Shaft question

I know that switching from a ProLaunch Red regular to a Proforce V2 X-stiff greatly increased my consistency, but I can't be certain that the flex alone made the difference (since I switched shafts as well as flexes). I suspect that at least part of it has to do with the fact that I went from 3* of torque in a shaft down to 1.8*, which is a fairly large change. The Profroce also has a heavier weigh, not to mention the fact that it was two full flexes stiffer than the ProLaunch (assuming their stiffness is measured on a similar scale).

What I'm trying to say is that you will only find out by trying out a bunch of different shafts while getting fit for a driver. If your driver head is one that swaps shafts easily (with just a screw), then bring it in and test directly with your driver.

If they have a fitting rack they usually have a few different shafts. They'll have the common stuff, nothing too exotic. There's torque, kick point, flex, and weight and some claim spin rate. Changes in the weight of the shaft will affect the club's swing weight. So many factors, so many choices. Some shafts cost as much as a new club. Some are $50.

I'll second bringing your driver in.

I, too, endorse getting fit. However, I have both stiff and regular shafted drivers in my basement and play both. I picked up a good brand name driver on eBay for less than $100 and have not been disappointed.

Changing a shaft is something that I would look at doing after you've started to make consistent contact in that you know you'll hit the ball solidly on most given shots to allow for a good data set to be created for comparison. If the contact is causing the inconsistencies, then a shaft likely won't fix it.

Playing either shafts has the potential for becoming consistent when the skill level and ability to produce the proper technique using various clubs under most circumstances.

As a new player, you would probably benefit learning and acquire the feel of the

regular stiffness to play certain shots.

I suggest a practice of hitting the 3-wood with the ball placement above, below and level to your feet.

When practicing, try to hit a variety of shapes, high/low draws, fades and straight shots.

One will feel natural and be easier.

Now with a stiffer shaft, try these same drills. One again will be easier and seem natural, but may be more difficult and

the shots will be difficult to control. You may either hit more of a hook or slice.

Eventually as your skill level increase's, a stiffer shaft will produce greater distance and less hook/slice shots when hit properly.

Club Rat

And different shaft manufacturers define their stiffness differently. There is no standard. Go to someone who knows what they're doing. Get fit. But make sure your swing is consistent. Changing a shaft isn't cheap.

For me a stiffer shaft lowered my dispersion a bit.  I did lose a little distance though.  I do not swing very fast though.  Probably 90-95.

For me I believe the torque of a shaft makes the most difference. The Proforce V2 Tour is a very low torque shaft (only 1.8* in the flex I had in my G10), whereas the Ping Tour 65 shaft is a much higher torque shaft compared to that (at least based on feel alone) in my new G30. The new shaft has been much more inconsistent for me (but better than the stock Ping shaft), hence the reason I'm asking for another of my old shaft (or maybe a Bi-Matrix in lime green, if it works for Bubba...) for Christmas. At the very least, it would give me the peace of mind in that I have something that I know works for me in my club.

I wasted a season playing the RBZ 3W.HL (17*) and 7W. The stock RBZ had a 45 gram shaft that was just too light for a lot of people - including me -  and had a draw bias. Basically, every fourth shot was a screaming hook miss.

And, the head was a bit top-heavy: I hit it pretty well off the tee or out of the light rough (with a slight grass cushion below the ball), but never had much luck off the fairway.

Next year's RBZ Stage 2 had a 60-gram stock shaft, and a bit lower profile (shallower face). I hit it more reliably. If you like the Stage2, you could probably get one for about $120, about the same price as a new shaft + installation.

I went with a Tour Edge XRail 4W and 7W since then, have fared quite well.

You might also take a tip from Golf Digest and try out a 4W. Tests on golf club found the average golfer can hit a 4W more reliably - and sometimes farther - than a 3W. The extra couple degrees of loft really help out on the launch (that "loft up" thing), getting the ball up higher and increasing carry distance.

As others have said, check out FWs with a fitter to get the right (shaft + head) combination.

(If you're interested in shaft selection tools, you might read up on this one from Ralph Maltby: http://www.ralphmaltby.com/265 . It will give you a hint as to what "shaft band" might work for you.)

Besides what was suggested earlier, heavier and stiffer shaft etc, as a baseball player you also need to concentrate on your swing. Golf swing mechanics are similar but indeed different than BB so mentally you need to adjust for these changes. For example lagging off the BB swing a bit and concentrate on hitting the golf ball over 2nd base, rather than powering it between the bags and shortstop. You might be laughing right now but your BB swing has that RH ( assuming you are right handed) turning over the top very quickly- this often is muscle memory from years of BB. This getting too quick with the right hand can effect even the more seasoned golfers. In BASEBALL, this action of rolling the top hand as well as forearm, accelerates the bat speed for more power. Also keep your hands soft when swinging a fairway wood or hybrid/long iron let the club do the work.  Buy some alignment rods and hit the range, or have a pro take a look at your set up,alignment, grip & swing ( take away too.).

Of the 1000 and 1000s of club fitting and lessons given. Without even seeing your swing, I would be more than willing to bet its alignment, take away and tempo.