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What club do you use for 50-80 yards in? - Page 3

post #37 of 62

Depending on the lie and pin position, I most often will chunk a lob wedge or thin a 9 iron :)

post #38 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcp View Post
 

Depending on the lie and pin position, I most often will chunk a lob wedge or thin a 9 iron :)

 

Wouldnt you rather chunk the 9 and thin the wedge...;-)

post #39 of 62

Usually my 56 or 60 under normal conditions for that range....Those just full and partial swings though.

 

But I want to learn more chip-like shots, too, this season.  I'm having a lot of fun learning these and am finding them REALLY useful.  So that will add my 50, PW, and 7-9 hopefully as other options to deal with more conditions and situations.

post #40 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by rehmwa View Post
 

Usually my 56 or 60 under normal conditions for that range....Those just full and partial swings though.

 

But I want to learn more chip-like shots, too, this season.  I'm having a lot of fun learning these and am finding them REALLY useful.  So that will add my 50, PW, and 7-9 hopefully as other options to deal with more conditions and situations.

 

Are you planning on practicing "Rule of 12?"

 

 

post #41 of 62

A lot of it depends on the green I'm hitting to, but assuming it's just a flat, straight-forward shot, I like to use a 53* wedge.  

Oddly enough, I have a habit of shanking my SW when I try to use it from that distance.  Don't have a problem with a full SW, and don't have a problem on short pitches.  It's really just about 50-75 yards out.  I've never been able to figure it out.

post #42 of 62

Wow - This range is my problem area ... Just picked up a 64* wedge and plan on playing that between the ranges listed. Max's out @ 75-80 yards, stops on a dime & for the 1st time I get back spin.

 

Like most people said, it definitely ranges on conditions ... Can I pitch the ball & run it up close from 50 yards? Are there hazards? I don't worry too much about pin position due to my ability level at this point - I almost always aim for middle of the green.

 

 

Rob 

post #43 of 62

Here are some rough stats for my full swing lob wedge (as full as I make it with this club anyways) 60 degree wedge 7 degree bounce hit from a flat lie on 1" thick grass:

 

Ball set back in my stance by 2 balls: 80 yards +/- 3 yards

Ball centered: 70 yards

Ball set forward in my stance by 3 balls (almost at my lead foot instep): 60 yards

 

I can reduce any of the yardages by choking up on the club by an inch. This shaves off about 5 yards from each distance on the lob wedge.

 

If I need 30 to 50 yards, I do the same thing with the ball setup, but use a half swing (A6 to A8 positions), and I lock my wrist.

 

Closer than 40 yards is usually a chip anyway, since I don't want to risk an errant blade.

 

The 52 degree is pretty much the same, but up to about 105 yards.

 

Pretty happy about the swing changes that made this possible.

post #44 of 62

PW and feel.  I can work it based of the green conditions and angle of attack.  I am working on the AW, SW, and LW, but not comfortable as I'm trying to break this next scoring barrier.

post #45 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by straightslice View Post

PW and feel.  I can work it based of the green conditions and angle of attack.  I am working on the AW, SW, and LW, but not comfortable as I'm trying to break this next scoring barrier.

I believe that learning my quarter- and half-swing distances with my wedges was a big reason I dropped my handicap below 20, and after I learned them, I wish I had done so almost from the beginning. These are easy (relatively) swings (especially the quarter ones) to learn and take very little time to maintain, and once you know the distances, it's like having an extra 3-6 clubs in your bag.

I'd like to encourage you to learn these. Either way, I wish you the best in breaking the next scoring barrier.
post #46 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shindig View Post


I believe that learning my quarter- and half-swing distances with my wedges was a big reason I dropped my handicap below 20, and after I learned them, I wish I had done so almost from the beginning. These are easy (relatively) swings (especially the quarter ones) to learn and take very little time to maintain, and once you know the distances, it's like having an extra 3-6 clubs in your bag.

I'd like to encourage you to learn these. Either way, I wish you the best in breaking the next scoring barrier.

Agreed.  I'm working on the 1/4 and 1/2 swings withe wedges.  I'm not comfortable with the PW and use choke down for in between.  I haven't been as comfortable with the higher lofted wedges.  Still working on it though.  

post #47 of 62
Thread Starter 

Had a lot of success with this after (of all things) a michael breed spot on wedge control.  After some trial and error, I've found that my 54* with a half swing (arms to parallel) is perfect for 60 to 70 yds, as long as I use Breeds idea of not letting the toe release through impact. Contact with the ground is almost entirely with the bounce of the club, leaves almost not divot, and lands soft.  Can add take a bit more off by choking down an inch or so.  When I want to get full distance out of the 54*, I make a full swing the same as I do with my irons.  This gives me around 95-100 yards.  With this swing the clubhead releases (leaving a divot showing the toe closed down at the end).  Only problem is everyone once in a while I tend to lose it long and a left, i.e., the ball draws off target.  

 

After this, don't really see a need for the 58*.  Thinking about ditching and adding a 3 driving iron.   

post #48 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundandFury View Post
 

Had a lot of success with this after (of all things) a michael breed spot on wedge control.  After some trial and error, I've found that my 54* with a half swing (arms to parallel) is perfect for 60 to 70 yds, as long as I use Breeds idea of not letting the toe release through impact. Contact with the ground is almost entirely with the bounce of the club, leaves almost not divot, and lands soft.  Can add take a bit more off by choking down an inch or so.  When I want to get full distance out of the 54*, I make a full swing the same as I do with my irons.  This gives me around 95-100 yards.  With this swing the clubhead releases (leaving a divot showing the toe closed down at the end).  Only problem is everyone once in a while I tend to lose it long and a left, i.e., the ball draws off target.  

 

After this, don't really see a need for the 58*.  Thinking about ditching and adding a 3 driving iron.   

 

I lock my wrists on my pitch shots, and it effectively forces me to do this. I wonder if that's why we're supposed to do this?

 

Anyway, back to practicing this shot. . .

post #49 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundandFury View Post
 

... Breeds idea of not letting the toe release through impact. Contact with the ground is almost entirely with the bounce of the club, leaves almost not divot, and lands soft.

This seems counterintuitive to me.  "Not letting the toe release" and ...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lihu View Post
 

I lock my wrists on my pitch shots, and it effectively forces me to do this.

Locking your wrists both sound to me like you guys are trying to keep your wrist angles, or keep your hands ahead of the ball.  This would, IMO, inhibit the bounce from getting to the ground and doing its job and would make it more likely to make contact with the leading edge.  Being wristy in pitch shots, to the point of being a little flippy, is a good thing.

 

Or perhaps I'm imagining the wrong thing when I read those explanations?

post #50 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lihu View Post
 

 

I lock my wrists on my pitch shots, and it effectively forces me to do this. I wonder if that's why we're supposed to do this?

 

Anyway, back to practicing this shot. . .

Yeah, I think it's similar.  I changed my pitching to use the bounce a little while ago and this feels almost the same, except with a bigger swing and much more speed.  Key to this is accelerating hard through the shot.  Any decel and I thump the bounce about 4 inches behind the ball.  Oh, and this only works for me when I set up slightly open, open the face a bit, and focus on not turning my left knuckles down through the shot.  

post #51 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Golfingdad View Post
 

This seems counterintuitive to me.  "Not letting the toe release" and ...

 

Locking your wrists both sound to me like you guys are trying to keep your wrist angles, or keep your hands ahead of the ball.  This would, IMO, inhibit the bounce from getting to the ground and doing its job and would make it more likely to make contact with the leading edge.  Being wristy in pitch shots, to the point of being a little flippy, is a good thing.

 

Or perhaps I'm imagining the wrong thing when I read those explanations?

Let me put it this way: when i hit a 7i, my divot starts square and finishes with the toe clearly ahead of the heel, i.e., the outside of the divot is longer than the inside. when I hit this shot, there is almost no divot, and i can feel the bounce thump the ground as opposed to the ripping of the leading edge through the turf.  

post #52 of 62

I'll use anything from a 7i to LW depending on the lie, obstacles, pin placement, green speed, etc.

However, I typically favor my 56/60 under optimal circumstances and conditions. They're the two clubs that I'm most comfortable and accurate with.

post #53 of 62
Tremendous question. While I'm decent around the green, I know my approach to this aspect of the game needs work. I exclusively use a 60° wedge from 85 yds and in.

I'd love to add some variety to my game with 9I or pw bumps but I just don't have time to practice these shots so on the very rare occasion I try them, I almost invariably run the ball long.

Sick of my lw biting when I need it to run or running when need it to bite. Oh well, need to practice more...someday I may find the time...
post #54 of 62

It all depends on the conditions and the type of shot I want to play....

 

Under normal conditions it is my LW which falls under my range for this club. If I want to hit it lower into a breeze or cross breeze, then it might be my SW or GW.

 

It is also a SW or GW if I want to control the spin in which case it would be a shorter back swing and cut off the follow through.

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