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Maltby Irons


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Thinking about putting together a set of irons with some heads from Maltby (golfworks). Does anyone here have experience with them? I am specifically looking into the Maltby TE forged irons.

Also if you have any other component companies that around the same price as the golfworks stuff that would be appreciated too.

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I've used GolfWorks clubs for years now. Currently, I have a KE4 V Driver, ST-F 3 Wood, and KE4 SS1 irons in my bag. Always been good quality stuff.

Driver - Cobra Amp Cell/Maltby KE4 V 10.5

FW - Maltby KE4 ST-F 3W

Hybrids - Cobra T-Rail+ 3H and 4H

Irons - Maltby KE4 SS1 4-GW

SW - Cleveland CG16 56*

Putter - Nike Method Core MC02W/Bobby Grace AMG Triumph

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Dwade, I have played the TE irons for a year and a half now and I am a big fan. I had always been a Mizuno iron player but I have to say I love the TE irons and they are very affordable. I really like the minimal .100 offset that is consistent throughout the set. I purchased the 4-GW. They have a nice thin top line, clean shape, and they are very forgiving compared to the MP62s I was playing. I also play the Maltby tour Grind wedges switching from Cleveland wedges that I have played forever.

In The Bag
Wishon 919 Driver 9.5
Wishon 4W 16.5
Wishon  21 degree hybrid
Sterling SL 6 - SW
Seemore CS FGP

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Dwade,

I have played the TE irons for a year and a half now and I am a big fan. I had always been a Mizuno iron player but I have to say I love the TE irons and they are very affordable. I really like the minimal .100 offset that is consistent throughout the set. I purchased the 4-GW. They have a nice thin top line, clean shape, and they are very forgiving compared to the MP62s I was playing. I also play the Maltby tour Grind wedges switching from Cleveland wedges that I have played forever.


Thanks for the response. I have used a few mizuno and titleist iron sets but I have been wanting my first set of new golf irons and with my expensive taste for forged blades I had to look for a cheaper alternative to the big names. I wanted to buy from a respected company that wasn't a clone company. I thought that the Maltby irons looked as original as a forged cb could and have been excited about building a set with them. I have also heard that they are pretty forgiving for a forged cb which is good because honestly I have no business playing players irons, but I don't really have any business playing any irons lol. Glad to hear a positive review from someone who has a good amount of experience with them.

What shafts did you use with them?

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Thanks for the response. I have used a few mizuno and titleist iron sets but I have been wanting my first set of new golf irons and with my expensive taste for forged blades I had to look for a cheaper alternative to the big names. I wanted to buy from a respected company that wasn't a clone company. I thought that the Maltby irons looked as original as a forged cb could and have been excited about building a set with them. I have also heard that they are pretty forgiving for a forged cb which is good because honestly I have no business playing players irons, but I don't really have any business playing any irons lol. Glad to hear a positive review from someone who has a good amount of experience with them.

What shafts did you use with them?

I have always played True Temper S300 in the past.  I ordered this set with the True Temper Dynalite Gold SL w/sensicore in the X100 and have been very pleased with them.  They were on sale at the time, I think I was around $340 all in on the set, a great deal overall.  I have had many others hit the irons at the range and they have been very impressed with the feel of the irons.  Go for it, you will not be disappointed.  If you are a higher handicap golfer, you may want more offset in your lower irons and may want to consider one of the other sets they offer with more offset.

FYI, if you are trying to save some bucks, prior to ordering the set I am playing with I had played with a set with the FST Pro 115 shafts and thought they were pretty nice.  On iron shafts, I am of the belief that the shaft (other than length and weight), will make little difference in the overall performance.  (see youtube Mark Crossfield Golf Shaft Flex Lesson 3).   JMO

In The Bag
Wishon 919 Driver 9.5
Wishon 4W 16.5
Wishon  21 degree hybrid
Sterling SL 6 - SW
Seemore CS FGP

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GolfWorks has a lot going for it. My class got a tour of their facility at the 2012 clubmaking school I attended.

Besides the Maltby line golf club heads, GW is the largest distributor of golf grips, and a major distributor of shafts and repair equipment to golfdom. If you have even a small account with them, you get:

  • access to a very broad range of components
  • access to GW employees who are very knowledgeable about the golf equipment supply chain
  • frequent discounts for various components

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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I have always played True Temper S300 in the past.  I ordered this set with the True Temper Dynalite Gold SL w/sensicore in the X100 and have been very pleased with them.  They were on sale at the time, I think I was around $340 all in on the set, a great deal overall.  I have had many others hit the irons at the range and they have been very impressed with the feel of the irons.  Go for it, you will not be disappointed.  If you are a higher handicap golfer, you may want more offset in your lower irons and may want to consider one of the other sets they offer with more offset.

FYI, if you are trying to save some bucks, prior to ordering the set I am playing with I had played with a set with the FST Pro 115 shafts and thought they were pretty nice.  On iron shafts, I am of the belief that the shaft (other than length and weight), will make little difference in the overall performance.  (see youtube Mark Crossfield Golf Shaft Flex Lesson 3).   JMO

First of all thank WUtiger for the info on the maltby and GW companies. Good to here they are respected.

Kensti

I love mark's videos, especially his thoughts on shafts. I had a guy give me a really quick sort of fitting at the pga superstore yesterday and he said I was righ in between the regular and stiff shafts. He suggested the TT XP95 in R because it gave me a little bit of a draw while the ProjectX 5.5 gave me a little fade. I am not really sold on his evaluation since I actually felt better with the project x and my dispersion was actually tighter even though it was a little right. I have also thought about going with the FST shafts, pro or non-pro but I don't think the pga store has those and I have $150 in gift cards to the pga store. So I was thinking about buying the shafts and grips there and having them t the clubs together. Although I suppose I could use he gift cards on a new 3 wood lol.

Did you have any issues going to a stiffer shaft? Do you know what your SS is with a 7/6 iron?

My 7/6 iron SS is about 85-90 with a fairly quick transfer. Anyone have shaft suggestions based off that?

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First of all thank WUtiger for the info on the maltby and GW companies. Good to here they are respected. Kensti I love mark's videos, especially his thoughts on shafts. I had a guy give me a really quick sort of fitting at the pga superstore yesterday and he said I was righ in between the regular and stiff shafts. He suggested the TT XP95 in R because it gave me a little bit of a draw while the ProjectX 5.5 gave me a little fade. I am not really sold on his evaluation since I actually felt better with the project x and my dispersion was actually tighter even though it was a little right. I have also thought about going with the FST shafts, pro or non-pro but I don't think the pga store has those and I have $150 in gift cards to the pga store. So I was thinking about buying the shafts and grips there and having them t the clubs together. Although I suppose I could use he gift cards on a new 3 wood lol. Did you have any issues going to a stiffer shaft? Do you know what your SS is with a 7/6 iron? My 7/6 iron SS is about 85-90 with a fairly quick transfer. Anyone have shaft suggestions based off that?

My swing speed with a 6 iron is usually around 87. I usually hit 6 iron 175-180. I used to be my 190 club but I am really working on 80% swings and it has been helping me with accuracy. My driver swing speed is 100-105. I know my stats would point me to a x100 shaft but frankly, I have not noticed any difference. Your results may vary, but I still think length, swing weight and feel are more important.

In The Bag
Wishon 919 Driver 9.5
Wishon 4W 16.5
Wishon  21 degree hybrid
Sterling SL 6 - SW
Seemore CS FGP

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I hit a couple of Cleveland 588 cbs today with both DG s300 and r300. I seemed to hit them both about the same so I'm leaning towards the DG S300 because I don't think there is a more respected shaft at such a reasonable price and I think stiff will be more consistent especially if I can increase my SS at all.

Kenstl

How thick are the soles on the TEs? I can't find a good picture of them anywhere but it looks like they may be a little thicker. Can you compare them to any other club from a major OEM or a blade? Would you be willing to post any pictures of your TEs? - Thanks

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I hit a couple of Cleveland 588 cbs today with both DG s300 and r300. I seemed to hit them both about the same so I'm leaning towards the DG S300 because I don't think there is a more respected shaft at such a reasonable price and I think stiff will be more consistent especially if I can increase my SS at all.

Kenstl

How thick are the soles on the TEs? I can't find a good picture of them anywhere but it looks like they may be a little thicker. Can you compare them to any other club from a major OEM or a blade? Would you be willing to post any pictures of your TEs? - Thanks

The sole of the club is a little larger that a lot of the blades on the market, but I do not notice it all from the top side of the clubs.  That being said, they are not as large as what you would see on player improvement clubs.  I'll take a couple of pictures and post them for you.

In The Bag
Wishon 919 Driver 9.5
Wishon 4W 16.5
Wishon  21 degree hybrid
Sterling SL 6 - SW
Seemore CS FGP

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The sole of the club is a little larger that a lot of the blades on the market, but I do not notice it all from the top side of the clubs.  That being said, they are not as large as what you would see on player improvement clubs.  I'll take a couple of pictures and post them for you.

Thank you very much. Very interested in the pictures!

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I currently bag the TE with the Score Lite shafts. Very easy to play. Great look at adress. I also played the MMB but they were just too long and odd looking to pass as a true blade so I sold them. IMO the TE are much more forgiving than any MP I've played and for less than $260 shipped brand new for a set it's a no brainer.
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I currently bag the TE with the Score Lite shafts. Very easy to play. Great look at adress. I also played the MMB but they were just too long and odd looking to pass as a true blade so I sold them. IMO the TE are much more forgiving than any MP I've played and for less than $260 shipped brand new for a set it's a no brainer.

Thanks for the info. What do you think about the sole thickness?

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Thanks for the info. What do you think about the sole thickness?

It's def not a traditional cut muscle in terms of thickness. But it will dig if you want it to. The sole width is .781. I have no probs sweeping or digging. I can't find the specs on the MP 60 I'm holding side by side right now but the TE is def a a rate thicker

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It's def not a traditional cut muscle in terms of thickness. But it will dig if you want it to. The sole width is .781. I have no probs sweeping or digging. I can't find the specs on the MP 60 I'm holding side by side right now but the TE is def a a rate thicker

WOW! That is great! I can't find any specs about sole width of any big OEMs so I couldn't really tell what .781" really looked like. But there is very little there and those soles are definitely thin enough for me. Thank you so much for the pic! You bag the TEs over the MP60s? If so, what led to that choice?

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WOW! That is great! I can't find any specs about sole width of any big OEMs so I couldn't really tell what .781" really looked like. But there is very little there and those soles are definitely thin enough for me. Thank you so much for the pic! You bag the TEs over the MP60s? If so, what led to that choice?

I have an Mp60 (5-6) MP32 (7-pw) combo. I used to play a full set if MP37 as well. To me the Maltby are so much more forgiving although they aren't as buttery. However they are buttery enough on solid strikes to satisfy me. I also play a set of Nike Vrs forged which are the easiest to hit and are absolute monsters. However they are much much thicker. I really don't mind that however. I like to mess around with any and all forged irons. I guess to answer your question I am playing the TE more just because they are my new toy. There still isn't a club that matches any Mizuno MP in terms of feel.

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I should note that I was playing super game improvement clubs last season. I said eff it and jumped into blades. It made me dedicate myself to fix my horrid OTT swing in a hurry. I couldn't even get the ball off the ground but 10% of the time. I went from shooting high 90 and low 100 to shooting high 80 consistently. I will break 80 soon with no doubt in my mind. It's the putting that's hurting me right now. So a lesson to all those that say fix your swing before getting player blades, I did it and I don't think I could have if I kept playoff my SGI clubs.
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I should note that I was playing super game improvement clubs last season. I said eff it and jumped into blades. It made me dedicate myself to fix my horrid OTT swing in a hurry. I couldn't even get the ball off the ground but 10% of the time. I went from shooting high 90 and low 100 to shooting high 80 consistently. I will break 80 soon with no doubt in my mind. It's the putting that's hurting me right now.

So a lesson to all those that say fix your swing before getting player blades, I did it and I don't think I could have if I kept playoff my SGI clubs.

I feel ya man. I am currently gaming Titleist 690.mb irons. I have gamed them all season and my scores dropped from the low 100s to an average of around 90 with my lowest score being and 84 although I did shoot a 41 but only played 9 holes that day. You don't need to be good to play blades. My irons are the best part of my game with my driver being the deciding factor most days and the fact that 2 putts are all I hope for. However a little bit of forgiveness would be nice. The only reason I am really looking to switch is because I want to treat myself to brand new irons but with my expensive taste for forged irons I had to look for a cheaper alternative to the big OEMs.

I like the buttery smooth feeling of a pured mizzy (always mess around with the mp4 demo at the pga store) but honestly any pured shot feels good to me no matter what club. I mostly prefer forged irons for the solid feel of one piece of metal rather than the feeling of a thin face and plastic. Hopefully some day I can purchase a new set of mizzys.

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Note: This thread is 3494 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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