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Stronger epoxy? Shaft twisting inside adapter.


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I have 2 House of Forged shafts for my long drive driver and each has their own adapter for my x2hot head.  The first time I had the adapters installed was by a local club maker. I allowed 24hrs cure time and both shafts twisted within 10balls. Later that night I was able to pull both shafts out of the adapters by hand.  I took them down to golfsmith and we determined the first guy did not have the shafts seated all the way into the adapters. I let golfsmith do the install and everything seemed fine and he assured me they were all the way in and sturdy. Last night I had a shaft turn on me again and the other has developed a rattle. I only have about 100 hits on each shaft including one competition. Any thing specifically to look at or a stronger epoxy to suggest? I find it hard to believe this is common in the long driving community.

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Weird the only time I've ever had that happen I later found the guy that assembled the club used freakin' silicone. But it twisted on the first hit.

Dave :-)

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Weird the only time I've ever had that happen I later found the guy that assembled the club used freakin' silicone. But it twisted on the first hit.

That doesn't sound like your club maker. Did one of the check out clerks fix your club because you were in a hurry or something? :-\

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That doesn't sound like your club maker. Did one of the check out clerks fix your club because you were in a hurry or something?


No it was an ebay deal, component head. I asked if he could assemble it because he also had the shaft I needed. He offered it on his other listings so I figured why not. But he didn't do anything I asked so after the head came off I rebuilt it myself. Needless to say he got bad feedback. Crazy thing is this seller is listed as a distributor for a few well known component companies, House Of Forged being one.

Dave :-)

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I'm afraid to ask. But this "long drive community" SMURF is a part of,  What is your swing speed? 180 MPH?

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Weird the only time I've ever had that happen I later found the guy that assembled the club used freakin' silicone. But it twisted on the first hit.


LOL I had to laugh when I read it.

Rich C.

Driver Titleist 915 D3  9.5*
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LOL I had to laugh when I read it.


I laughed when I saw it, total WTF. Funny thing was they put me on their list of blocked buyers. As if I'd buy something from them again. I think they just tossed it together to get it in the mail because I was asking why I hadn't received it 3 weeks after buying it. I asked for it to be 42.5" with 10g tip weight and I paid for an Avon Chamois grip. It arrives 43" with a different grip and from the first practice swing it didn't feel right, I assume because besides the silicone not building it to my specs had it a C8. I was surprised the head didn't fly off down the fairway though it was just barely on the last 1/4" or so of bare shaft. But yeah rubbery silicone was all that was in there.

Dave :-)

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I have 2 House of Forged shafts for my long drive driver and each has their own adapter for my x2hot head.  The first time I had the adapters installed was by a local club maker. I allowed 24hrs cure time and both shafts twisted within 10balls. Later that night I was able to pull both shafts out of the adapters by hand.  I took them down to golfsmith and we determined the first guy did not have the shafts seated all the way into the adapters. I let golfsmith do the install and everything seemed fine and he assured me they were all the way in and sturdy. Last night I had a shaft turn on me again and the other has developed a rattle. I only have about 100 hits on each shaft including one competition. Any thing specifically to look at or a stronger epoxy to suggest? I find it hard to believe this is common in the long driving community.

I had someone at Dick's put a steel shaft on my drivers. Three times they twisted off.

The reason was that there is a coating on the brass which needs to be taken off. Lightly sand it to remove the layer, then apply the adhesive. It's not the epoxy that is failing but the coating the epoxy is sticking to.

Not sure if you are running into the same situation, but light sanding fixed mine.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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I'm afraid to ask. But this "long drive community" SMURF is a part of,  What is your swing speed? 180 MPH?

I don't know what my swing speed is with my long drive club but I'm sure it's on the low end for the sport. To be competitive at the highest level you need to be in the upper 140's. I have qualified for regionals with a drop and stop 328yd hit into the wind.

I had someone at Dick's put a steel shaft on my drivers. Three times they twisted off.

The reason was that there is a coating on the brass which needs to be taken off. Lightly sand it to remove the layer, then apply the adhesive. It's not the epoxy that is failing but the coating the epoxy is sticking to.

Not sure if you are running into the same situation, but light sanding fixed mine.

The paint on the shaft has been removed but I'm not sure if anything has been sanded inside of the adapter. I'll try to find out when I get them back.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Welp, got the two shafts fixed... I thought. One came back cross threaded so it couldn't be used and the other came back miss aligned with its puring.  Took the cross threaded one to a different Golfsmith with an extra adapter I had. Got it all fixed up and waited a week to try it. 10 balls hit with it and it twisted again. Not sure what to do at this point. There is a Golf Etc near that I might try but I'm starting to wonder if it is a smithing error or a design flaw. I wish I had just bought a Krank driver instead of this X2 Hot.

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Welp, got the two shafts fixed... I thought. One came back cross threaded so it couldn't be used and the other came back miss aligned with its puring.  Took the cross threaded one to a different Golfsmith with an extra adapter I had. Got it all fixed up and waited a week to try it. 10 balls hit with it and it twisted again. Not sure what to do at this point. There is a Golf Etc near that I might try but I'm starting to wonder if it is a smithing error or a design flaw. I wish I had just bought a Krank driver instead of this X2 Hot.

Wow, you are really having issues with the epoxy.

What is the exact size of the X2 Hot hosel? Is it a 0.335T or straight 0.335?

You said you swing somewhere between 125mph-135mph?

Do long drive drivers have larger diameter hosels? I am looking at Krank and they do look a bit more stout, but hard to tell from a picture.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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Wow, you are really having issues with the epoxy.

What is the exact size of the X2 Hot hosel? Is it a 0.335T or straight 0.335?

You said you swing somewhere between 125mph-135mph?

Do long drive drivers have larger diameter hosels? I am looking at Krank and they do look a bit more stout, but hard to tell from a picture.


As far as I have found on the net it is a straight .335 and yes, I would put my swing speed in the 130's, which we know is on the slow side for the long drive sport.  I'm not sure about the size of other long drive drivers as this is the first one I've ever owned. I think Joe Miller and Jamie Sadlowski use this X2 Hot long drive version so they must be getting something done right.

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The long drive guys might be getting shafts that don't need adapters.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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The long drive types I see don't use adjustable drivers.


Yeah, going from 4 degrees to 5 degrees in 6 steps is kind of tough.

However, I think the OP meant a shim and not an adapter.

EDIT: Bad assumption on my part. I thought he was using shims.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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I didn't read through this, but 1st..... Lihu, there is no such thing as .335t. It is .335P. Do it yourself next time. Quit letting amateurs f*ck with your clubs. Is it an adapter or is it shimmed? Buy some Golfworks beaded epoxy and get on with it!

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-Landon

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I didn't read through this, but 1st.....

Lihu, there is no such thing as .335t. It is .335P.

Do it yourself next time. Quit letting amateurs f*ck with your clubs. Is it an adapter or is it shimmed? Buy some Golfworks beaded epoxy and get on with it!

I've had good success with Golfsmith with standard clubs, so it surprises me that they did not use an appropriate epoxy.

Yeah, I didn't know if there is a custom 0.335 shaft or not from "House of Forged" or not. Thanks for the definitive answer.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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I've had good success with Golfsmith with standard clubs, so it surprises me that they did not use an appropriate epoxy. Yeah, I didn't know if there is a custom 0.335 shaft or not from "House of Forged" or not. Thanks for the definitive answer.

Has nothing to do with "custom". There is no such thing as a tapered tip .335 wood shaft. It's either .350 PARALLEL or .335 PARALLEL and unless I'm mistaken, HOF doesn't make one in .350.

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon

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Note: This thread is 3590 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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