Shorten club = add lead tape?

Not sure why you're shortening your wedges 1/4". Will this bring them into shaft-length match with the 962 irons?

 

Make sure your wedges are uniform in their shaft length differences. Try for either 1/4" or 1/2" in between. See this link on wedge-fitting: http://www.ralphmaltby.com/17

 

As for shortening the clubs, trim from the butt end. Tip trimming would increase the stiffness of the shaft.

 

For every 1/2" you trim off the butt end of the shaft, you decrease the swingweight by three factors (for example, goes from D4 to D1). To recapture the swing weight, you would need to put lead tape on the back of the clubhead. You also can pull out the shaft, tip weight it, and reinstall it. But for 1/4" (about 1.5 swingweights), tape makes more sense. You can tell how much lead tape you need by putting the trimmed and regripped wedge on a swingweight machine, and draping a segment of tape (with the backing still on it) over the head to see how the swingweight will change.

 

Tip weighting would make more sense if you were trimming a wood shaft from 46" to 44.5", or replacing shaft A with shaft B at a different shaft length.

 

Lie change: This won't affect swingweight.

1/2" increments: Good call. 1/2" + 4° loft change = about 10 yds.* difference in distance on full shots. This will give you a consistent yardstick for your wedge package.

 

Both the S300 and S200 shafts on the wedges are softer than the X100 shafts. But, common dynamics for all three shaft models are high bend point (low launch) and firm tip, and uncut weight of 130 grams.

 

Your softer wedge shafts would deliver similar benefits as the TT Spinner and Cleveland TRAction shafts: designed for low launch, but softer tip flex. If you'll use your wedges primarily for partial shots, the S200 and S300 shafts will help you out. (See Spinner-Flex shaft specs for details).

 

Historic note: Nicklaus supposedly had his 1970s-era wedges tipped for 8 iron - meaning he had super softstep to take out a little stiffners for up-close shots.

 

* 60° lob wedge may have a bit less yardage on full shots, since full swing may simply send ball higher rather than much farther.

I was thinking of shortening my Nike str8 fit driver to a 44.5. Should I ask the club maker to take it from tip? I just wanted to cut brom butt and re grip. Not even sure what the vodoo shaft is. I figured 46 like most drivers now. I grip down so far now I figured just chop to get better control. Is this not a good idea? Will it mess up the swing characteristics of the Club? Thanks

Trim from the butt unless you want to stiffen the shaft. And, some OEMs recommend you sent it back to factory for tip trim.

 

Nike Str8 Fit Tour is no longer a production model, so I'm not sure what the swingweight and stock shaft length is. (Nike doesn't archive it's prior-cycle equipment specs).

 

Basically, if it measures 46" and you trim off 1.5", this will decrease swingweight nine points. (See Post #2 this thread).

 

So, if you're swinging a D5 driver right now, the trim would reduce it to C6. To reset swingweight to D5, you would need to either put lead tape on the sole or head back, or have someone pull the shaft, tipweight it to get D5, and reinstall it.

 

Depends in part on how long you'll keep the driver, and how much you like the "tape" look.

WUTIGER,

 

I have actually never hit the driver. I bought it on the cheap to start fresh with a driver. Last year if I useed a driver 10 times it would have been a lot. I am just not comfortable with the driver. I am especially uncomfortable with the 46 inch length of some of the drivers on the market. I will be using a reg flex for the 1st time since all my previous drivers were stiff. My swing is for in toon with a reg flex according to the monitors at Golfsmith. 

 

I guess what I am asking is would I even know the difference in swingweight if I never hit the driver or had a real good feel for a previous one?

 

I am also going to have the hybrid trimmed a bit, Nike seems to make a rather long hybrid. I may consider getting rid of the 4 wood or trading it in because that was in a stiff flex also. Thanks

If you don't have a sense of where the clubhead is on your backswing, the driver is probably too light. The swingweight is how heavy the club feels during the swing.

 

Some people have similar problems with the 45 gram superlight graphite shafts: it's harder to "drop in the slot" consistently.

 

Also, it depends on how sensitive a golfer is to weight changes. I can't tell the difference between a D5 and a D3, but I can tell a D5 from a D0.

 

Before you get a reshaft, swing the club as is to see how you like the swingweight. Someone who is installing a new shaft can re-set the swingweight as you want it, even if you get the length trimmed shorter than standard. (You dislike 46" drivers).

I want to reshaft my driver but go shorter to increase accuracy. Everything ive heard or read suggests shorter is better, so i thought id give it a try. I currently game a 46.5" wilson dxi 10.5, with an S flex pro launch red and midsize golf pride new decade grip.

I'm getting the bimatrix tour prototype shaft and I want to play it at 44.5" but an concerned about the sw change.

Can I maintain swing weight (or lessen impact on feel) by adding 10g tip weight and switching to the standard GP grip which is about 10g lighter?

I want to avoid the tape solution if possible

The best way to check this out is to use a swingweight machine with a trays for measuring balance affect of components.

 

You would "preassemble" your driver with the tip weight in the head-end tray, and the grip in the butt-end tray. Yes, a lighter grip would help you gain swingweight points.

 

There's a proportional equation which you can use to determine swingweight adjustments, but it's a bit difficult to use if you don't repair clubs regularly. You could get the same results in about the same amount of time if you use the swingweight machine.