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Golf Ball Compression Chart

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Here is an interesting compression chart for various golf ball manufacturers.

 

 

 

GBS_CompressionHardness_Test_050112_v9.12.pdf 104k .pdf file
post #2 of 8

This might explain why I have not been hitting as long lately.  I normally play the Bridgestone B330-RX.  I recently bought a dozen of the Nike 20 XI-X's on sale.  The Nike's are a good ball, but when I have crushed some drives, I get up to my ball and it's only in the 230 range.  Usually my crushed drives go between 240-250 range, but that is with the Bridgestone.  I assume there is a correlation between compression and distance? If so, that chart explains it all.  The Nike's have a lot less compression than my Bridgestone's.

post #3 of 8
My theory is that he newer balls are meant for the newer clubs. A harder ball as was popular 10 years ago is not meant to be hit with today's 'springy' club faces. Also, if you use a 10 year old driver with the newer lower compression balls, you will lose distance. the harder balls needed to be smashed with vigor to compress them and get the maximum distance. Today's balls are easier to compress and thus the higher COI of the newer drivers gets the ball out there with less spin as they are designed for.

10-15 years ago you didn't see adverts for "ball fitting", you played a 'rock' or a Titleist depending on your ability. Now you go to Dicks and they can fine tune the ball for your driver and your swing.
post #4 of 8

So does the higher number mean more spin or more distance?

post #5 of 8
The numbers have nothing to do with spin or distance. They are a measure of "hardness". Durometer ratings maybe? 20 years ago you got 90 or 100. The way they formulate the balls these days with 5 layers of "elastomer super ply hydrate and unobtanium" stuff, it's the COMBINATION of hardness in the layers that make a difference. Soft cores with hard mantles, or vice versa- with each manufacturer saying theirs is what you need. Players will choose a ball based on putting- I prefer a ball that feels like butter when putting. A 2 piece 'Pinnacle' type ball will jump off the putter face like a rocket and is harder to judge.
post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCfanatic35 View Post

This might explain why I have not been hitting as long lately.  I normally play the Bridgestone B330-RX.  I recently bought a dozen of the Nike 20 XI-X's on sale.  The Nike's are a good ball, but when I have crushed some drives, I get up to my ball and it's only in the 230 range.  Usually my crushed drives go between 240-250 range, but that is with the Bridgestone.  I assume there is a correlation between compression and distance? If so, that chart explains it all.  The Nike's have a lot less compression than my Bridgestone's.

 

This confirms my review where I felt that it was really hard to compress the 20XI-X versus the Pro V1x. I felt that it would be good for someone that had a high swing speed. Interesting. 

post #7 of 8

Ok, help an uniformed duffer understand this.....first, what do each of the headings mean?  Majextic, API, etc????

 

I've tried many different balls and found that for distance and control the Bridgestone E6 works best.  I was shocked when hitting a Pro V how hard it felt but I'm guessing with my swing speed of 90-95 I can't compress it.  In looking at the chart, the E6 looks like a pretty low compression ball.  Am I reading that right?

 

I have also noticed that greenside when I drop other balls to test the Pro V stops on a dime but the E6 runs out.  I'm guessing that is because the E6 has a harder cover than the Pro V.

 

So correct me if I'm wrong.  For my swing speed I need to refer to this chart and find a compression similar to the E6 but then look for a cover number similar to Pro V?   That could in theory be a ball that gets me the best of both worlds for my swing?

post #8 of 8

yeah i didnt really understand what everything mean't but im sure when i figure out what the abbreviations mean it would make complete sense

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