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What grips are you using on adjustable clubs?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

 Last season this was not a problem but I now own an adjustable driver and 3 wood. I use Tacki Mac Itomic on all my irons and will probably just put them on the new ones with the logo down. I just wanted to see that other options others are using?

post #2 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by amoszz View Post

 Last season this was not a problem but I now own an adjustable driver and 3 wood. I use Tacki Mac Itomic on all my irons and will probably just put them on the new ones with the logo down. I just wanted to see that other options others are using?


 



Check out the Lamkin REL 360 Grip. Not a fan of Lamkins myself but this one is on my adjustable driver and it seems fine.

http://www.lamkingrips.com/?r=REL-3GEN-360-Standard


Created for adjustable clubs the R.E.L. 3GEN 360° is an orientation-free grip. This grip has no logos or alignment markings, so that your set-up (whether open, neutral or closed) is never compromised by the on-club position of the grip. Symmetrically continuous when viewed from any side, the R.E.L. 360° features a distinctly minimal surface pattern designed to maximize surface area contact with a golfer's hands, providing extra comfort and reducing the amount of grip pressure needed to maintain control throughout the swing. In addition, the R.E.L. 3GEN 360°'s patent-pending 3GEN synthetic rubber gives golfers an exceptionally soft and tacky feel for the ultimate in comfort and performance. The R.E.L. 360° is available in both standard size and midsize.
post #3 of 15
I like the classic Tour Velvet 360. Feels great regardless of how you turn the shaft.
post #4 of 15

Right now I just have the grip that came on the driver (Nike Covert)... it doesn't have a logo on it so it is the same no matter how it is aligned. Previously I used a couple of different adjustable drivers from Callaway, and with the way their hosels work, the grip is always in the same position no matter how the club is set up. On my RBZ I used a PURE grip... once I had the club set up the way I wanted I just blew it so it was in the correct position, later, after making other adjustments, it was easy to go back and realign the grip with the air compressor.

post #5 of 15

Iomic sticky 2.3 -- have a smallish logo and constant pattern. Logo seems to stay down, or down enough, so that I never see it with my adjustments. If 12:00 is top, my logo never gets past 9:00 or 3:00. For irons and other fixed clubs, I like logo down.

post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 

I just received a couple of  Lamkin R.E.L. 360 ACE 3GEN  grips. I will give a review after a couple of rounds.

post #7 of 15

The grip's alignment only matters on putters or if you're one of those ribbed grip people. Would I throw out a perfectly good grip because it has the logo up? Hell no! The grip is purely superficial and your hands cover it anyway. Grips don't show in the bag either. 

 

If you get distracted by logos and branding, I guess you can't play with golf clubs, gloves, a ball, or partners, not to mention a bag or clothing, so you must go on the course naked which is a far bigger distraction. Everyone's a walking billboard, and they all know exactly what you're playing anyway so why hide it? Plus if you ever flip the blade over on logo down grips to hit a lefty shot, there it is staring you in the face. When I open and close the face I use the face, not the grip, to indicate my line of play. When many people seem to be looking at the grip I focus on my feet and ball for alignment.

 

I use golf pride NDMC on my driver, the logo and alignment stuff is 90˚ to the clubface because I didn't decide on my loft setting until after installation. Presumably when I regrip it, I will align the grip with the current setting. Oddly enough, I don't seem to hit it 90 or even 45 degrees to the right. ;-) Maybe if the logo ever bothers me, I'll take some blue sharpie and fill in the letters so it blends perfectly, or cut off an inch or so to get rid of the white ring. But it won't because I don't let it get into my head. I think a couple of my shaft labels on my irons are crooked and wrinkled too. And some of my golf balls have scuffs and aren't balanced and I didn't draw a line on them or get custom numbers. Surely if I do those things, I'll begin to break 70. Pure superstition. Just because a few tour pros do it, everyone assumes they have a good reason.

 

Also, you're also not supposed to constantly adjust adjustable clubs. There's only one setting that works best; find it and leave it alone. The only reason they exist is to make the clubmakers more money by only needing to produce a couple of models to fit everybody and to provide hacks with some sense of efficacy in their hopeless game. Present company excluded, of course. 

 

Of course, if you install with compressed air, you can rotate it as much as you want at any time without wasting money. 

post #8 of 15
post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 

"Also, you're also not supposed to constantly adjust adjustable clubs. There's only one setting that works best; find it and leave it alone."   

 

 

 I have a 3 wood that can go from 14 to 16 degrees and I see value in being able to set it up for the conditions of the day. The course I play had a very long par 3 that ranges from 230 to 250 yards depending on the tee box and flag placement. I think the 360 ACE Lamkin will work just fine. I pull off all stock grips because I don't use rubber grips, they get slick to quickly and prefer modern materials.

post #10 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by amoszz View Post
 

"Also, you're also not supposed to constantly adjust adjustable clubs. There's only one setting that works best; find it and leave it alone."   

 

 

 I have a 3 wood that can go from 14 to 16 degrees and I see value in being able to set it up for the conditions of the day. The course I play had a very long par 3 that ranges from 230 to 250 yards depending on the tee box and flag placement. I think the 360 ACE Lamkin will work just fine. I pull off all stock grips because I don't use rubber grips, they get slick to quickly and prefer modern materials.

I assume you ask the course staff where the pin was cut that day and where the tees are and set it up prior to the round? It's against the rules of golf to adjust clubs during the round, even if you haven't hit them prior to that hole. I do think it's nice to be able to fit long clubs to your gaps through adjustment, but fairways are pretty easy to knock down in the wind. Personally I wouldn't really go flag hunting on a par 3 of that length anyway. Not to be "that guy" or anything.

 

And yes, Pure grips work nicely. I prefer cords but the pures are cost effective in the short term and seem to wear fairly well for a standard rubber grip. Plus the whole air compressor thing.

post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuciusWooding View Post

 

 

And yes, Pure grips work nicely. I prefer cords but the pures are cost effective in the short term and seem to wear fairly well for a standard rubber grip. Plus the whole air compressor thing.

 

Have you seen the DTX line from Pure?  Their cord version

http://www.puregrips.com/grips/view/dtx

post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvmac View Post
 

 

Have you seen the DTX line from Pure?  Their cord version

http://www.puregrips.com/grips/view/dtx

I have, and I actually have a blue one on my new 15˚ super LS hybrid. I'm not certain if it's the grip or my setup or if I need to chop off half an inch from the club or get a smaller weight, but so far that club has cost me some unnecessary strokes the last 2 rounds. Great head but I can only seem to find the heel end of it so far. 

 

I'd say the texture is sufficient to prevent slippage and I like that it comes in midsize, however I like the pure pro midsize that I have on my irons. If anything the taper of the DTX is slightly different than GPNDMC (GP has a slightly wider butt end by my reckoning), and I don't like the texture for a reason I can't quite put my finger on, perhaps lack of firmness and a tendency for the raised bits between the pebbled areas to squish around in my grip a bit. I do think that people might like them better if they wear a glove or play in warmer weather.

post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by amoszz View Post

"Also, you're also not supposed to constantly adjust adjustable clubs. There's only one setting that works best; find it and leave it alone."   

Agree.
post #14 of 15
Thread Starter 

I know you can't adjust a club during a round, had a guy in my league do it during a round last year and was penalised. I see the tee box right out my backdoor and we have pin position numbers posted on the cart.   

post #15 of 15

When I bought my clubs that were adjustable (driver and hybrid), I went through some testing with my fitter and then once I had the correct setting I simply put on a NDMC positioned based on the setting. I don't adjust my clubs because the settings I was fit for work.

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