shaft choices for sl irons
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Hi, I'm new here. I want to build a set of Pinhawk sl irons to seven iron length, but I'm not a regular club maker, so I have some questions. The last thread ichecked had 56 entries, and I still didn't find the info i need. First, since the heads are a six iron design, do I need to add shaft weight to the tips or can I just use heavier shafts? Second, if any of you have built these, what shafts would you recommend? Thanks, guys and gals. Haven't posted much, but I'm an inveterate reader.
Welcome to The Sand Trap! It's nice to see that you converted from a hawk to a contributor!
Unfortunately, I have no idea how to help you because I have never heard of these clubs and I do not know what you mean by "the heads are six iron design". I am sure that somebody can offer you some help/advise though.
The Pinhawk single length irons have been discussed frequently on this forum dating back to 2010. Haven't found any detailed discussion of shafts for them though. By six iron design I mean the lie and headweight (according to their website) is that of a six iron. Since I want to build them to about 37", I was wondering if I should put 7 gram plugs in the shaft tip or use heavier shafts to get the swingweight right.
A lot would depend on what shafts you intend using in them. Constant weight? Ascending or descending in weight?. Either way, I would think Pinhawk heads are identical in weight through the set, otherwise you would end up with variable flex. Therefore, just use tip weights to get your desired swing weight if using a set of constant weight shafts. If you have a variable weight shaft through the set, you have bigger problems to achieve a constant swing weight and flex. You can't have it both ways I guess, but then again I don't really hold any water with the constant length set theory. If there really were any credence to it, then a lot more people (maybe pros included) would be using them. Gimmick perhaps? If they work for you though, then thats all that matters.
As I recall, Pinhawk heads are .370" hosel - this is because parallel tip iron shafts can be tip trimmed to get the desired flex regardless of your desired playing length. Shaft suggestion would be relative to what you like in terms of weight and ball flight - bend point depending on how you load and release the shaft. Without any info about your preference or swing style, it's a complete guess. Anyone can guess, as I'm sure you're aware.
I remember back in '70s or '80s a manufacturer did this, Tigershark or something? Neat idea but it didn't catch on for a reason maybe.
Basically, you are building a pinhawk set a half inch shorter than their standard, correct?
I always start with your swingweight. Golfsmith. Golf works etc. have cheap scales. Measure what you are used to. Adjust if you want a little lighter or heavier, and use that to figure out what you want to do with your clubs. If I recall correctly (but this is why I say get a scale), every half inch in shaft length equals about swing weight points - a D-3 becomes a D-0. Roughly about 2 grams of head weight equals one swingweight point. So you are looking at maybe adding 6 grams of weight to each head. However, before you do that and start changing the clubhead dynamics, you might want to see if you can live with the clubs as they are, slightly lighter swingweight. Sure you can put those 6 grams down the shaft. You could also make up some of that weight with lead tape behind on the clubhead. Keep in mind a shorter shaft typically stiffens the flex.
All that makes me ask, why mess with the 6-iron standard? Does the half inch mean that much to you? Considering how far off the beaten path Pinhawks are to begin with, do want to then continue to go off their path? But that is the fun of doing this stuff. If I were in your shoes, though, I might start with a standard 6-iron set up. Then if you want cut the 1/2 inch, sure go ahead, try them. And lastly, if you need to, then add the weight.
I also read a post from one of the makers (I think it was T Witt) recently (was poted a long time ago) that said to use regular shafts for single length. I'll probably go with a mid kickpoint instead of the high kickpoint of the TT DG shafts. Should help increase the trajectory a bit.
BTW, I love these irons. The "long" irons take a little getting used to. My GIR has inceased. Even when I miss a green, it is on the fringe.
My irons ranged from C7 to D1 before I added any tip weight. I was surprised at the variance of the swingweight since the shaft length is the same and the head weight was supposedly the same. I made them all D1. I made my SW and LW 36" also. I can choke up for shorter shots, but on full shots the longer length is fine.