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Scores improved after playing fade. - Page 2

post #19 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by flopster View Post

Why do they not stop quicker? Unless it's a surface that slopes away from the shot a fade will stop faster by virtue of being hit higher on average.

 

Draws tend to be hit lower, because most players will hit pull-draws, but they don't have to be hit that way at all. I can hit fades low (pull-fades) and draws high (push-draws).

post #20 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by flopster View Post


Why do they not stop quicker? Unless it's a surface that slopes away from the shot a fade will stop faster by virtue of being hit higher on average. In reality a player would be better off with a draw off the tee and a fade for the scoring clubs and I'm not alone with this belief many of the scratch and + hdcp players I play with agree with this. Ultimately the golf course will decide what is the best shot shape by the hole design but on average I would play with that type of strategy if I could, I play a draw with all shots unless there is no other option though.

A draw goes just as high as a fade. Coming from the inside with a slightly open club face gives more than enough loft for a high and soft landing.
post #21 of 28
I play a slight draw when I can. There's a couple of holes at my course that I hit fades (water on right). I open my stance 20 degress and swing 15 degrees. Tee it a little lower. Pick a target and follow thru. I tighten my grip with my left hand and it tends to "hang on" and not release like my normal shot. Both drives were down the left side about 280. i purposely hit them lower so they will roll more.

BTW, read how to hit the fade in a Golf magazine article. Works like a charm.
post #22 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbishop15 View Post




A draw goes just as high as a fade. Coming from the inside with a slightly open club face gives more than enough loft for a high and soft landing.


Erik himself says they tend to be higher therefore stop quicker, I'm not going to debate that a draw can be hit high also because it can but purely on overall tendencies of amateur players I would say the fade is a shot that can be stopped quicker.

post #23 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by flopster View Post
 


Erik himself says they tend to be higher therefore stop quicker, I'm not going to debate that a draw can be hit high also because it can but purely on overall tendencies of amateur players I would say the fade is a shot that can be stopped quicker.


I typically hit more draws than fades, typically have a higher than average ball flight, and typically don't have trouble stopping the ball.

 

But, if there was some kind of contest where we had to hit one of the longer clubs and whoever stopped the ball closest to the pitch mark wins the contest I'm definitely hitting a fade.

post #24 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by flopster View Post
 

Erik himself says they tend to be higher therefore stop quicker, I'm not going to debate that a draw can be hit high also because it can but purely on overall tendencies of amateur players I would say the fade is a shot that can be stopped quicker.

 

Let's not put words in my mouth when possible… :D I'm not saying you are, but let me clarify:

 

Any version of a pull tends to go lower than any version of a fade.

 

So you have two kinds of shots:

 

A1) Push-fade

A2) Pull-draw

 

B1) Pull-fade

B2) Push-draw

 

Then in between those you have people who will pull-fade and pull-draw things, and others who will push-fade and push-draw things. The last group is probably the rarest.

 

Most amateurs are closest to the third group, the pull-everything group, so their fades do stop faster because the numbers look like this:

 

Pull-fade: Path -6, face -3.

Pull-draw: Path -3, face -6.

 

The face pointing farther left reduces loft, which reduces spin loft, resulting in lower ball flight (less delivered loft) with less spin (lower spin loft).

 

But, it's ​perfectly understandable how a push-draw or even a straight-draw can be hit higher and stop faster than a pull-anything, even a fade.

post #25 of 28
With today's equipment I hit dead straight and no curve . A few decades back the ball would go wild . Not trying to sound cocky but my miss and good one is straight
post #26 of 28
Thread Starter 

Thanks everyone I should have clarified I was speaking of driver only I am able to draw my woods and irons successfully but struggle to do so consistently with driver and most attempts result in a nasty hook ob or in the trees. Now my strategy is when I have to hit a draw off the tee I hit hybrid or 3 wood depending on the length of the hole. I am not going to try and hit a draw with the driver anymore.

post #27 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by whorippedit View Post

With today's equipment I hit dead straight and no curve . A few decades back the ball would go wild . Not trying to sound cocky but my miss and good one is straight

 

Not sure if you're joking but even the best players in the world curve it, it may only be 3-5 yards but they all have a pattern.

post #28 of 28
Mike, don't give up on trying to draw the ball. Work it out on the range. When I snap off a hook, it seems it comes from releasing too early and griping too tight at impact. BTW, I had the best drive on the last hole today that I've hit in quite a while. Yes, it was a draw. :)
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