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so currently I have cobra amp cell irons which are very nice but I hit them really high. I shoot high 70s to low 80s. I can somewhat work the ball but am mainly a straight iron hitter. So my concern is that with these irons I cant control the trajectory like I would like to. Would "better players irons" help with that? I'm not talking blades but maybe Nike vapor pro combos? Thanks
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The standard steel shaft in the Amp Cells are for high ball trajectory. I'm assuming you got the steel shafted ones. This is what most stores will stock off the shelf.

Different shafts will have different kick points. Many off the shelf stuff will have low kick points (high launch) unless they're stiff.

So you have two ways to go - get refit with new irons. Or try a new shaft in a club see how you like it.

Remember this: there are people out there who know what you want. they know they don't have it so they'll sell you what you don't need.

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

Spoiler

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

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Did you get fitted for the Amp Cells?

You might get on a launch monitor and see what the numbers say. You say you "...hit them really high." I'm not sure what this means in measurements. Also, what is your shaft and what is your clubhead speed with that shaft?

Shaft profile (flex, kickpoint and weight), your swing set-up, the ball you play...these could all lead to a high trajectory, if it is indeed overly high.

As for varying shot trajectory, this will take extra practice work to make it worthwhile. What specifically would you like to be able to do on trajectory that you can't do now? Remember, higher launch helps the average golfer increase distance - up to a point.

You can lower trajectory by playing a ball back in the stance slightly, or by taking an extra club and not hitting it quite so hard. The harder you hit an iron shot, the more backspin you create (assuming solid hit), and the higher the ball will rise.

As for "working the ball," you can hit a basic draw or fade with almost any iron - as long as you know how a golf swing works. You mentioned being a straight iron hitter - if it works go with it.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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TruTemper Dynalite 90 is the standard shaft for the Amp Cell Irons unless he got graphite.

And yes as @WUTiger says your swing, and other factors can influence ball flight. I tend to forward press, and glide with a small divot after the ball, and hit a more penetrating shot. This habit while fine on irons, kills me if I go through that little motion on my driver swing.

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

Spoiler

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

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They're a nice set of clubs. Cobra specs on them are high launch for the stock stiff shaft. They're designed to help you get the ball up off the ground. Your game has probably improved since then and maybe you don't need as much help.

Depending upon how much money you want to spend..... If you want to get a new set of clubs, get refit. Don't rule out Cobra. They've got some nice stuff. Fly-Z irons, Amp Forged, Amp Cell Pros (forged) at prices that won't break the bank.

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

Spoiler

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

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The problem with TT Dynalite 90 Shafts even if they are stiff is twofold: A) Way too light for a lower flight... B) Low Kick Point... True Temper TX-95 and TX-105s are a little heavier though still have a low kick point, I seem to hit a little lower... One other thing I will point out Amp Cells are classified as a Game-Improvement Iron... which means the head has a Very low Center of Gravity... That being said... with a low CG, and low kick point shaft the ball is going to get up in the air... I was in a friend's garage recently, and he has an LM... I hit his SLDR irons and had the same issue... (he plays std length, 1° upright, so it was a bit of a stretch for me to actually hit it), but he has Rocketfuel 85 shafts in his irons... I personally play KBS Tour shafts in my Exotics CU irons, I demoed the CU irons with all 3 stock shafts, the Dynalite 90, KBS Tour and the Fujikura Graphite, all I can say is I hit it with to high of a launch angle with the Dynalite 90 and Fujikura shafts, not looking for the 145 foot apex Jason Day has, mine is around 110 now, and I'd like to get it down to 100... So consider a heavier shaft and keep your Amp Cells, you could easily only spend $200-$300 on heavier shafts with a mid kick point, and that includes regripping... But considering what you shoot (which is around what I shoot), you might be okay with players irons... but be warned, the vapor irons are not cheap

What's in Shane's Bag?     

Ball: 2022 :callaway: Chrome Soft Triple Track Driver: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond 8° MCA Kai’li 70s FW: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond  H: :callaway: Apex Pro 21 20°I (3-PW) :callaway: Apex 21 UST Recoil 95 (3), Recoil 110 (4-PW). Wedges: :callaway: Jaws Raw 50°, 54°, 60° UST Recoil 110 Putter: :odyssey: Tri-Hot 5K Triple Wide 35”

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The problem with TT Dynalite 90 Shafts even if they are stiff is twofold:

A) Way too light for a lower flight...

B) Low Kick Point...

For years, the Dynalite shafts were basically a high-launch version of the Dynamic Golf.

I played with the heavier stiff Dynalites (about 125 grams) in custom-fit component irons from 1994-2008. The first 10 years, I had trouble ballooning short-iron shots on windy days, even though my driver CHS at the time was only about 90 mph.

I'm not seeing Dynalites in the most recent GolfWorks catalog or the True Temper shaft site. Seems the XP95 and XP105 have replaced the Dynalites.

Possibly TT still makes Dynalite variations for some of the OEMs.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Note: This thread is 3354 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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