing out to the right to hook it around it. Unless their swing pattern naturally allows the clubface to be more open at impact than it is at address (this is actually what happens to people when they aim the clubface square at address and then hit a draw that starts to the right), they're going to hit that tree!

There are all sorts of threads on here that explain this stuff in more detail, but it's pretty simple.

I know, it's so crazy what you are reading that I can't possibly be telling the truth or be right because you've heard the opposite your whole life. But science has proven that what I'm saying is correct. Read that link provided earlier in the thread. It's a good read. So many teachers and talking heads on TV and great players actually don't have this right, which is crazy to me, but hey, that's the reality.

Anyway, I realize what I'm saying is blasphemy to a lot of people. But knowing the correct information could very well save you a stroke here and there every now and then. This nugget of info alone could maybe get you from a 0.0 to a +0.1 or more, who knows. Maybe it saves you that one stroke where you normally would have drawn it too much.

Modifying your setup can certainly help and encourage a different pattern, but if you want to hit big draws, you have to change your swing. Since you are a 20-handicap, you are making (probably) the same mistakes everyone makes at that level -- weight not forward enough at impact, left wrist not flat enough at impact, and head movement.

Check out the idea of hip slide in the golf swing . Good place to start.

Except the ball is never squeezed against he turf. Ever. It might be a good visualization technique to help someone hit down on the ball, but the ball is simply never squeezed against the ground. So there's no such thing as a "trap" draw, which is why it's so funny every time Johnny says it. Didn't mean to give you a hard time, it's really Johnny I was ragging on.

More importantly, you're wrong about the ball flight laws.  Like others have said, don'r feel bad - what you're saying was the conventional wisdom for a long time, until physics (backed up by high speed cameras) proved otherwise.

I"m not advocating aiming  your club at a tree right in front of you and so on. If your  swing path is 6 oclock to 12 oclock  and you're i n the middle of the clock with your clubface aimed at the 11, it's an absolute impossibility the ball will not start at the 12.  Doesn'tt matter if your face is aimed at the 10. The swing path will determine where the ball starts out.  It's freaking physics. I've played this shot for over forty years with the old and new equipment. Really, try it.

Your'e right about the squeeze thing since if hit properly the ball is gone before the club touches the turf. What I should have written is the angle of attack is steeper on that shot and feels as though it's being trapped. About the ball flight thing,  it has to start down the swing path.