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Great Iron Set for 10 Handicap - Page 2

post #19 of 25
I keep hearing a lot of good on AMP Cobra. I know someone who owns a golf store and plays a lot switches clubs a lot too! Said he liked the Taylor Rocketbladez.
I asked him if he hit the Callaway irons yet he said no.
post #20 of 25

Ping is never the right answer. :) JK

post #21 of 25
Better arrows help bad Indians/ at least marketing tells us that.
post #22 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by txstroker View Post

Rather than recomend a specific club, my recomendation is determine if you want to progress from a Game Improvement iron to a Player's iron.  Then decide if you want to try a forged club or stick with cast.  Knowing no more than what I've read here, my thoughts are you should progress to a Player's iron and go with forged.  If you're ready to start shaping your shots, you'll apprreciate the forged irons.

 

Common misconception. If you understand how a golf swing works, you can hit a basic draw or fade with any iron, SGI included.

 

Also, forging is a manufacturing process, not a clubhead type. It just so happens that most forged irons of last twenty years are in the Player's category, because they cost more and are marketed to better players. Recently forged GI irons have appeared, such as the Nike VR.S Forged. (Got to hit these with NS Pro 890 stiff shafts - nice launch!)

 

As for Player's or GI, it depends on what works for you. A Player's iron is less forgiving on mishits, but allows a skilled player more precision in shotmaking. Player's irons allow you to keep the ball lower because they have a higher Vertical Center of Gravity.

 

But, shot height also is influenced by loft, clubhead design, shaft, player set-up, and type of ball played. So remember that clubhead is only one part of the equation.

post #23 of 25
When I work the ball I take my stance where I want the ball to start out at and face the club to where I want it to finish. I hit blade cast ironsTaylor Made
post #24 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankfurtDave View Post


Next I tried the MP-64, which I thought would be too much club. I soon understood the "buttery" feel that everyone talks about but also felt the feedback that I have always been missing. However, importantly always made solid contact with great dispersion in the shots. I certainly lost distance at the start but by the end was hitting 130 carrys rolling out to a reported 160 which was equal or longer than my burners and felt that there was easily enough forgiveness in them for me not to be scared even with my 16 handicap.


 

 

I am a little nervous about this.  I currently play Ping G25's having gone to them from component clubs that resembled Callways.  On a well struck 7 iron (my 160 club) I get VERY VERY little roll.  I would think for a club that carries 130, 30 yards of roll would be a fairly big problem.  The reason I say that is think about a 160 yard approach shot, if you have to roll it up to the green instead of being able to fly the green and get it to bite, you might find yourself in alot more bunkers, in addition to the fact that you might find yourself short alot as the grass next to the green is rough instead of the simulated fairway that was showing 30 yards of roll.

 

Again, just something to consider, I wouldn't want to lose 30 yards of carry on a 7 iron.

post #25 of 25
Clearwater I agree he might be a low ball hitter...most of them try and lift the ball or scoop it. Hit down taking ball first. I am hitting it farther with the same club's then I ever have. I am de-lofting... club head hands ahead of club and retainig it through the shot. I used to hit my 9 125 now easily 140
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