Driver Shaft Question

Not sure, i doubt Titleist would redesign the hosel

You can always try :p, but i tried both drivers, i own a 910D2, i don't see a major performance upgrade between the two drivers. I probably wont switch drivers for at least 4-5 more years, unless something huge in technology wise comes out. 

Check out the GolfWorks or the GolfSmith sites. Some of them sell adjustable hosel converters. Only question would be if putting an existing shaft in a converter would mess up the tip trim.

Before you install a shaft into a golf club, you often trim an inch or two off the tip before you insert it. If you look in a GolfWorks or GolfSmith catalog, or on a shaftmaker's web site, you will come across the tip trim instructions for different models of shafts.

Check out the Aldila site, for example. This first link shows the specs for the RIPd NV shafts. Down at the bottom is the trim instructions, and trim code.

http://www.aldila.com/products/ripd-nv/

You can also find the instructions behind the trim codes on the shaftmaker's master list:

http://www.aldila.com/custom-fitting/trimming/

A skilled clubfitter can vary the tip trim a little to either soften or stiffen the shaft flex. For most graphite shafts, the recommended method is to buy the correct flex, and trim mainly from the butt for length. (Some graphite models are designed for both driver and fairway woods, while others are designed  for drivers or FWs or hybrids.)

For steel shafts, many of non-flighted models come at factory length, basically all the same length to start. You trim from the tip to determine what the flex will be. Also, you trim more off the tip for a 7 iron than a 3 iron. Since shafts are thinnest at the tip, the more you cut from the tip overall, the stiffer the shafts will be throughout the set.  Then, you trim from the butt to determine total club length.

Note: different hosel designs take different lengths of tip, so this point is also critical. Unless you know what you're doing, it's easy to end up with a shaft a half-inch too short or long. It's not hard to learn, you just have to know the sequence.

For your original question, I said that a shaft cut for a non-adjustable hosel might not "trim out" the same as for an adjustable hosel. Or, it could work just fine. You'd have to talk to a clubfitter about this. You can't put tip back on once you've trimmed it off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by colin007 

no, im saying basically, would a clubfitter be able to take my prolaunch shaft and put the 913 hosel on it?  do they even do that?

 

 

also, did you just not feel that much difference between the 910 and the 913?

That Prolaunch Red shaft seems to run about $50.  So, if worse comes to worse, it won't cost you an arm and a leg to buy a new one if the clubmaker/repairer is unable to salvage the shaft out of your 909.  The bad news is that the adapter sleeve for the Titleist surefit system runs about $75.  Also, while not 100% sure, I think the fitter that works on my clubs said that there's different tips depending if you have a driver/FW or hybrid. So, make sure whoever works on your club orders the correct adapter. 

I tested my 9.5* 910D2 head and a 9.5* 913D2 head with my current shaft (Fujikura F3 60 stiff).  Both set to A1 (.75* more loft/face angle slightly open).  The numbers on the machine (don't know which one they use) came back pretty much identical (~101cs/~147bs/~13*launch/~3K backspin).  Because of this, I opted not to spend the money on a new driver. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by colin007 

That's a lot of backspin isn't it? Don't we want something closer to 2500?

Maybe or maybe not, backspin and launch angle are related. He said a 13* launch angle and 3000 backspin. If he only had 2500 backspin he might need to increase the launch angle to 15*, to get the same distance. The lower your launch angle the more spin you need to keep the ball in the air.