Jump to content
IGNORED

Hogan Apex 5 shafts on 1998 Apex clubs


Note: This thread is 4100 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Arrrrgh - wrong subject for this forum - please ignore the subject. Sorry...

Anyways, I practice with regular steel and stiff steel shafts. I get more distance with a stiff shaft.

I am about to try a x stiff shaft from 1998.

What would typically happen when hitting a stiffer shaft with a too low swing speed?

When hitting my regular graphite shafts, my shots get way too much height. A pro seeing my shots instantly came over to talk about new clubs, fitting, etc. Off-season makes creative...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Originally Posted by Hollister

What would typically happen when hitting a stiffer shaft with a too low swing speed?

When hitting my regular graphite shafts, my shots get way too much height.

In purely physical terms, not much difference I think, at least between single flex codes.

1. Maybe a little less delivered loft, but less difference than you'd see bending an iron 1* or 2*. Depending on your swing, you might not see any difference at all in terms of loft. Not a big issue in middle and short irons - but less margin for error at the longer end of the set.

2. Clubhead speed should not change - unless the stiffer shaft is also considerably heavier.

3. Shots, especially mishits, are going to feel harsher with the stiffer shaft.

4. The biggest difference in performance, I think, is almost psychological, where either the feel of the stiffer shaft, or even just the idea that you're playing a harder shaft, encourages you to make a harder swing - perhaps harder than is really optimal. Timing and co-ordination are liable to suffer, and I think this is where, occasionally, you hear people saying that a change of shaft yielded a few mph of clubhead speed. Where a shaft is much too stiff, there's a danger of getting caught in a vicious circle passing through points 3 and 4.

Then again, not everyone is profoundly affected by the feel of the shaft if they don't know its actual flex. I play either R or S happily - and to be honest, I don't really perceive much difference. I've never knowingly hit an X flex, although I've had a couple of woods where I've suspected the shaft of being way too stiff for me and they were always horrible to hit and I never felt like I could put a good swing on them.

Lastly, I don't know about the 1998 vintage, but in Hogan's vintage years - their Apex 5 shaft was an out and out beast. Lots of folk considered the 4 equivalent to DG X.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Lastly, I don't know about the 1998 vintage, but in Hogan's vintage years - their Apex 5 shaft was an out and out beast. Lots of folk considered the 4 equivalent to DG X.

The Apex 5's up until about the mid 80's was rebar stiff. Some of the Bounce Sole's I have are Apex 5 and I am forced I am not man enough to hit them. 1998 is more inline with today's stiffness.

Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by birlyshirly

...

3. Shots, especially mishits, are going to feel harsher with the stiffer shaft.

4. The biggest difference in performance, I think, is almost psychological, ...

...

Lastly, I don't know about the 1998 vintage, but in Hogan's vintage years - their Apex 5 shaft was an out and out beast. Lots of folk considered the 4 equivalent to DG X.

Thanks! I am practicing with Apex 3 shafts (Apex ftx and 2003) and an Apex 4 shaft (1988) - and always with the 6i. The Apex 3 2003 ball flight is way too high, compared to the other clubs. The Apex 4 with a 2* lower lofted 6i has the same or slightly more distance than the Apex 3 ftx 6i. That was the reason for this post...

Re 3. Oh yes, repeated a shank prone move and stopped trying after the fifth to protect my hands from stupid ideas.

Re 4. Maybe. I was amazed that I was able to hit the 1988 Apex Redline clubs at all. OK, hitting the 1i is a different matter... I usually play GI irons with regular graphite shafts (2001 Apex Edge).

I am happy then that I survived the blade Apex 4 challenge - I find the shaft playable. Trajectory with range balls seems OK. Dispersion is way less and distance is farther compared to my GI/graphite set. Hmm, I might go try my 1988 on the golf course then. I bought the 1-9 set for $60 to have a few hard to hit practice clubs.

BTW, the ftx and the 1988 weigh nearly the same - OK, the 1988 is 10 grams / 0.4 ounces heavier.

Originally Posted by colin007

Playing a too stiff shaft will make the ball tend to go low and right.


Huh, trajectory is OK. I hit occasional 15 yard pushes before, now the tend to be 10 yards max.

I think I try to get a fitting session (for free) - Spring sales season comes to a range/shop near me very, very soon. And I might try to pick up a 1999 Apex club with #5 x stiff shafts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 4100 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • Day 119: 4/24/24 Chipping and pitching followed by putting through 50 mm gates.
    • @boogielicious and I are definitely in for the Stay & Play and will need the extra night's stay on Friday. I don't know what the plans are for our group on Friday but even if we don't make it for dinner with the rest of the Friday arrivals, I'll be more than happy to meet up somewhere for a beer or something.
    • Taking your dispersion and distance in consideration I analyzed the 4 posible ways to play the hole, or at least the ones that were listed here. I took the brown grass on the left as fescue were you need to punch out sideways to the fairway and rigth of the car path to be fescue too.  Driver "going for the green"  You have to aim more rigth, to the bunker in order to center your shotzone in between the fescue.  Wood of 240 over the bunkers I already like this one more for you. More room to land between the fescue. Balls in the fescue 11% down from 30% with driver. Improve of score from 4.55 to 4.40. 4 iron 210 yards besides the bunkers.    Also a wide area and your shot zone is better than previous ones. This makes almost the fescue dissapear. You really need to hit a bad one (sometimes shit happens). Because of that and only having 120 yards in this is the best choice so far. Down to 4.32 from 4.40. Finally the 6 Iron 180 yards to avoid all trouble.    Wide area an narrow dispersion for almost been in the fairway all the time. Similar than the previous one but 25 yards farther for the hole to avoid been in the bunkers. Average remains the same, 4.33 to 4.32.  Conclusion is easy. Either your 4iron or 6 iron of the tee are equaly good for you. Glad that you made par!
    • Wish I could have spent 5 minutes in the middle of the morning round to hit some balls at the range. Just did much more of right side through with keeping the shoulders feeling level (not dipping), and I was flushing them. Lol. Maybe too much focus on hands stuff while playing.
    • Last year I made an excel that can easily measure with my own SG data the average score for each club of the tee. Even the difference in score if you aim more left or right with the same club. I like it because it can be tweaked to account for different kind of rough, trees, hazards, greens etc.     As an example, On Par 5's that you have fescue on both sides were you can count them as a water hazard (penalty or punch out sideways), unless 3 wood or hybrid lands in a wider area between the fescue you should always hit driver. With a shorter club you are going to hit a couple less balls in the fescue than driver but you are not going to offset the fact that 100% of the shots are going to be played 30 or more yards longer. Here is a 560 par 5. Driver distance 280 yards total, 3 wood 250, hybrid 220. Distance between fescue is 30 yards (pretty tight). Dispersion for Driver is 62 yards. 56 for 3 wood and 49 for hybrid. Aiming of course at the middle of the fairway (20 yards wide) with driver you are going to hit 34% of balls on the fescue (17% left/17% right). 48% to the fairway and the rest to the rough.  The average score is going to be around 5.14. Looking at the result with 3 wood and hybrid you are going to hit less balls in the fescue but because of having longer 2nd shots you are going to score slightly worst. 5.17 and 5.25 respectively.    Things changes when the fescue is taller and you are probably going to loose the ball so changing the penalty of hitting there playing a 3 wood or hybrid gives a better score in the hole.  Off course 30 yards between penalty hazards is way to small. You normally have 60 or more, in that cases the score is going to be more close to 5 and been the Driver the weapon of choice.  The point is to see that no matter how tight the hole is, depending on the hole sometimes Driver is the play and sometimes 6 irons is the play. Is easy to see that on easy holes, but holes like this:  you need to crunch the numbers to find the best strategy.     
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...