Fujikura Fuel Shaft in Cobra AMP Cell Driver

I'm looking at buying a Cobra Amp Cell driver. My question is this: does anyone know if the Fujikura Fuel shaft in this driver is the same as the ones sold on ebay for over $200.00 or is it of lesser quality built to Cobra's specs? I know that the Fuel shaft sold alone is normally black with orange striping, while the Cobra shaft is mostly a white color with graphics.

Lew

Search on "stock shafts" and you'll get a complete discussion on this subject.

A lot of companies these days are now including "real" shafts in their clubs rather than putting in a "made for" shaft. However, I don't know if Cobra is one of them, so the Fuel shaft they use may be one that is made specifically for them

Thanks for the info guys.

Lew

Funny enough most of OEMs down spec the shafts to counter punters that by and large over shaft (needs to be X stiff, low spin etc- its a variation on the 20 capper that throws up a little in his mouth at the mere sight of a GI shovel and needs to work the ball, and is only a 20 capper because he can't putt), thinking they need to play everything they see on the Tour.

From what I have heard the Fuel shafts in the cobra drivers are in fact Made For versions

For Cobra it is a made for shaft. Not saying it isn't good. If you go to the 2013 Custom guide for Cobra. They offer both the Cobra Amp Fujikura Fuel, and the Fujikura Fuel as a custom option. So they offer both, I doubt they would do that if they were the same shaft.

Guys, thanks very much for the input.

Lew

I believe it's a made for. I hit an Amp Cell set at 8.5 with the stock Fuel in X and still had too much spin and too high of a launch angle.

I don't think that the fact that it is made for should destroy its merit completely though... I mean it is still probably a high quality shaft... just not quite what a real deal Fuji Fuel brings to the table

I agree. I had a Cleveland DST Tour driver once with a made for Whiteboard and it was one of if not the best shaft i've had, and i've had a couple of both (made for and aftermarket). It probably doesn't spec THAT far off, I probably wouldn't fit into a Fuel at all though. Especially with that head.

Funny enough most OEMs water the shafts down to cater for the ego of the vast majority of punters that tend to over shaft. Ergo, "it has to be S or X"  when the Noob has a 89mph SS that would never be able to a real S off the ground. In the end the OEM increase the launch angle/ higher kick point etc to ensure Senhor Noob has pleasant experience whilst massaging his ego with his S or X. They massage the characteristics of the shaft so that it is more playable for the average golfer. If you are an average golfer, it will probably be fine for you.

If anything its an even more widespread malady that the online specialist 22 capper that needs a forged blade to work the ball into tight pins; throws up a little in his mouth at the mere sight of a GI "shovel", who is an excellent ballstriker, that is only a high capper because he can't putt!

A $200 shaft possibly, a $1,000 shaft not likely. Remember, a club manufacturer will buy 20,000 of the shafts all at once. You get a volume discount for purchases like that.

And, the per-shaft shipping costs are a lot less for a big block like that, rather than 20,000 shipments of individual shafts.

I doubt the big name clubmakers would risk their reputation by knowingly procuring marginal shafts for their prestige lines.

One ugly little secret in golfdom is that, on occasion, a manufacturing run of first-line shafts will contain a lot of flawed tubes. This has to do with manufacturing glitches, not design problems. Ask your local clubsmith if he or she has ever encountered this.

Great point, name brand has a huge markup as well, APPLE!!!. Oops did I say that

I know Mitsubishi will put a different annotation on theirs. Their normal shafts are usually x5ct or something like that, while their for manufacturer shafts are like "g 35 t." So if you see a Diamana shaft with the x5ct on it, it is the authentic one even if it has Titleist name on it. Basically the difference is the tip section, meaning for manufacturers the tip is usually not as stiff.

I tried out both the SLDR and the 913. Both clubs are fantastic and the shaft combinations work well. Though I swing fast and have a very aggressive swing. The Fujikura and Diamana work well for me. I had success with the 'ahina 70 in the 910D2, but it just a bit too spinny for me.

I do think some shafts just stand the test of time.

Original Whiteboard

Fujikura Speeder 757 (from the late 90's), the new one looks very good

Tour Spec Fujikura Speeder

Tour AD DI and BB are pretty popular on tour

Proforce V2 is still used on tour

I would say for fast swingers of the golf ball, and want to upgrade of an OEM Shaft, go UST for budget shafts. They are usually cheaper. They can create some low spin low launch shafts.

VTS shafts from UTS are a $125 dollars. If you like the clubhead you have, not a bad option

V2 is $60.00 dollars

Aldila has some good shafts for moderate swing golfers. Bit higher torque, a bit softer.

For on a budget I would go with UST or Aldila. ($60-$200)

For high end, Fujikura, Mitsubishi, or Graphite Design ($200+)

Of course it is very hard to demo this type of thing. You can get a lot of reviews online.