Jump to content
IGNORED

How do you control your draws and fades?


Note: This thread is 4036 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Just curious how other people do it, because I get the feeling it can be sort of unique to different players.  Personally, I line up either right or left of the target with the club face pointing in the direction of where I want the ball to start.  After that, it's all about my shoulder turn.  If i'm drawing the ball, i make a full 90* turn to get my left shoulder pointed at the ball.  If i'm cutting it, I make something less than a 90* turn, can't say how far because it's all by feel.  That's it, not other thoughts, and it's been working great for me.

Anyone do anything different?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Like this. http://thesandtrap.com/t/61391/shaping-the-ball

In David's bag....

Driver: Titleist 910 D-3;  9.5* Diamana Kai'li
3-Wood: Titleist 910F;  15* Diamana Kai'li
Hybrids: Titleist 910H 19* and 21* Diamana Kai'li
Irons: Titleist 695cb 5-Pw

Wedges: Scratch 51-11 TNC grind, Vokey SM-5's;  56-14 F grind and 60-11 K grind
Putter: Scotty Cameron Kombi S
Ball: ProV1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

One way I found that's interesting is where I look at address. I find that fixating my eyes a few inches before or after the ball and keeping a steady head will make me turn either more or less before I feel "loaded", and keeping the same tempo will result in either a high fade or low draw without changing ball position. This basically makes the shoulders change their angle so you don't cause tension from your head's position, essentially squaring up your shoulders with your eye line. This way, you hit more in to out with a shorter backswing looking on the target side, but out to in with a longer backswing looking behind the ball. The angle of the face and timing your release is a little different than normal, but you're on your own to figure out that part. When I found this to work for me, it helped me hit straighter and more solid rather than facilitate working the ball. It works really nicely on everything from putting to a power drive, since there isn't a tendency to wander off plane.

(Eric's thread refers to this method as "eyelines", I discovered it as more of a checkpoint to ensure my plane was correct when looking directly at the ball.)

I find the method of opening and closing the stance still to be tricky with regards to ball position for me, though I can control the starting line I don't have great control over the amount of curve. I hate the grip method, I prefer to play every shot with a strong grip because I feel the grip changes too many things and I don't want the habit of changing grips as a correction.

In practice I actually don't like to hit draws and fades on shots I really aim. When I fixate on the ball, keep a steady head, hold off the club a bit and finish my swing, I'm hitting remarkably high and straight irons. I never really like to hit a little draw or fade intentionally. Better to save the intentional curve for an emergency, IMO. I do tend towards a bit of fade on shots off a tee, because hitting up is the best way for me to make solid contact.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I agree with the comment that changing your grip is not a viable method. I feel like this changes too much in your mechanics. If you are talking about controlling slight draws and fades...I don't do too much different. I generally use a shorter backswing and faster body rotation to hit a little fade. I will consciously hold off the release a little to prevent the pull. To hit little draws (natural shot shape for me) I make a bigger shoulder turn with my hands slightly deeper and make a slower body rotation through the ball. Full release on draws. To really hook or slice one...I will manipulate the club face open or closed and make more exaggerated inside out or outside in swings.

Titleist 910D3 - 9.5°- Ahina Stiff
Taylormade Burner 2.0 3Wood - Proforce V2 Stiff

Taylormade Burner 5W - Proforce V2 Stiff
910D 21° 3h - Ahina Stiff

Titleist 712 AP2 - KBS Tour
Titleist Vokey - 52* & 56*

Odyssey White Hot #1 XG

X's or B330's

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Lol... I don't! (Control fades and draws, I mean). I can hit them, just can't control them yet. (I'm reminding myself of an old Seinfeld episode ... "Oh, you can take a reservation, annnnnnnnybody can take a reservation, you just don't know how to hold a reservation.")
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I shape mine by alignment, usually. I'll open my stance the appropriate amount for the kind of cut I want to hit, or close them if I'm trying to hit a big draw. My stock shot, though, is a push-draw, so I usually don't change too much for that.

Hunter Bishop

"i was an aspirant once of becoming a flamenco guitarist, but i had an accident with my fingers"

My Bag

Titleist TSI3 | TaylorMade Sim 2 Max 3 Wood | 5 Wood | Edel 3-PW | 52° | 60° | Blade Putter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I personally like to draw away or fade away from my target If I'm striking then I m usually drawing (or hooking it's all semantics) The longer the shaft the more draw I tend to make I use employ a push draw with my irons which goes relatively straight Fading when hitting the ball
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I personally like to draw away or fade away from my target If I'm striking then I m usually drawing (or hooking it's all semantics) The longer the shaft the more draw I tend to make I use employ a push draw with my irons which goes relatively straight Fading when hitting the ball

Why in the world would you intentionally work the ball away from your target? :-\

In David's bag....

Driver: Titleist 910 D-3;  9.5* Diamana Kai'li
3-Wood: Titleist 910F;  15* Diamana Kai'li
Hybrids: Titleist 910H 19* and 21* Diamana Kai'li
Irons: Titleist 695cb 5-Pw

Wedges: Scratch 51-11 TNC grind, Vokey SM-5's;  56-14 F grind and 60-11 K grind
Putter: Scotty Cameron Kombi S
Ball: ProV1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by David in FL

Why in the world would you intentionally work the ball away from your target?

Said David, echoing what EVERY other person here was thinking too. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

That's why I say Personally Your style might be different I find it mechanically easier on my body to match my perception

That still doesn't help us understand. Why wouldn't you want to draw or fade your ball TOWARD your target? To me, that logic is the same as turning around and hitting the ball backwards. I'm betting (hoping) its just a miscommunication though. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Why does some players play golf left handed? I'm entitled to play golf the way I want I don't to answer to you If it doesn't make sense to you then stick with your own pattern of playing I'm just responding to the OP question on my way
Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Administrator
Originally Posted by Truegolf

Why does some players play golf left handed?

I'm entitled to play golf the way I want

I don't to answer to you

If it doesn't make sense to you then stick with your own pattern of playing

I'm just responding to the OP question on my way

The point they're making is that you're not a 2 handicap if you curve every ball AWAY from your target. That makes no sense.

You don't need to have - or deserve to have - the attitude you're displaying. C'mon. They're asking legit questions.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Moderator

I am not good enough to really do it regularly.  But for "get out of trouble shots" I just open or close the face and keep my same swing.  I find that it is easier with my swing to intentionally draw the ball than to try to create a sharp fade.  I do practice these types of shots, which helps.

Scott

Titleist, Edel, Scotty Cameron Putter, Snell - AimPoint - Evolvr - MirrorVision

My Swing Thread

boogielicious - Adjective describing the perfect surf wave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

For me, Im a natural drawer, so its never been all that difficult for me.  I used to fight a push, so once I learned how to release the club properly, I developed a draw.  Now, my only real issue is drawing too much and hitting a hook, something Im working on getting better at controlling.

What I feel (and obviously feel is a subjective thing) is that I keep my back to the target for a split second and do a slight lateral shift towards the target at the start of my downswing.  I feel that allows me to hit more from the inside.  I find that Id I dont keep my back to the target for that split second, I tend to pull the ball (which would lead me to believe that Im coming from the outside with a face that is closed).

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 4036 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Popular Now

  • Posts

    • I agree with @klineka & @DaveP043 above.  When a new member first joins the club they cold be told that they are not eligible for tournaments until they have an established HCP.  As you said, it only takes a few rounds.  If they do not to post HCP that was their choice and choices have consequences.  If playing in the tournament is important to them then they should step up and establish an HCP.  Maybe they miss the 1st tournament, is that a real big deal?  And if it is a "Big Deal" to them then they had the opportunity to establish the HCP. As for not knowing how to report for HCP I assume your club has a pro and they should be able to assist in getting the scores reported and I suspect out of state courses may also have staff that can assist if asked.
    • Wordle 1,013 2/6 🟨⬜⬜🟨🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Thought I was gonna be a big shot today...  🙂    Nice Job!
    • Cool here's my tweak, "If a player’s ball lies in the general area and there is interference from exposed tree roots or exposed rocks that are in the fairway or 1 club length from the fairway the tree roots and exposed rocks are treated as ground under repair. The player may take free relief under Rule 16.1b.[But relief is not allowed if the tree roots only interfere with the player’s stance.]
    • I would never do the extended warranty on the $50 slow cooker.  I also routinely reject the extended service plans on those toys we buy for the grand-kids.  I do consider them on higher cost items and will be more likely to get one if the product has a lot of "Electronic Tech" that is often the problem longer-term.  I also consider my intended length of ownership & usage.  If my thought is it would get replaced in 2-3 years then why bother but if I hope to use it for 10 years then more likely to get the extension. I did buy out a lease about a year ago.  Just prior to the lease end date the tablet locked up and would not function.  I got it repaired under the initial warranty and would not have bought it out if they had not been able to fix it since IMO once electronic issues start in a car they can be hard to track down & fix.  They did fix it but when I bought out the lease I paid up for the extended warranty the would cover electronic failures because my intent is to keep that car for another 8-10 years and I just do not trust the electronics to last.  Last week the touch screen went black and was unresponsive.  It reset on the 2nd time I restarted the car but that is exactly how the last malfunction started.  I fully expect to have a claim on that on repair under the extended warranty.  I do not recall the exact cost to fix last time since I did not pay it but I think it was @ $700-$800 and I suspect that will be higher next time.
    • Have you looked at Model Local Rule F-9 Relief from Tree Roots in or Close to Fairway?  You could extend this to cover exposed rocks.  The rule is recommended to be used only for areas relatively near the fairway, a player who hits a shot 20 yards in the woods doesn't really deserve relief.   Players can always take Unplayable Ball relief, they're not required to play it from a rock or a root.  Of course, they hate to take the penalty stroke too.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...