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Cobra Amp Cell adjustable sleeve

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Has anyone reshafted an Amp Cell driver? If so, any tips on removing the sleeve? I was thinking about using a micro torch to heat the sleeve, rather than using the standard torch.

Also, had anyone purchased an additional sleeve and if so, from where? Some sleeves come from China and I don't want to see the head of my driver splashing down in a lake.

Any help appreciated.
post #2 of 12

I ordered mine right off of cobra's website in the accessories section for 28 bucks apiece.  If I was going to try and remove one I would use a heat gun to do it but my suggestion would be to just order one from Cobra.

post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
The Cobra site only lists the newest Bio Cell adapter. Disappointing that I purchased the driver less than a year ago and they don't bother to list it. I have an inquiry in to their support dept.

I don't have a heat gun. It would make a good addition to my equipment, but would like to avoid buying one. Almost certainly outrageous expensive here in Japn. I sure won't order it through Golf5, the major golf store here. They wanted about $40/dozen for some standard .350" ferrules?!?!?
post #4 of 12

Ebay will have it. Could probably find the shaft you want from a seller that also sells adapters.

 

 

Yep just looked, lots of them on eBay.

post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Yep, checked eBay. And those Sellers often don't ship to Japan or the rates are based on eBay's database are are crazy expensive. There are some from Chiba, but one had feedback that said it broke almost immediately. Don't want even the CHANCE of that happening.

Billy Bob's golf has them for $28 plus $8 shipping.

But what I really wanted to know is if anyone had removed the adapter with a torch. I have a mini torch that takes quite a while to heat the hosel enough to release the shaft and wanted to know if I could remove it without damaging the adapter.
post #6 of 12
A micro torch will work just fine (keep the heat moving), but I would leave the driver assembled and pull the shaft like a regular epoxied club. I've re-used and reshafted MANY adjustable drivers and this is the way I do it.
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
Well, screw my courage to the sticking place and.......

The tip about leaving the head on is interesting. Any reason you do that?
post #8 of 12
Because if you directly heat the adapter the finish on the adapter will rub off.
post #9 of 12

A heat gun is cheap enough, less than the cost of an adapter plus shipping. I've melted ferrules with a gun a low. A torch on plastic is asking for trouble, double it for not having a shaft puller. Especially if you haven't done this before.

post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
I have a club head extractor. Used it once on an old iron. The key seems to be to heat it a bit, screw up some tension and then watch for movement, at which time start cranking. And having used the torch on irons, some ferrules are more prone to flaming than others. In general I just start at the base of the hosel, giving the heat time to soften the ferrule, then cut it off.

As for shipping one here, the postal rates gave, well, gone postal. GolfSmith uses USPS and is able offer the best rates, but their online system is WAY OFF when estimating weights. They seem to know this, because when I call them up they are ready to knock down the weights to whatever my estimate is. There is a big difference in shipping between a 43 lb package and a 71 lb package. But there are minimum weights that seem to exist.

Maybe I should bite the bullet and just get one. No adapter needed. There's only a difference of 10V and although it won't get quite as hot, I doubt that it would be unusable without one.

Billy Bob's Golf has the adapter and some collared ferrules I have been looking for, and the shipping costs were only $8 for the adapter (some places want 40?). Maybe I'll order a heat gun too if the shipping costs stay low.
post #11 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave2512 View Post

A heat gun is cheap enough, less than the cost of an adapter plus shipping. I've melted ferrules with a gun a low. A torch on plastic is asking for trouble, double it for not having a shaft puller. Especially if you haven't done this before.

You're gonna loose the plastic ferrule anyway. It'll have to be replaced. I've done enough of these to know what I'm talking about. I never knew he didn't have a puller. I must've missed that part. I use a hydraulic puller.
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LBlack14 View Post

You're gonna loose the plastic ferrule anyway. It'll have to be replaced. I've done enough of these to know what I'm talking about. I never knew he didn't have a puller. I must've missed that part. I use a hydraulic puller.

No, you didn't miss it, you just added a relevant point to a post made by someone who obviously hadn't done it before.

After some thought, I think because the ferrule will have to be replaced and that unlike irons, there is a big advantage to using the proper collared ferrule, I am just goingbto do it right and order the ZOEM ferrule from Cobra. A rep from Cobra must have seen the thread and said he could provide one, though it can't be sent directly to Japan. I'd like to play with the new shaft soon, but by going this route, I will have two shafts.

Everyone has been great, thanks for the info.
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